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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,116
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I don't follow?
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,947
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when you put the orings in did you use a lot of oring lube ? if so i would crawl under with a pillow to support my head ... gob a ton of lube in there.. and work it back in with one of those plastic ineterior trim tools. Id put a hose clamp around the return tube so it can be grabbed and turned as i worked it back in a tiny bit at a time ...
Why would i do this ?? because you have absolutely nothing to lose... if it doesnt work crush it, pop it out and from this point forward when you are under your car you have a reminder to " do better"
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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The two piece tubes work just fine. I always use one next to the oil pump fitting, so I can get a normal wrench on the fitting should the need arise. So not to worry you built in a weak point.
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,116
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Yeah, I'm not taking a chance on damaging something over a silly oil return tube
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,425
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Find a couple of Wrightwood Racing green viton o-rings. They're softer and go in nice. Use silicone paste. Oil won't work.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Silicone grease was used, I still can't believe this happened and I didn't check my work! |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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Do this long enough and you may have 1) put the heads on without the one piece return tubes you bought on one bank, and not discovered this until you had put the cam carrier on, and maybe installed the rockers and timed the cam.
2) Put the right side cam in the left side, or timed #1 and #4 backward. 3) Put a head or three on upside down (at least this is noticed earlier rather than later. Having a good engine stand makes all the work easier, but being able effortlessly to rotate the engine can allow getting mixed up on which side is up. Not that any of these problems aren't easily avoidable. |
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,116
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HAHA, Walt, happens to the best of us.....
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,947
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Quote:
__________________
1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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Registered
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Have you fixed this problem?
Tippy,
Have you decided which direction to take to get this nagging problem solved? I don’t think the big viton o-ring for the oil return tube could be forced to slide back in without damaging or compromising the sealing property of the o-ring. Keep us posted. Tony |
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Registered
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Quote:
Tippy, you have tried what I would do - some upholstery type tool and lube. I get you on the compression. One other option might be a heat gun, Plus above. Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,116
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I tried heat with lots of grease to no avail. Way too much compression on those monsters
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