The Dude's Rebuild; 72 911T

The Dude · 07:07 PM

I've read other rebuild threads with interest and thought I'd start my own. Have compiled a handful of questions so far and figured it's about time to post my progress.

I bought the car in 1989 and was told I was the third owner (unverified). It was my primary ride in college but the interior needed some TLC and $$$. I got the MFI rebuilt and had the exhaust and heat exchangers replaced in 2000. Probably no more than 1000 miles put on the car since this work.

Fast forward to 2009 --> car sat in storage for 3 years while I lived in Hawaii. It was leaking fuel when I trailered it to New Mexico after moving back and hasn't ran since I got it here.

Back when it was running, #2 and #6 wouldn't hold compression so I thought I would now try my hand at a rebuild and see how many unique tools I could buy before my wife cut me off.

The engine came out OK but I had to leave the tranny on as the barrel nut at 10 o'clock was cluged up from a previous drop. No big deal. I got the MFI off and am not planning on touching this at all (except as noted below). Heat exchangers came off with no problem too so I'm pretty happy with the progress.

I've included the obligatory "assistants in the engine bay" picture and a couple more that illustrate my first question which is this:

In the second picture (engine upside down on the stand), there's a metal oil line running from the bottom of the case, under the flywheel and terminating at the oil tank. I can't break the line loose from the case; the whole metal line turns with the fitting and I've given a cursory try at holding the line while I crank on the nut. In the picture, you can see how the line fits around the flywheel--here it is slightly displaced so I could get the engine yoke on. The next picture is a close-up of the fitting. From what I can see, it's one solid piece from the outer nut to where it joins the case. It looks like the fitting is supposed to turn around the metal oil line but it doesn't and I'm afraid to restrain it too much while I crank on the nut.

Please help before I break something!! I have more pictures but didn't want to clog up this first post.

I'm also thinking about the upgrades I can make while I have this thing torn apart. Yes I have Wayne's book and yes I've read most of chapter 4. Thinking of going with "S" specs (MFI tear down?) plus the Carrera chain tensioners. I'm sure there's more but that's how my current fantasy goes.

Thanks - I am looking forward to this experience.

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At least they can tell 17mm from 13mm.

Metal oil line running from right side of case, up and over the yoke.

Close up of the oil line fitting.
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ddinham · ddinham's Garage

Landon,

If you are in or near ABQ. I'd be happy to stop by and give any assistance you might need.

Dana

The Dude · 09-14-2009, 05:26 AM

Dana,

I'm in Alamogordo. Probably too far to drive. I'll be in ABQ for the balloon festival in a couple of weeks. Any good Porsche salvage yards or parts stores there?

Landon

ddinham · ddinham's Garage

There is a great guy up in Pilar that has alot of misc. parts.
I'm in the middle of a 2.7 build right now. Your welcome to stop by when your in town. If interested, PM me and I'll give you my address.

JFairman · 09-14-2009, 09:18 AM

Remove the oil pressure relief valve cover so you can get a wrench in there.

Put an open end wrench on the fitting screwed into the case to hold it from turning while useing another wrench to unscrew the oil line fitting.

A little heat from a propane torch might help but don't overcook it.

The oil return tube can dent easily from a wrench if you turn it into it while loosening or tightening the oil line fittings.

jwasbury · 09-14-2009, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Dude

In the second picture (engine upside down on the stand), there's a metal oil line running from the bottom of the case, under the flywheel and terminating at the oil tank. I can't break the line loose from the case; the whole metal line turns with the fitting and I've given a cursory try at holding the line while I crank on the nut.

I'm tearing my engine down too and just ran into the same issue over the weekend. I've hit it with penetrating oil and left it to sit. If it doesn't budge after that and some heat, I'm cutting the pipe with my dremel which will allow me to take the whole thing out of the case. Then I'll need a new oil line and fitting for reassembly.

Eagledriver · 09-14-2009, 01:00 PM

The oil return tube is cheap to replace (the brass colored tube). I'd sacrafic it first to get a better grip on the fitting. Heat and penetrating oil should help.

-Andy

The Dude · 09-14-2009, 05:15 PM

Thanks for the help. I got the oil press relief valve off and shot the fitting with some liquid wrench type stuff. I think the oil return tube will have to be sacrificed. Will get on it when I get back into town.

jwasbury, let me know how you solved the problem.

