Parts have arrived at the shop, will be picking them up tomorrow. I've reviewed and re-reviewed the assembly chapters in Wayne's book. Kind of daunting, but I'm ready.

Hoping to kick off work this weekend. First step is cleaning, second is crankshaft assembly. One step at a time!

I'm pretty busy but if you find yourself in a quandary, give me a call.

Thanks Henry!

I took a half day off work and brought all the parts home this morning. This weekend I will organize everything, divide parts and supplies out into the 10 stages from Wayne's book, and make sure I have everything needed to start stage 1.

The plan is to prep 1 or 2 stages ahead, so I can be sure when I have 6 hours free I am ready to do the work. When I have less time free, I can do cleaning and such.

Parts have arrived, and I'm beginning final cleaning and assembly. I have a list of sealants and glue-things to get:
1) Loctite 271 (or maybe Permatex?) for bolts.
2) Loctite 574 for case sealant
3) Curil-T for... seals? Curil-T is hard to get, its been replaced with Curil-T2. Is T2 OK?
4) Black silicon sealant
5) JB Weld
6) Assembly Lube

In a couple steps, I'll need to handle the chain and rods while closing the crankcase. Any suggestions or tricks, or should I just get my hands on the official chain and rod holder tools?

For now, I'm cleaning crevices and corners. I think I need to find a stiff brush with a tip. Maybe something made for cleaning firearms? Getting off the excess sealant from 25 years ago looks fun!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757286728.jpg
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hmmm... what's the black silicon sealant for?

Oso, before you proceed, I suggest you have a close read on this thread:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/284737-complete-engine-sealant-thread.html And black silicone is not part of the sealant list, best leave it on the shelf.

This is what Wayne's book recommends with the silicon sealant.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757332980.jpg

Ok, digging in... I also have some recommendations from the local Porsche shop.

You'll see different recommendations on sealants. Have a look at the sealant thread - collective knowledge from multiple pros who have assembled thousands of 911 engines between them. I figure they know what works.

Yikes, 38 pages! Working through it slowly. Currently (page 11) looks like Henry's sealant kit (available on our host) has everything I need, and page 1 and this picture say where to put it.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/3424799-post34.html

I'm sure I'll learn more over the next 27 pages and remaining 15 years of posts.

More progress on the sealant thread, not done yet. What a massive thread and some of the discussion gets... spicey.

But I'm seeing a recommendation that I chamfer my through-bolt holes. I suspect that was already done by previous rebuild, will check tonight.

One of Wayne's advisors was clueless. I did a whole thread on one of his nightmares years ago. I don't use his name anymore because I think he dies. The engine was so hideous that the owner brought it to us to reassemble before he ever started the engine. Glue was applied like there was a prize for the ugliest over-glued engine. Black silicon applied to every possible leak point. Oil return tubes, rocker shafts, flywheel and front pulley seal and even valve cover gaskets, but the list goes on.
Never use blue case through bolt o-rings. Have the case holes surfaced (mag cases only) and put them together with green Viton o-rings and a high quality o-ring lubricant.
The glue on that case looks like epoxy applied to the outside as an attempt to slow case leaks.

That's terrifying!

My case is aluminum, and I'm planning to pick up your sealant kit (waiting to finish the sealant thread in case there is more guidance on that) and the green o-rings that come with it.

Do I need to chamfer the holes on an aluminum SC 3.0 case?

And one other piece of advice to ignore is the recommended of the use of Locktite on the rod bolts.

I didn't see anything about that (yet). What's the argument for doing that? On its face, it sounds like loctite there is really important.

Rod bolts/nuts don't fail due to just "coming loose"

Thread lockers can effect torque values. Threads lockers are generally counter indicated on stretch bolts.
To my knowledge, every manufacturer of high quality rods and rod bolts, supply a thread lubricant to promote consistent torque values. Notably, ARP has it's own branded lube with their bolts.

Thanks Henry, I received my reconditioned rods back from the shop assembled with the new bolts on them, shop recommended moly lube and no loctite.

Just ordered your kit from our host, should arrive in a few days. I'll probably shoot to assemble the case in 1.5 weeks over the weekend, when the kit has arrived and I can borrow the chain and rod holding tools. I'll plan to put together a step-by-step procedure and post it here first.

Here is an engine built by the "black silicon" guy.

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Note the LocTite on the flywheel bolts, also contra-indiated.

I always wondered about the use of Loctite on engine parts as the temperatures would be likely so hot as to render the locking effect null. Am I correct?

Different LocTite products have varying operational temperature ranges.
Generally speaking, 911 engine temps will not exceed the operational range on most LocTite products.
Choosing the correct product for each application is generally made easier by the manufacturer's build criteria but with some applications, experience is key.