Well with the bolt the customer has no knowledge other than it works, and it works just as good as ANY other hunk of metal welded into place or a brand new connecting rod pin, NO difference. I agree with the rope, but the point should be taken, as some people don't care, as long as it WORKS. And as to bucks rember AF 1 costs a few bucks more than a Porsche.

You can't be saying "If the customer can't see it, it doesn't matter"? Shame on you

Is that how you sell a used car too?

The more you say, the scarier it gets.

Let's just say " some people don't care, but I do !!!!"

You just don't get it, do you.

I get it.
You think a UGO is as good as a Porsche if all you're doing is going from point A to point B.

Or in a more philosophical statement, for you "the end justifies the means.
For me "The means justify the end".

We'll let the Pelicans decide.

Holly smokes guys, lots of people have good info to pass along here. Post your thoughts and answers and let the readers of the threads decide what route they want to take.......

Cheers

I do not take posting here lightly. I post here so that DIY guys can have the best possible chance for success.
Building a 911 engine is hard enough when you are working with good information.
The chances for success is greatly diminished when someone offers bad information masquerading as fact.
If my goal is your success in the monumental task my goal by default is to debunk the bad information and the purveyors of this bad information.

This might seem confrontational but sometimes the truth is worth fighting for.

Does that mean I think I am the only one who knows the truth? No, what it means is that at a given time I am willing to fight for what I believe is the truth.

Okay, good point.

Cheers

.

OK, I gonna show mine. Mine is 8000 to 9000 rpm, 2 hp per cu inch, normally aspirated, Porsche. I just tore down my race engine after about 25 hours of 8000 rpm plus, twice the hp of a normal Porsche and I am gonna show you what the engine looks like at this point. I will start with pictures of the crank, and rod bearings, as well as the crank assembly. The entire assembly was 11 gm-cm out of balance and I left it alone! Why, to maintain the perfact shot peen job that was done to everything. Result, NOTHING that can be seen!! I will show you ALL the steps I took, the balancing , the porting, the valve job, everything, step by step. I will show Science works, ie demystifying the Porsche mystique. Starting tomorrow.... I will show my equipment, you show yours.

I might even show pictures of the infamous BOLT in a wrist pin!!! But remember that was not the same engine.

I didn't find Henry abrasive at all...
I saw a professional stand behind his belief which was substantiated through his test results.
Perhaps you're being a little to sensitive, Afterburn.

you do not know the whole story...better let it go, or ask Henry about planes and testerone knives and gun fights

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131509573.jpg

My crank and carillo rods. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131509646.jpg

What I use to balance my crank. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131509862.jpg

When I finish balancing my crank. Yes I am bragging.

Looks good!,Like the knife edge too!!

The same scale thats used to balance the rods, end to end and overall, can also be used to balance pistons, wrist pins, and any other assorted materials

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131511956.jpg


Rod balancing.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131512095.jpg

Piston and other assorted balancing material . Note the scale and the engine dosen't care whats there, just that it weighs the same.

cool, but shouldn't this be in a new thread?

What's this for?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131541067.jpg

My guess is that is used to de-burr and smooth the sharp edges after machining.

That thing is a round sand paper thing thats used to remove the sharp edge on top of a cylinder thats produced when boring it. This is necessary to prevent the honing stones from making a ridge or taper. Its also needed to help make a champher to allow the rings to enter the cylinder, without damaging them.

I am not trying to start anything, just a question.
Scat crank and Carrillo rods and your telling us it was 11 grams out of balance?
I know the crank comes from scat closer than that, and I have never seen a set of Carrillo rods (matched from Carrillo) that were more than 1.5 grams out. Where was the 11 grams?

Inquiring minds want to know.

BTW: Very nice equipment, yours?

IT wasn't in the Carillo rods, they were DEAD ON. The Scat crank, on the other hand wasn't. I am not the only one that has had this problem either. Just check with one of the sources of these cranks, ie Duane Spencer and see what he says. This has been mentioned on previous posts. In fact I still have a Scat crank that is over 11 grams out of balance. I never corrected it due to the very nice shot peening job and the fact that it isn't enough to justify screwing up the shot peeing job to correct it. Its the same one pictured above. You can also externally balance the entire assembly using the flywheel and the front pully, so this is what I did.

I have been told that Scat has failed to balance these cranks at all, ie I was lucky to have only 11 gm-cm unbalance. Scat does not balance some cranks at all, mostly v8 types, due to differences in piston and rod weights, but for any Porxche crank, all in line, and independant of the pistons and rods, it makes no sense whatsoever.