3.2 top end so while I'm there time to upgrade

[Luke M]

I'm looking into which oil pump to use. I may just have my 3.2 pump sent out to GYM for a mod and reuse it. I've heard the 964 pumps are made of mag which have had issues unless they are now made in aluminum ? The cams are where I'm stuck on. I'd like a good street torque cam but with some top end too

[Luke M]

Would the 964 oil pump part # 964-107-011-14-OEM be the upgrade to the 3.2 oil pump?
I know I would also need the shorter oil pump drive shaft.

TIA.

[Flat6pac]

Luke, if you’re going to spend the money, get a turbo pump.
Carrera pump, include cam line restrictors even with mods to the pump
I would rather replace a cam than a crank
Bruce

[Luke M]

Hi Bruce,

I already have the cam housing oil restriction fittings. So I should just get my 3.2 pump
redone by GYM and call it done. Anyone else with any words of wisdom?

TIA

[shoooo32]

I have a GYM pump in my 3.2ss (with cam line restrictors). Night and day difference in oil pressure from the stock SC pump. Even on a hot day after kicking the S*** out of it, it's putting out 1.5 bar at idle.

[Luke M]

After communicating with Glenn Yee, I decided to send him my oil pump for modification.

Now it's a waiting game until my parts return.

[Cairo94507]

I have the 964 cams in my '87 3.2 with a custom Steve Wong chip and large tube custom SS heat exchangers and muffler. It runs and sounds great. Engine built by flat6pac BTW.

[Luke M]

The parts and machine shop items are finally rolling in. I received the case and cam towers back from the machine shop. I'm still waiting on the crank, rods, and heads. I received the modified GYM 3.2 oil pump back so that's ready to go. Most of the lower end bearings are in but still waiting on the #8 bearing. All bearings are Calico coated. The Rasant PMO EFI induction stuff is in and ready to go. New Mahle MS 3.4 p/c's are in and ready to go. All new timing gears, chains, and associated parts are on hand.
I still need to figure out the cams and get the rockers out to be refinished.

Stay tuned for updates and pics as I get started on re assembly.

[Luke M]

I got the engine case, crank/rods, p/c's, & heads back from the machine shop. I was inspecting the case and noticed that the parting surfaces did not get as clean as I thought they would.
I was thinking the case wash would've taken the sealant off but guess not.
So what are my options without having to remove all of the outer perimeter studs to clean the surface ?
I did that with my other builds but it's a real pain in the ass. I also had to replace several studs that were damaged upon removing. I have a soda blaster here. Soda blast an option or do not try it?
I would hate to remove all the studs but maybe my only choice. Anyone done it differently ?

[Luke M]

I split my 3.2 case awhile ago. When I was doing that I noticed that the outer perimeter M8 lock nuts where not the nylon style but instead all metal oval lock nuts. So my question is this, was there a reason Porsche went this route vs the the nylon? I have the nylon style on hand but would need to buy the oval lock nuts for assembly. Anyone know?

[Flat6pac]

Luke, those are “prevailing torque” nuts. I would not reuse them, I have a bag on the shelf and they eat the threads.
I continue to use the nylons as they were good for 40 years good tomorrow t.
Bruce

[Luke M]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Luke, those are “prevailing torque” nuts. I would not reuse them, I have a bag on the shelf and they eat the threads.
I continue to use the nylons as they were good for 40 years good tomorrow t.
Bruce

Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the info. I kinda figured on reusing the nylon style so nylon it is.
I wasn't sure if there was a reason behind the use of the oval lock nuts.
As you can see I removed the case studs. Not that I wanted to but had to.
I tested a few and they came right off. Guess the case cleaning may have compromised the loctite.
So now they are all coming off and re install with new loctite.
Now to prep and clean the case.

[Harpo]

Good morning Luke M

Nylon lock nuts can only be used 5 times and all metal lock nuts are designed to be reused 3 times. After that the prevailing torque performance degrades to the point that they don't provide adequate resistance to loosening.

Which of the calico coatings did you use on your bearings? Did you apply it?

Thanks

David

[Luke M]

Originally Posted by Harpo

Good morning Luke M

Nylon lock nuts can only be used 5 times and all metal lock nuts are designed to be reused 3 times. After that the prevailing torque performance degrades to the point that they don't provide adequate resistance to loosening.

Which of the calico coatings did you use on your bearings? Did you apply it?

Thanks

David

Hi David,

I'm gonna use new Nylon nuts which I already have on hand. As for the bearings they are coated by Calico.
Got the rod bearings from Automotive Associates. Mains and Inter shaft bearings also coated by Calico from PMS. The #8 coated bearing from Pelican Parts. I had to go to a few places cause I couldn't get all the bearing from one source at the time of purchase.

[Luke M]

Well to a standstill I have come. In cleaning and prepping the case for assembly I have found that 3 out of the 6 piston oil squirters are not working. I tried for several days of cleaning, blowing air through the chambers, more soaking of different solvents to no help. So, I reached out to a member which makes rebuildable piston squirters. Anyone have a clue which is the best way to remove the old ones?
I have to remove the old ones to measure the bore before I order a full set.

TIA,

[HaroldMHedge]

Read this thread, I believe it covers everything on removal of the squirters.

*&%$# piston squirters

[Jeff Alton]

Originally Posted by Harpo

Good morning Luke M

Nylon lock nuts can only be used 5 times and all metal lock nuts are designed to be reused 3 times. After that the prevailing torque performance degrades to the point that they don't provide adequate resistance to loosening

David

what material data is this based off of? Interested, please post. For the very few dollars in using new nuts (nyloc or stover style) it would seem pointless to reuse. To us they are one time use, much like a torque to yield bolt. Even with data that says they can be used "X" number of times, they would still go in the bin.

Cheers

[Luke M]

Thanks for the removal and install threads. I'm working on removing all of the oil squirters. Keep you guys posted on how it works out.

[Luke M]

I got all the oil squirters out of the case. Had a little issue with one but after I switched to the wood screw method the rest came right out. I first drilled a 1/8'' pilot hole then installed the wood screw ( see pics ) a few taps from the slide hammer and out they came. No heat, no fuss, just came right out. The first attempt was the factory method to drill and tap with a 5 mm tap. That did nothing but pull the threads right out on the first tap from the slide hammer. So for others who see this don't waste your time skip right to the wood screw method it works and works well without damaging the case. Now I'm just waiting on the new squirters from Taormina Racing to show up.

[mikedsilva]

nice work.. looking forward to seeing more updates