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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 168
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P234 rear main seal tool available?
Getting ready for my JE piston set 73 2.4L rebuild 911T and in need of the p234 or equivalent rear main seal install tool. Is there one floating around this forum to buy? I only need one use (hopefully) so it isn’t really economical to buy a new unit.
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 114
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Where are you?
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,426
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Small plastic hammer. Cheap.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 585
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I’ve got that tool, the best part about it is that it’s fool proof. Tapping in is just as good as long as the seal stays square - if they are at all crooked it’s a leaker
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it's not leaking....it's just marking it's territory |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Langley,B.C.
Posts: 11,992
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We have the tool as well, I rarely use it, but our techs use it all the time... It is fool proof and creates consistent repeatable results, which is important in a shop environment.
Cheers
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Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep www.turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Cayman S 3.8, Cayenne Turbo, Macan Turbo, 69 911, Mini R53 JCW , RADICAL SR3 Last edited by Jeff Alton; 10-14-2022 at 07:48 PM.. |
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Home made P-234 tools.........
Go to your local hardware stores and look at the plumbing section for these pvc parts or find a scrap steel plate.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Langley,B.C.
Posts: 11,992
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The one advantage of the tool is that it sets correct depth.....
cheers
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Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep www.turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Cayman S 3.8, Cayenne Turbo, Macan Turbo, 69 911, Mini R53 JCW , RADICAL SR3 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Rijswijk, ZH
Posts: 1,781
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Quote:
Or is it just mitigating the risk of hammering too hard and squishing the seal in some way? D. |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 585
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Quote:
The original post mentions a 73 crank so he actually needs p215 which also just drives the deal flush.
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it's not leaking....it's just marking it's territory |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13,843
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A lathe pays for itself really fast when you need NLA or $$$$ tools.
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Newquay, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 382
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Quote:
On installation, I would generally fit a seal (using a "screw" tool like the above) until the seal bottom end sits against something (like the case). If it happens to be "flush at the other end" because of the seal dimensions, then "so be it". Is this foolish for a 9 hole flywheel crank seal (or any other), and it would be better for it be "flush" regardless of whether the bottom edge is up against the case? |
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Quote:
Strictly, The depth of the circular cavity is several mm more than the thickness of the rear main seal. So if you install the oil seal flush to the edge, there is still several mm clearance before the backside comes in contact with the crankcase. I have some measurement done years ago and if my memory serves me right, the space is about 3~4 mm clearance. Basically, the green PVC and the steel plate work the same way as pressure plates. The three (3) bolts are tighten gradually to push the oil seal smoothly and flush to the case. I use the same bolts for the PVC and the steel plate. The bolts shown in the picture for the steel plate were my proto-type fasteners I just picked from the tool box. The regular hexagonal head bolts are what you need. Nothing fancy. Tony |
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Easily Confused
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 428
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Super Big Gulp cup from 7-11 worked for me.
Here's the writeup Flywheel side crank seal installation
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Scott C. '08 Cayenne GTS 6MT : '89 Targa GP White/Black - "Oliver's Car" : '11 Mitsu Evo X : '08 Lexus IS350 F-Sport : '01 Toyota Sequoia : 1998 Yamaha V-max : 1979 BMW R65 |
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