getting engine off the stand

[cmcfaul]

Any creative know how for getting the engine off the stand? Anyone done it single handed?

I have a couple theories but bet it there is a better and proven method then what I am thinking.

Chris

73 911E

[Flat6pac]

I can slide the engine off the engine stand onto a hydraulic table and lower it to the ground or 4 inches off the floor.
Bruce

[brads911sc]

unless you have a jack made for an engine, probably worth getting someone to help you.

[4sd911]

I used a chain and tackle. Install the engine cross bar mount and bolt a chain to both mounting holes and then another chain to the mount on the stand, connect both chains to the tackle. Lift just enough to slide the Mount off the stand then lower. After lowering then remove the engine stand yoke. I did this without the intake installed.

[al lkosmal]

I use an engine lift/crane/hoist. It's how I get them on and off the stand....single handed. Works great and can be found at many auto parts stores, Harbor Freight, etc.

[cmcfaul]

Thought I saw a post where someone gently tiped the stand over to get the engine on the ground. May have been the opposite ?

I wonder if the engine lift/crane is somthing I can rent or borrow from Advanced Auto. They have loaner tools. seems like the perfect candiate. I bet it would be helpful in getting the engine back into the car by lifting the car or the engine as well

Worth checking out.

Thanks,

Chris

[MBruns]

Chris,2-3 people can easily slide a complete early 911 out of a stand to the floor or install jack. but by yourself best get a hoist

Mike Bruns

[MBruns]

Chris, you can build a simple install jig, basicly a couple of short 4x4's and a couple of 2x6's about 24"long across the top of the 4x4's to rest the engine/trans. on the headers, with the "bridge" high enough to slip your floor jack under you raise it into place with the back of the car on tall jack stands front tires on the ground, if you center your install tool about mid eng/trans you will find a balance point and up you go .

Mike Bruns

[mcaterino]

I've been grappling with this question too. This may well be my only engine rebuild, so I didn't want to buy a bunch of expensive stuff for single use. My current plan, untested as yet, is shown below (I was literally just planning this tonight). I strengthened a standard (maybe slightly small) pallet across both ends and through the middle, and added some strong casters (the same ones that I used on my now dismantled chassis stand) to make a dolly. I'll prop the dolly up on jackstands right up under the engine on the stand. This is too high for my floor jack, but starting with the jack on an i-beam, I should be able to lower it in just a couple stops to the floor. Then under the car it goes.

I believe I could do this myself, but will have 2 or 3 people at hand when the time comes to help stabilize the dolly on the jack.



I'll probably be doing this beginning of next week, and can let you know how it goes.

Mike

[brads911sc]

Seems pretty complicated for a fairly simple task... me and my 16 year old can lower from stand and install in car in about 3 hours or visa versa.... with a regular jack stand with engine balanced on a 2x12 and 2 4x4's. A safer bet if you dont want to risk it falling over would be a simple engine stand that is less than $150 at numerous places...

here is one example...

http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Transmission-Engine-Jack-Lift/dp/B000KQ0LLC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290570812&sr=1-1

Originally Posted by mcaterino

I've been grappling with this question too. This may well be my only engine rebuild, so I didn't want to buy a bunch of expensive stuff for single use. My current plan, untested as yet, is shown below (I was literally just planning this tonight). I strengthened a standard (maybe slightly small) pallet across both ends and through the middle, and added some strong casters (the same ones that I used on my now dismantled chassis stand) to make a dolly. I'll prop the dolly up on jackstands right up under the engine on the stand. This is too high for my floor jack, but starting with the jack on an i-beam, I should be able to lower it in just a couple stops to the floor. Then under the car it goes.

I believe I could do this myself, but will have 2 or 3 people at hand when the time comes to help stabilize the dolly on the jack.



I'll probably be doing this beginning of next week, and can let you know how it goes.

Mike

[johnman001]

I use an engine crane to pick mine up off my jack and onto the stand. I built a fixture similar to the tool shown in the workshop manual for my jack. It works with all 911 engines 65-89 that I have tried with it.



This jack fixture solidly supports the engine with or without the transmission and allows the space required to separate or install the trans.

It works well with or without exhaust, but on the 914-6's, I typically take the exhaust off.