Landon

Shoepop · 09-15-2009, 11:34 AM

If you sacrifice it I've got one you can have in Las Cruces.

jwasbury · 09-15-2009, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Dude

jwasbury, let me know how you solved the problem.

I ended up cutting the f_er off tonight. New fitting and new oil pipe go on the list of rebuild parts now.

The Dude · 09-20-2009, 06:34 PM

Well, I tried to get the oil line off today (again) without success. Dinged the oil return tube in the process so I've got that going for me.

Shoepop, I might take you up on the offer. Will let you know when we come over again. Thanks.

After thinking it over, I might wait till I get the disassembly done more before I try to remove it. It's not really in the way now too much.

I removed the pressure plate today and the rest of the engine mounting bracket.

Chains and tensioners coming off next. At least I got a couple more use-only-once tools for my collection. If anybody is thinking about a rebuild, I'll have some things for sale when this project is done.

BTW, any cons to upgrading the chain tensioners to the pressure-fed type?

Progress photo:

The Dude · 09-20-2009, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwasbury

I ended up cutting the f_er off tonight. New fitting and new oil pipe go on the list of rebuild parts now.

How much for the new line?

jwasbury · 09-21-2009, 05:49 AM

New old style oil line is about 100 from our host, and the fitting is 25 or so.

The Dude · 09-23-2009, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwasbury

New old style oil line is about 100 from our host, and the fitting is 25 or so.

Ouch. The super-special "1972 only" line is llike $235.00. Guess I'll get a another new part.

The Dude · 09-27-2009, 06:41 PM

My 46mm crow's foot and cam holder came in this week so I was back in business. The cam nut came off easier than I expected given what I've read about it. I bought a 1/2" breaker bar from Wal-Mart and it worked like a champ. The chain housing covers wouldn't slide off so I left them on till I got the heads off.

Here's the latest photos (that damn oil line still isn't off):

I was too cheap to buy the flywheel lock so I made my own:

So here's my latest question; The cylinders have "Mahle" stamped on the bottom and I was reading Wayne's book (page 53) and he seems to say that Nikasil cylinders by Mahle weren't introduced until 1973. Did Mahle make cylinders prior to that? Also, he also says Mahle/Nikasil cylinders have the stamp on the bottom (top of page 55) and that the Nikasil coating is slightly magnetic - I checked and my cylinder walls are magnetic. Either Mahle cylinders with Nikasil coating were used in 1972 or somebody put these on my engine previously. Anyone have any ideas? Think I'll post this on the Technical forum also. The Haynes book says there were Mahle cylinders in 1972.

Cylinders coming off next.

tom1394racing · 09-27-2009, 10:50 PM

Your cylinders appear to be the standard 84mm biral cylinders used in the 2.2 and 2.4 E and S spec motors. These would have iron (magnetic) bores with Aluminum (non magnetic) fins. The pistons also appear to be either the 2.2 E or S spec pistons.

Overall, from your pictures, the engine appears to be in pretty good shape.

The Dude · 09-28-2009, 06:14 PM

Thanks for the help Tom. The only oil leak looks like it's coming from the breather on top. Everything is coming apart nicely so that's good news.

I found this stamped on top of the cylinders:

84ZD3

I think I've seen some threads with serial number themes and will try a search to see what's out there.

Over on my Technical Forum post, somebody suggested that the "84" would mean 84mm (used on 2.2/2.4L).

eapcpa · 09-28-2009, 08:33 PM

On the oil line, are you using the correct size open end wrenches? I bought my wrenches from Northern tool locally and they were pretty cheap. You have it torn down far enough to have some room to work. Make a note to yourself to reinstall this line before you put the oil return tubes back on when you reassemble. Not much room to turn after it is together but it is not impossible. Good luck with it.

The Dude · 09-29-2009, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eapcpa

On the oil line, are you using the correct size open end wrenches?

I haven't tried the sane way yet; just some crescent wrenches. Next step is to give this a shot -- really thin ones would work nicely when I figure out where to get them.

I will definitely attach this line before the oil return tubes go back on.

Thanks.

The Dude · 09-29-2009, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom1394racing

Your cylinders appear to be the standard 84mm biral cylinders used in the 2.2 and 2.4 E and S spec motors. These would have iron (magnetic) bores with Aluminum (non magnetic) fins. The pistons also appear to be either the 2.2 E or S spec pistons.

Tom, my rebuild plans included increasing the CR anyway, so this development is good news. Once I get the rest of her apart, I'll have some more questions -- I see you've possibly answered them from my cursory searches. Thanks.