3.2ss for 78SC

[wprater]

Hi!

Ive had this beauty for over 7 months now, been procuring parts, tools, and time to get started on this build. Lots of cleaning and preparation reading and re-reading forum posts and Wayne's book.

Got a great shop in Magnolia where I spend my days now. This is pretty much my full time jobs for the next 6-8 weeks, so I better have this thing purring by the end of it. Taking my sweet time and waiting for some parts to return from the machine shop.

Head and cylinders and being machined now.

This is a continuation of this earlier thread, as I've since purchased this beauty from Derek. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/506621-project-911r-something.html

So far my build is looking like this:

• 3.0 case
• 3.0 rods
• 3.0 (70.4) crank
• GT3 red main and rod bearings
• Wossner 10.5:1 pistons +3mm 98mm
• Carrera 3.2 cylinders (with no ring groove) +3mm bore and plate
• Early SC big port heads
• Eibach dual valve springs
• Titanium retainers
• DC60 cams
• PMO 46 carbs
• XDi2 Dual Plug Ignition
• Electromotive knock sensors
• Fuel pump work by Henry

Im undecided on exhaust and need to get something in my hands soon.

[wprater]

Lots of cleaning and planning; more cleaning more planning, it's never ending, I tell you.

Been running lots of errands: getting bags, pens, tools, paper, latex gloves...

[wprater]

Last week a used stretch gauge to measure the clearance of my main and connecting rod bearings.

Everything was within spec. All the rods were ~2g (709-711 with stock bolts) apart as well, reconditioning was don at EBS Racing.

[wprater]

Got the crank assembled and it passed the "fall test", where all the rods fall on their own when you hold it sideways. That was a relief

[wprater]

Next week Im going to attempt to get these little guys in there. One first attempt, they feel _very_ snug, so any tips in securing and staking the case to keep them there are appreciated!

After I get those installed, I'll mate the case halves and get this short block complete. That will be a happy day, Ive seen all these engine parts for far too long!

[mreid]

Looking good! Who bored and plated the cylinders for you.

[wprater]

Originally Posted by mreid

Looking good! Who bored and plated the cylinders for you.

US Chrome Plated Cylinder Services | Plating Honing Repair | Piston Coating | Big Bore Kits | Motorcycles | Snowmobiles | Dirt Bikes | Rebuild | Replace | U.S. Chrome Corporation of Wisconsin Cylinder Repair Company

[mreid]

Thanks, great choice!

[al lkosmal]

Greetings.........who is doing your machining for you.

regards,
al

[wprater]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

Greetings.........who is doing your machining for you.

regards,
al

cgarr here on Pellican!

Timmy2 is going to help with the harness.

[David Borden]

Hey Will, congrats for getting started on the build! I LOVE the look of your car and that color combo with the stripes. Very nice!

So whats under the cover??

David

[wprater]

Originally Posted by David Borden

Hey Will, congrats for getting started on the build! I LOVE the look of your car and that color combo with the stripes. Very nice!

So whats under the cover??

David

Thanks.. and your carbs are going to look mighty fine in there too!

That's a 997 cup car and GT3 RSR on my other side.. quite the "competition", eh?

[wprater]

Installed the piston squirters today. Made sure the through holes were still nice and clean and then lightly tapped them in with a rubber mallet. Afterwards, I seated them in there with a small dowel and staked them in place.

They are brand new, but I need to be sure they're working. I will test these tomorrow with my air compressor.

Part no. for these little guys is 91110101101

[wprater]

Yesterday I tested the brand new piston squirters I installed. They worked great, but I found that I needed to give them around 60psi to open up and spray a nice pattern.

Others had mentioned that they may open up at 30psi, but they were just dribbling for me at that rate, so I recommend you use something higher.

I found that cleaning the left side is actually harder, at least with my rubber tip. I really had to jam that soft rubber tip in there to get it to seal. The right side I used tube to close up the interior channel.

[KTL]

Activation of the pistons squirters, actually allowing for activation of them sooner in the rpm range, is one of the arguments for the reduced orifice size in the cam housing oil line adapter fitting. But that's at the expense of oil volume delivered to the cam housing, which is said to rob that area of some much needed oil cooling.

The oil system can see 77 psi of pressure before the oil pressure relief valve opens and excess pressure is directed to the inlet side of the pump. This is the commonly referred to oil bypass mod in the 1976-earlier engine cases and is already present on 1977-later engines. Above that, there is a safety valve that prevents overpressure which is activated at ~114 psi

There's a really good discussion on oil pressure relief in this thread Ultimate Oil Pressure Relief Valve Thread

[boyt911sc]

Where did you source the GT3 bearings? Does Pelicanparts carry them? Thanks.

Tony

[wprater]

Originally Posted by KTL

Activation of the pistons squirters, actually allowing for activation of them sooner in the rpm range, is one of the arguments for the reduced orifice size in the cam housing oil line adapter fitting. But that's at the expense of oil volume delivered to the cam housing, which is said to rob that area of some much needed oil cooling.

The oil system can see 77 psi of pressure before the oil pressure relief valve opens and excess pressure is directed to the inlet side of the pump. This is the commonly referred to oil bypass mod in the 1976-earlier engine cases and is already present on 1977-later engines. Above that, there is a safety valve that prevents overpressure which is activated at ~114 psi

There's a really good discussion on oil pressure relief in this thread Ultimate Oil Pressure Relief Valve Thread

wonderful information, will review, thanks for sharing!

I already have the "mod" since Ive got a 78 case, but want to read up on the other information as well.

[wprater]

Yesterday I did a test fit of the pump and intermediate shaft into the case. Things are looking good.

Went ahead and installed the crankshaft. Did a backlash check and things are not too snug, just a slight "click", which is good.

The oil pump was restored by Henry @ Supertech and looks nice!

After marking a cross hatch on the nose bearing to the case while in the dowel pin, I found it was still hard to get the crank dropped in. The trick for me was that I needed to pull the nose bearing away from the crank 1mm or so to really get my marks to match up.

[wprater]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Where did you source the GT3 bearings? Does Pelicanparts carry them? Thanks.

Tony

I got them from Don @ EBS, but Pelican appears to carry them as well.

GT3 Red connecting rod: 996 103 121 81
GT3 Red mains: 996 101 901 01 RED

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by wprater

I got them from Don @ EBS, but Pelican appears to carry them as well.

GT3 Red connecting rod: 996 103 121 81
GT3 Red mains: 996 101 901 01 RED

Wprater,

Thanks for the GT3 main and con rod bearings information. What did you use for the intermediate shaft bearings? Are they made by Glyco? I spoke today with a technical guy selling GT3 main bearings and I was told that the GT3 main bearing from Glyco are not the problem. But the Glyco con rod bearings are the ones having some sort of problem. The technical guy mentioned something about Clevite coated connecting rod bearings for SC engines is the trend to use these days. So I am trying to gather information which ones to use for my next project. Could you share your choice of bearing parts?

Tony