What is the trickiest part of your first 911 engine rebuild

[cmcfaul]

For me it was cam timing. Every time you tighten the big bolt to the spec tightness it messes with the timing. The crow foot thing does not want to stay on the bolt while applying equal counter pressure to keep the cam from turning.

Chris

73 E

[Drbraunsr]

The Stomski set of specialized tools make some difficult tasks, less so (and a lot more accurate)
Pricey, but after I used one, I no longer had buyers remorse.

[proporsche]

send your engine case to Engine Machine Shop by the LAX...they know their stuff
They can balance all the engine parts,crank ,pistons,rods....plus the valve jobs..i took all my engine pieces there for cleaning and machining

Ivan

[tdskip]

That is more local to me than Ollie’s. That said, Ollie’s were super helpful when I called yesterday.

Thanks for the referral Ivan, will ring them.

What do you think an all-in machining ballpark cost to do a 2.7 right would be, case savers and heads with new pistons and jugs etc?

$4,000 to $6,000?

[Catorce]

Originally Posted by tdskip

That is more local to me than Ollie’s. That said, Ollie’s were super helpful when I called yesterday.

Thanks for the referral Ivan, will ring them.

What do you think an all-in machining ballpark cost to do a 2.7 right would be, case savers and heads with new pistons and jugs etc?

$4,000 to $6,000?

My 2.7 had a bunch of issues and cost me over $7K to machine right at Competition Engineering.

In fact, that was the impetus for starting to build my own cases.

I'd say a decent mag case should be minimum 2-3K to do correctly.

[tdskip]

Originally Posted by Catorce

My 2.7 had a bunch of issues and cost me over $7K to machine right at Competition Engineering.

In fact, that was the impetus for starting to build my own cases.

I'd say a decent mag case should be minimum 2-3K to do correctly.

Thanks, and OUCH.

Figure there is about $1500-2000 in extra cost for it being a 2.7 case over a similar condition 3.0 machine work?

[Alan L]

You could send it out for machine work etc, and then pay to reassemble. But these are time consuming engines - especially from the case up. Labour of love as much as mechanical skill. You will chew a lot of $s up paying to reassemble. That is obviously a route many take tho and having an experienced builder on the job is peace of mind. There are plenty of things that can go wrong - oil leaks at the case end are really frustrating, incorrect alignment of cam sprockets - expensive wear/tear etc etc. The forum is full of jobs that didn't go quite right - first time. But if you feel competent and up for it, with Waynes book and the forum, you can do it. Don't expect things to move quickly, and don't be in a hurry to finish it. Basically do it once.
Regards
Alan

[proporsche]

well..the prices have changed since i was there last time in 2009 then i departed for Europe..Give them a call ....

[tdskip]

Thanks gentlemen

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by tdskip

Thanks Walt. Do I need to buy those tools or can I likely track down loaners in SoCal?

Where would you all recommend sending the heads? Case?

If you're interested in giving me feedback and maybe working with me to refine it, I'm currently working on a design for a plastic block that bolts to your case and holds a carpenters straight edge for checking the cam sprocket parallelization. I'll give you one for free if you help me finish it. Its tested on a 930 case only to date.

Otherwise you'll really need a helper or 3rd hand.

[flightlead404]

There's one other thing that people haven't really addressed here, but bit me in the butt during my rather protracted engine mod process.

Be organized. Very, very, very organized. Especially if you are doing a project like I was where I was interrupted, and there were often weeks I couldn't work on it, and the workshop (hangar in my case) is full of other projects.

I lost an entire weekend looking for my scavenge pump. I put stuff in baggies and marked, but still ended up missing items or having items that were unlabeled. You think you'll remember everything. You won't.

Take lots of pics, and save them off somewhere organized, as you remove, strip, and disassemble the motor and accessories. Hose routing, orientation of brackets, label connectors with a bit of tape, label which relay or connector is which on the wiring harness.

[Catorce]

Originally Posted by tdskip

Thanks, and OUCH.

Figure there is about $1500-2000 in extra cost for it being a 2.7 case over a similar condition 3.0 machine work?

Yes, because the magnesium cases all need flattening, most of the spigots are oblong and not flat, needs case savers, etc etc etc.

I have a mag case 2.7 in my 914-6. Nothing else sounds like it. But it is such a ridiculous financial proposition and it comes with no guarantees that it will remain failure free after a rebuild. It's just a crap place to start a build, period end.

[tdskip]

Originally Posted by flightlead404

If you're interested in giving me feedback and maybe working with me to refine it, I'm currently working on a design for a plastic block that bolts to your case and holds a carpenters straight edge for checking the cam sprocket parallelization. I'll give you one for free if you help me finish it. Its tested on a 930 case only to date.

Otherwise you'll really need a helper or 3rd hand.

I’m still in the planning process but am happy to help when I dive in. I can probably scare up a block before then as a test loaner if that would help.

[Walt Fricke]

Flightlead - you know Pelican sells the Stomski tool, right? Isn't aluminum a better material for a holder? One of the good things about the Stomski tool is that it comes with a Sterret proper length straight edge. That's top of the line.

I used to try doing this with a metal carpenter's square with the short leg cut off. You can hold it against the intermediate shaft housing and, by being careful, get it true (though it is very easy to have it rock a little and still feel like it is square). Using the depth caliper with one hand is the challenge. My readings were very hard to repeat. A holder does away with all this. Maybe the carpenter's square was true enough for this work (you only need to be as close as the shims allow), or maybe not.

[al lkosmal]

1. Sealing the case
2. Cam Timing.

regards,
al

[tdskip]

Thanks Al

[Trackrash]

OK. Here goes.

Placing the two case halves together, making SURE, the oil pump seals stayed put.

Installing the piston circlips. The tool is a MUST with JE pistons. You may want to buy a couple of spares, AHIK.

And yea, timing the cams with the new style bolt, good luck.

[al lkosmal]

Circlips....+1...the Stomski tool is a must.

[tdskip]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/STOMSKISR073.htm?pn=STOMSKI-SR073&gclid=CjwKCAjw5dnmBRACEiwAmMYGORGPeU4Vvk_mwoYirx31 S14v9kZnPS7mH6qhCycdwtkCZctX2p8q_BoC458QAvD_BwE

This one?

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by tdskip

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/STOMSKISR073.htm?pn=STOMSKI-SR073&gclid=CjwKCAjw5dnmBRACEiwAmMYGORGPeU4Vvk_mwoYirx31 S14v9kZnPS7mH6qhCycdwtkCZctX2p8q_BoC458QAvD_BwE

This one?

Yes, maybe. Depends if you have an SC or Carrera and Mahle or JE pistons.

I made my own. Not hard to do.