[YTNUKLR]

+1 Flat6pac

1/4 Ton Capacity Hydraulic Lift Table

I have two of the larger (1000lb.) version of this, they are absolutely indispensable to me. One engine on a cart, load up and change out another one without ever tweaking my back...

I got the larger ones for about $200 each w/ coupon...if you look for a coupon online you can probably get the one above (500lb.) for $150 all-in...

I used to use the cranes but they fell out of favor to me because the width between the legs was annoyingly narrow and the engine swung around too much, and was usually off-kilter at a bad angle.

ymmv

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by YTNUKLR

+1 Flat6pac

1/4 Ton Capacity Hydraulic Lift Table

I have two of the larger (1000lb.) version of this, they are absolutely indispensable to me. One engine on a cart, load up and change out another one without ever tweaking my back...

I got the larger ones for about $200 each w/ coupon...if you look for a coupon online you can probably get the one above (500lb.) for $150 all-in...

I used to use the cranes but they fell out of favor to me because the width between the legs was annoyingly narrow and the engine swung around too much, and was usually off-kilter at a bad angle.

ymmv

YTNUKLR
Your link is for the 500Lb (which I got 5 years before the car),. I did not think that the 500 version could handle it?

JJ

[J P Stein]

A bit of pre-planning is a good thing....a table saw helps, but it not required.
The ATV jack is a lot cheaper from HF these days....mine is 10 years old. Mostly made from stuff laying around the shop....like the cabinet door.......

[euro911sc]

Those solutions work, but the problem has always been how you transfer to the jack for install in to the car or move it around after its out... I have found it is always best to have the ability to put a jack under the engine at any time. So all my technique is centered around keeping the area under the case clear so I can use it to put the jack there. My garage is tight so I am always moving it around if not working on it directly.

I basically made an 18" wood fixture from a 2x6 that matches the bottom of the case profile and avoids the sump plate. It is 2 layers and looks like a 'U' with the open space where the sump is. That goes on my jack. I have marked the right balance point for engine and for engine + trans so I can line up my jack and be sure that the load will be balanced.

When I pull the engine + trans I move them out and place a milk crate under the trans center and 6 2x12x16" boards under each header. The engine is lowered and rests on the wood and crate. This allows me to easily detach the trans from the engine. Then I can re-center the jack on my wood fixture and raise the engine high enough to get it on and off the stand. Just go slow and its a piece of cake. I just put the whole drive line back in on Monday with no help.

My set up cost was mostly the fee for the 2x12's which I have a bunch of. They fit under jack stands very well or under the plastic ramps I use under the front of the car so the car is not at an extreme angle when I'm pulling the engine out from under it. I don't remove the bumper or valence... waste of time. the boards store excellently in a stack on wire shelving I have when not in use.

The KEY (after being patient and slow moving) to safe drive line maneuvering is a floor jack that is easy to control the down speed on and experience with that jack. If you get one that just lets go randomly or too fast you risk spilling what you have on it... I don't let anyone control the release of my jack but me because I KNOW my jack and how/when it releases.

Enjoy!

-Michael

[euro911sc]

Also, dont buy a stand like this one below started out as. See how it has been modified so the middle leg is not there. Buy a stand that has 2 legs and an open space in the middle like the modification here They are a bit more expensive, but a ton easier to work with and much more stable.

[J P Stein]

Yes, modified, like I said, pre-planning.

The concept of getting the 10 inch box out from between the ATV jack & the cradle seems to be beyond some....a hint, it's magic.

This set up is STABLE even when the trans is attached.

[YTNUKLR]

The 500 LB version is enough to handle a 911 engine. I use the 1000Lb but yes the 500 will work.

The thing with the hydraulic table - you don't need the dang floor jack! I seriously use the hydraulic tables more than my jacks. They go up to, like, 36" + they are 8" tall . More than enough even with my elevated engine stand.

Seriously, get the hydraulic table! and be done with it!

[J P Stein]

I've done the old in & out on an average of once a year for the last 10-12 years. I can load the motor from the stand, attach the trans and into the car in a couple hours or less *by my self* and I'm old & slow...no brag, just the way things are. ......


You wanna balance the thing on a floor jack, be my guest.

[JohnJL]

Hydraulic lifting table. Since getting it for this purpose I've found a dozen other uses too.