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While I'm at it - tranny?
Pulled the engine for a top end. Should I do anything to the '82 915 besides a clutch and flywheel?
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis 1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916 |
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Irrationally exuberant
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It gets expensive real quick...
-Chris
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What does?
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis 1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916 |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Quote:
-Chris
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Ummm, having just gone through this myself here some things to consider :
Pressure plate Throw-Out bearing Guide tube Release fork Helper spring Clutch cable BTW, I had my flywheel resurfaced by a local shop for something like $50 so depending on the condition of yours you might want to consider that.
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the trans parts should be around $900 if you DIY. that wouldn't include clutch related stuff.
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Doing the clutch disk, pp, t/o bearing, flywheel and cable. Why the fork and tube? Are there any seals that are good to do?
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis 1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916 |
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Guide tube is now $125, turn it over if it's not too bad. Will yours shift into 1st when you are moving?
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Yup. No problem shifting but, then again, I was trained to shift into 2nd before going into 1st to slow down the syncros.
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis 1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916 |
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FYI the trans works fine. I am a big fan of preventive maintenance and wanted to know what fails regularly that would be good to replace.
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis 1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916 |
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Irrationally exuberant
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If you aren't going to open the transmission I'd:
- check the seals for leaks - clean and relube the clutch fork shaft - probably replace the funny seal(s) on the above shaft, they get crumbly - check the guide tube for scoring (clean and relube w/moly grease) -Chris
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markwemple, sorry for the newbie question but when you say "I was trained to shift into 2nd before going into 1st to slow down the syncros" how do you actually do that? If you are already in 2nd do you come out of 2nd to neutral than back into 2nd then go for 1st?
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If I'm in second I shift into first with the short delay that all 911 drivers are supposed to use, the neutral position wait (the reason we all shift slowly
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I'd want to put in a Quaife, but I'm sorry I don't have an extra one of those for you.
Rob
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Rob Channell One Way Motorsports 1979 911SC mostly stock ![]() 1972 911T Targa now with a good 2.7 ![]() 1990 Miata (cheap 'n easy) 1993 C1500 Silverado (parts getter) |
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Me too but the budget doesn't come close to having $ for that
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Resurface Flywheel!
Replace clutch,PP and TO bearing, pilot bearing, FWheel Bolts. Drain fluid Get all seals and replace them-including guide tube and shift rod seal in front. Clean everything. (just as hard to do as a case cleaning) There's some kind of shifter fork acess plate held on with 4 nuts. On it is some kind of fork held on with 10mm nuts and lock washers. The lockwashers were broken and the studs that held the fork were stripped and the fork was loose. I replaced the worn parts and gasket. A good catch. Replace the back cover gasket if leaking. I used Drei Bond and the gasket. Replace all CV joint fasteners with exact like kind. Get some Schnorr washers for all the fasteners and use them. Replace CV boots after you clean and repack the CV joints. Use new CV joint gaskets. Get a clutch cable boot if you need one. Fill it with Swepco. That's what I did so I wouldn't have to bother with it for a while (hopefully +5 years). Hope it helps. Lee78SC ![]() Last edited by oneblueyedog; 03-31-2004 at 05:57 AM.. |
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The clutch cable boot, are you referring to the one on the body or the cable? If the one on the cable is replacable please let me know as there are signs of wear but the cable is fine as far as I can tell. Thanks.
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis 1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916 |
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It's the one on the cable end that helps keep grit out. If the one in the body is shot (mine was at one time) replace it. It helped keep engine fumes out of the center tunnel, and dirt. If I remember right the center tunnel is some sort of feed fro the AC evaporator. It got rid of the gear oil smell before I rebuilt the drivetrain.
I did not have to replace the clutch cable. I replaced the boot because the original was rotten. Use some silicone lube to help slip it over the end hardware.
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I looked on pelican but couldn't find it. Any suggestions on where to purchase it?
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2002 C2 Cab, 1982 sc, 1978 sc, 1976 s,1985.5 944, 2003 Honda Pilot, 2001 Volvo X/C 70, 1977 FIAT 124 spyder (an abarth someday), 2 1984 Vanagon Westis 1958 BugEye Sprite, 1960 BE Sprite, 1978 Yamaha XS11 1970 Honda 750 K0, 1982 BMW R65RT, 1997 Duc 916 |
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311-713-269A $6.00 Via Pelican. It was under Cables.
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