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3 restos WIP = psycho
Join Date: Feb 2005
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Is it stupid to build a hot 2.0 on an original, numbers matching, 1R 'S' case?
The question says it all. I am convinced I need to buy an Al case, but I figured I'd solicit opinions.
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What kind of motor? Keeping it a 2.0L?
If you keep it a 2.0L or 2.1L I do not see a problem.... Now if you bore out the spigots, you may try to find a normal alum case.
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Chad Plavan 911ST Race Car/2.5L SS Race Motor #02 1972 911T- Numbers matching- Restoring to stock 2011 Porsche Spyder Wht/Blk/Carbon Fiber Buckets/6-Speed (Sold) 2016 Elan NP01 Prototype racecar- Chassis #20, #02 |
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3 restos WIP = psycho
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: North of Exit 17
Posts: 7,665
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This has been the purpose of my research; Charles at LN has told me that he can get 87.5mm pistons and cyls into a stock 2 liter spigot. This would end up being a short stroke 2.4 if I went that way. Needless to say, I am worried that a 1R mag case would not be able to take a 225 HP 2.4L revving at 8K, stock spigot bores or not. It seems like you would know as well as most, though. Thoughts?
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Andy |
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3 restos WIP = psycho
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Andy is correct: JE.
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Your aluminum case would more than handle that HP from that 2.4L.
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Chad Plavan 911ST Race Car/2.5L SS Race Motor #02 1972 911T- Numbers matching- Restoring to stock 2011 Porsche Spyder Wht/Blk/Carbon Fiber Buckets/6-Speed (Sold) 2016 Elan NP01 Prototype racecar- Chassis #20, #02 |
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3 restos WIP = psycho
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: North of Exit 17
Posts: 7,665
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I read somewhere that 911 aluminum crankcase can handle upto 800 horsepower.
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3 restos WIP = psycho
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I wouldn't build a short-stroke 2.4 on a 1R case. It will work, but will eventually tear itself apart. I've seen 2.7RS motors built on these cases though, but it's only a matter of time before the case is a paperweight.
If you insist on keeping the numbers matching, then keep it small bore. But no matter what, you should shuffle-pin just for longevity's sake, because even if you keep it a small-bore hot-rod, it will have to rev like mad to make any power.
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3 restos WIP = psycho
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Thanks Tyson, that is the exact answer I was looking for. You guys rock.
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I would shelf the original case regardless of which engine you decide to build. Why take the chance of damaging a case that significantly increases the value of your car? If you can afford it, shelf the entire engine.
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3 restos WIP = psycho
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Location: North of Exit 17
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I'm going to shelf the case, P/C's and oil pump. The rest of the guts will most likely go to an aluminum cased motor unless I can somehow justify buying another 66mm crank and 2.0 rods, which I have been considering. It just seems like wasted money to me buying redundant, replaceable compnenents.
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The Mag case will not handle the power and torque of the new 2.4..
Go with an aluminum case, and save the 1R case.
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Mark Scott Vintage 911 Racer 1967 911S 2.4L ROCKET Powered by Faragallah! www.scottassociatesracing.com |
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3 restos WIP = psycho
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What about 2R/3R case? If you did all of the machine work (shuffle pins), how much life could you expect out of those cases? 7R would obviously be best of the mag cases...
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Just a historical note:
Almost all IMSA 2.5 liter GTU cars that ran Porsche engines used 7R cases because they offered the best service and reliability (not to mention weight savings.). I know of no front running teams that ran 2.0 aluminum cases for their race applications. I was there when they were built and I just can't remember one. If some of the other old timers remember one please chine in.
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net |
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The best rule of thumb I have heard is the mag case is good for 250 hp. If you plan on building more than that, then go alum.
Thanks Ed
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Try not, Do or Do not
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IMSA 2.5 liter engines generally made very close to 300 hp
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net |
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