Crossroads - rebuild short block???

bbh03 · 08-04-2005, 01:56 PM

I've stripped down my euro '78 to the short block (see pic). My dilemma is whether to go through the trouble and expense of cracking into the case. I am doing the rebuild as a precaution since the car sat for 8 yrs unused and maintenance was unknown. The car has 250 kilometers on it (150k miles) and everything looks to be in very good condition so far. Opinions?

Also, I appear to have steel head studs (magnetic), none of which are broken. Do I need to replace these? What are the risks?

Thanks all!

Brian

Jay Auskin · 08-04-2005, 02:16 PM

Maybe remove the rods and inspect/replace the rod bearings?? That might give a little indication as to the health of the "short-block". Of course you'll have the added expense of new rod bolts and bearings, along with possible machining of the bearings, but you've already done a lot of work. Why risk it unless you know it's good, or plan to sell in a few years?

jpc1818 · 08-05-2005, 03:41 AM

In my few years experience(5 months owning and reading alot) I would agree with wayne. To summerize he stated in his 101 engine rebuilding book that he has "never" seen a steel head stud broken. So if they are magnetic, not the divilar (or however they are spelt) I would keep them. Hope that helped a bit.

bbh03 · 08-05-2005, 07:50 AM

I saw that in his book too, but it also said something like always replace for 78-79. That left me unsure. I hope you are right as that would reduce the cost of the rebuild!

rw7810 · rw7810's Garage

27 year old 911 motor with unknown history..... I would split the case, new bearings, seals, polish crank and R&R rods.

Eagledriver · 08-05-2005, 10:55 AM

The expense isn't that much more to split the case. If you want to save some money you could just remove one rod (#2 or #5) and check the bearing condition. That way you only need two new rod bolts. The cost will be for front seal, rear seal, 2 rod bolts, and maybe a new main bearing set. All told probably less than 200 dollars. You'll also get a chance to clean up the case so the engine looks much better. I'd hate to put the engine back in and have the rear main seal start to leak in the next couple of years when I could have replaced it at overhaul.

-Andy

bbh03 · 08-05-2005, 03:55 PM

ABout how much to do all the bearings, rod bolts, seals and clean the case halves? I assume the oil pump should be okay?

asphaltgambler · 08-06-2005, 07:29 AM

I believe the basic short-block is the easist $$$ part of the engine. If there are no broken pieces it would involve your labor mostly.

The short-block is the foundation of the engine. You are so close here there is no reason to "go through it". Assumptions at this stage is a very, very dangerous thing. Make SURE YOU KNOW what every pieces' condition is.

Regardless of the experience of the engine builder; things of this nature such as short / cost-cutting, assuming condition, not being detailed in your workmanship, having unrealistic time lines are what seperates the successful engine builder from guys like Motor Meister (easy pickins here)

The newest part in that engine is 27 years old and a buck-fifty on the clock. Do the job correctly and completely now and that motor will reward you with years and tens of thousands of miles.

bbh03 · 08-06-2005, 07:31 AM

Well said. I'll tear it down.