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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cincinnati,Ohio
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Well,its been about 3 months so far,machine work,heads done,new cams(964's),tracking down some odds & ends......Paying for it all.....If the wife knew total cost....I'd be DEAD
![]() Everything is clean,organized,Re-reading assembly section in the bible(you know,Wayne's book).DAMN I"M READY...........? WAIT! A quick question....I measured the rod journals,everything to spec,checked rod big ends,a-ok!Then read part where Wayne says about some builders not checking clearances w/ plastigauge do to bearing shell tweaking when tightened then re-loosening to do this check? Whats the thoughts out there??????? ![]() Anyway,Here are a few pics of whats waiting for me in the garage.I know everyone likes pics!!!!! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now if I can just lock myself in the garage for a few days.......... ![]() Chris
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"If you think it's gonna cost $1000, ya better budget for $2000." Chris 85 Carrera 3.2(Back on the road after rebuild) 02 Trans Am WS6 95 Eagle Talon 98 Bravada(sold) 07 G5 Last edited by cjr1; 09-02-2005 at 04:24 AM.. |
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Couple More Pics!
Here's a few more.......
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Gotta give a big THANKS to Don Weaver @ EBS also!Provided me with lotsa help & advice as to what "should be done" vs. "money no object replace everything"mentality. Chris
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"If you think it's gonna cost $1000, ya better budget for $2000." Chris 85 Carrera 3.2(Back on the road after rebuild) 02 Trans Am WS6 95 Eagle Talon 98 Bravada(sold) 07 G5 Last edited by cjr1; 09-02-2005 at 04:38 AM.. |
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Location: Charleston, SC
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Chris, Your story sounds so much like mine. I rebuilt my 3.0, 964 cams, EBS did the heads and rod bushings, and if the wife had any idea about the final tally I would be living in the 911 in a campground somewhere. Wayne's book is the bible and followed step by step you can't go wrong. Mark the page for torque values, 200 I think and don't get ahead of yourself. To me the hardest part was cleaning and prep. If something falls neatly into place don't think, "OK that was too easy what did I do wrong?" Much of the assembly is that easy. Other tasks will require total concentration and 3 hands. One thing I would recommend if its not too late, Don't throw out any old parts until you are done. I cleaned out what I assumed were worn bearings in zip lock bags and threw out the intermediate shaft cover. Wasted 2 weeks rounding up a used one. Two weeks the car sat because of that silly little cover.
End result I now have 3000+ miles on the engine including an 800+ mile trip to the blue ridge parkway last week. No issues to date and the difference in power brings a smile to my face anytime i near the 4K mark on the tach. Just a rewarding experience in every way. Enjoy, Kevin
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Kevin '79 Coupe |
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Still Doin Time
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nokesville, Va.
Posts: 8,225
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Two words...................detail and patience
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'15 Dodge - 'Dango R/T Hauls groceries and Kinda Hauls *ss '07 Jeep SRT-8 - Hauls groceries and Hauls *ss Sold '85 Guards Red Targa - Almost finished after 17 years '95 Road King w/117ci - No time to ride, see above '77 Sportster Pro-Street Drag Bike w/93ci - Sold |
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Ya - Everything that Kevin said.
If you're using Locktite 574, go THIN. Have seen pics on the board where people have loaded up to much. Go thin and some will still squeeze out, but just a bit. Finished mine last year and it is so drip free that certain parts underneath the car that never saw dryness before are starting to rust, I.E. axles, tranny drain plugs, etc. ![]()
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If you take a couple of feeler gauges and put them in between the side of the rod and the crank before you torque the rod, you should be able to get a good reading on the plastigauge. I always torque the connecting rods this way to keep the rod from twisting and pushing on the bearing during assembly.
