I bought the snap on tool to do mine. I could have double nutted them and been fine. The heat on the inside of the spigot is the key.

Chris,

I agree that too much torque here can be a bad thing; I used the air wrench as a way to lessen the lateral force applied to the stud while turning it. My impression is dilivar is brittle and doesn't take kindly to lateral movement.

Here's the pics of my stud removal tools.--- the struggle is much easier with the 1" wrench and the setup works nicely in the lathe for cleaning/polishing. I used a heat gun to heat the case and deal to the Loctite,as I was a bit wary of putting the gas torch on the magnesium.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109120759.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109120797.jpg

Bob,

Very interesting, thank you for taking the time to take some pictures of your custom tooling. I still have not performed this operation yet, what are the possibilities of borrowing your set-up?

Best Regards,

Alex

No problem, Alex, but I am in New Zealand!--- .There must be someone on here that will volunteer to turn up a bit of hex bar for you? I made one nut fairly long to get a good set in the lathe chuck, and the thin one because there is not much thread on the top of the studs. I used POR15 on the shiny shanks after cleaning them up. The case is a '77 ,7R --its a 911/85--and I believe all the studs were original factory installation, all are magnetic, so I dont think there were any Dilivar.--A bit strange that!
My other engine is a '76--911/84 and all the housings etc are
magnesium, but the '77 aparently inherited a lot of the 930
bits that year---- camchain housings, and rocker covers are all
alloy.
Bob

I started a new thread with this question, but is it safe to put a flame on a mag case?

Yes, just don't use too hot of a flame.