Any suggestions for removing my 911 case studs without the expensive snap on tool?

[Shuie]

I bought the snap on tool to do mine. I could have double nutted them and been fine. The heat on the inside of the spigot is the key.

['78 SC]

Chris,

I agree that too much torque here can be a bad thing; I used the air wrench as a way to lessen the lateral force applied to the stud while turning it. My impression is dilivar is brittle and doesn't take kindly to lateral movement.

[Bob Goding]

Here's the pics of my stud removal tools.--- the struggle is much easier with the 1" wrench and the setup works nicely in the lathe for cleaning/polishing. I used a heat gun to heat the case and deal to the Loctite,as I was a bit wary of putting the gas torch on the magnesium.

[Determined]

Bob,

Very interesting, thank you for taking the time to take some pictures of your custom tooling. I still have not performed this operation yet, what are the possibilities of borrowing your set-up?

Best Regards,

Alex

[Bob Goding]

No problem, Alex, but I am in New Zealand!--- .There must be someone on here that will volunteer to turn up a bit of hex bar for you? I made one nut fairly long to get a good set in the lathe chuck, and the thin one because there is not much thread on the top of the studs. I used POR15 on the shiny shanks after cleaning them up. The case is a '77 ,7R --its a 911/85--and I believe all the studs were original factory installation, all are magnetic, so I dont think there were any Dilivar.--A bit strange that!
My other engine is a '76--911/84 and all the housings etc are
magnesium, but the '77 aparently inherited a lot of the 930
bits that year---- camchain housings, and rocker covers are all
alloy.
Bob

[RetroSC]

I started a new thread with this question, but is it safe to put a flame on a mag case?

[350HP930]

Yes, just don't use too hot of a flame.