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John Dougherty Dougherty Racing Cams |
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One way to reduce worry about this is to skip this step. You had good machinists do the work, you have measured to check up on that work, and this is your own old engine, not some assemblage of parts from thither and yon. If somehow the machinist who resized your rod big ends (looks like you had that done) got them oval and your measuring of each one didn't pick up on that, aren't the chances good that Wayne's "see how well the rods overcome the assembly lube and rotate" test will find that out? If you have a clearance problem your project is on hold anyway until more machining is done (frightening thought, as it may mean rebalancing rods).
Here is the mistake I most commonly make in putting the engine back together: some kind of screwup with the oil return tubes. I have left them off one side. I've got plenty of collapsible ones so this is never fatal, but I like to start out with the regular tubes for all but the front left one (where access to the oil line fitting is hampered if you can't just pop the tube in and out). And if I remember to put the tubes in, I may not recognize that the resistance to getting the cam carrier to seat on the heads is due to not realigning one of the tubes. Walt Fricke |
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Just my 2 cents after putting 2 of them back together... Make sure you break down the reassembly into managable chunks. That is, tackle one assembly and complete it. Check it and move on. Do not try to do too much at one sitting! You might get tired and overlook something critical. Mentally prepare for your next step and understand what needs to be done. Double check all torque readings, specially inside the case.
Check out http://basketcasemotorsports.bravehost.com/EngBack.htm Lou (One 3.0l completed after a missed shift and 6 bent exhaust valves, and a 3.2l 11:1 twin plugged putting out 300 HP... And picking up a 3.0 Euro with a broken stud tomorrow ![]() ![]()
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'76 911 "Moneypenny" daily driver '74 911 "JLo" IROC DE Car '03 CRV, '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee '03 Holiday Rambler Admiral SE, 30ft, 8.1l, 340HP, 455Ft# http://www.nicotra4.hpshare.net/BasketCaseMotorsports/ |
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How about some more info on that motor?? What size carbs? What ignition and what cam are in that?
Cheers, Jeff
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Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep www.turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Cayman S 3.8, Cayenne Turbo, Macan Turbo, 69 911, Mini R53 JCW , RADICAL SR3 |
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Jeff, without stealing the thread. If you are referring to my motor, here we go
![]() 86 3.2 case and cyls, 11:1 Cosworth pistons, Elgin 315/300 cams, twin plugged w/ HPV1s, J Woods rebuilt 46IDAs, boattailed, ported, Niresist rings, 964 pump, Pauter rods, Ti retainers, 930 crank. Bought it in boxes about 5 years ago for $3600. Only thing missing were the rods... All machining was done. PO had it running for about 3 hrs before it spun a rod... Seems they used an undercut crank. Dynoed at 261 @ wheels about 306FWHP. I think I did well ![]()
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'76 911 "Moneypenny" daily driver '74 911 "JLo" IROC DE Car '03 CRV, '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee '03 Holiday Rambler Admiral SE, 30ft, 8.1l, 340HP, 455Ft# http://www.nicotra4.hpshare.net/BasketCaseMotorsports/ |
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Very nice,
![]() Cheers,
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Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep www.turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Cayman S 3.8, Cayenne Turbo, Macan Turbo, 69 911, Mini R53 JCW , RADICAL SR3 |
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ditto....patience...feel how things fit....check the common mistakes thread....assemble in chunks is a good idea....cover openings so small parts don't fly in...looks like you are very nicely setup...I hope the best for you..stand back at each step and think for a minute....
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Guys,
Thanks for the encouragment & thoughts.This is my first P-car rebuild,but not the first engine I've done.Lots of sb chevys,couple hydro boats and various 2 stroke cycles.All have there own tricks & differences.The build quality of the p-car stuff though does look to be a cut above. Attention to detail is very high on the list,no matter what! Thanks again!!!! Chris
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"If you think it's gonna cost $1000, ya better budget for $2000." Chris 85 Carrera 3.2(Back on the road after rebuild) 02 Trans Am WS6 95 Eagle Talon 98 Bravada(sold) 07 G5 |
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