Yes, I think 255's are possible. But that would take some work. I'm running smaller diameter springs which allows more options for sizing. I've thrown on a 275 (on 9" rim) on the front and it looks great. Can't turn the wheel....but it looks great. This is all academic since in the back we're limited to ~295 width tires. My plan is to run 245's and 285's and call it done.

Since this is the engine rebuilding forum, thought I'd get us back on track! Here are some shots of what got me into my requild. Anybody see whats wrong in the block picture!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1129227548.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1129227604.jpg

Infra...are planning on doing anything for your fueling? Speaking from my experience, it could be a problem if not addressed.

thanks for getting us back on topic, jeff. must say I'm surprised the 965 can't take as big of tires as a 930, but I do understand.

broken head stud on #3?

Yep, broken head stud. The leak down on that cyclinder was ~15%. What was interesting is upon teardown, they found a broken piston ring on #5, but the leakdown was similar to the others (~%6).

The motor was running great at the time. I had no indication of any problems...until my turbo let go. Very impressive smoke show! While in for the turbo fix, they found these "other" problems. On a side note, the turbo failed because a shrowd bolt had fallen into the scavenge pump pulley, jamed it and sheared off the bolts that hold the pulley. So it was only a matter of time before the turbo failed.

Jeff,

I note from your photo that there appears to be an oil return tube lying in the pan under the engine. But it looks like it's been cut in half. Any idea if that's from your engine, and if so, why it was cut in half?

Saw the ring too. Being and "inside" stud, and maybe catching it early helped

Hey Rob,

That's one of the replacement types. If one is leaking, you can replace them with the two piece variety. My guess is that the PO had a leak and they threw in one of these to fix the leak.

How's that motor comming!?!?

Jeff,

Oh, I hadn't considered it was a two-piecer. That makes sense.

At the risk of further hijacking the thread, and since you asked, here's the motor as of three weeks ago. It's much closer now. But I haven't taken a picture recently. I figure if I can just spend 10 minutes a week on it, it'll be done by 2010!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1129238441.jpg

It's coming along!

Been out of town for awhile. I like the Red Sled very nice. I think I will go with Black rims after all. I am not worried about tire size since I am powder coating the stock rims.

9dreizig and gumba
I am glad Henry picked up the slack with numbers for you. Here they are again
Safe Way Auto Transport

866-800-SWAT

E.Fax 270-423-0002

Swat_team@earthlink.net


When you call, say hi from Henry@Supertec and Randy too.

Jordi
Got an email coming to you. Not that many of us out here. When mine comes back we will have to ride.

jeff912C2T
Again, nice friggin car I love the Red Sled. Just curious what did you mean by fueling? Do you mean EFI vs. CIS? Please explain I'm curious.

I was supposed to stop by and see Henry and my car while I was out of town. Unfortunately, I didn't make it. I drove a Ferrari 512 instead (bussiness meeting). First time for me. 12cylinders are pretty damn fast and I love the noise the shifter makes with the metal gates. Waaaaaaaaah click Waaaaaaaaaaah click Waaaaaaaah :cool: Still it is not a Porsche and I think the Bl@ck Bastard will forgive my transgression.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1129597098.jpg

Henry
Love those motors. Damn, I think I made the right choice with Supertec.
Do it yourself or call a professional
Wayne pulled the thread because it became a pissing contest.?.?...hmmmm isn't that what all of this is about anyway? Lets not kid ourselves cars were invented to be pissing contests. What is that expression about the first race happening after the second car was built or something. Anyway, I would never question the infinite wisdom of our leader and the man that made this board possible (thank you). I just wanted to let Henry know I dig the motor. I would definately say go with a PRO (if its Henry at Supertec) because for me the time I would spend figuring out how to do this and breaking parts and putting things together and taking them apart because I forgot something would be better spent on my bussiness. I am a professional at what I do and I find other professionals to do the things that I am less than professional at. I agree that if I had the time I would love to tackle the project but that is not the case at this point. Hope mine looks that good!! Any pics you got Henry send em over. Inside/outside dirty or clean I want to see it all (engine pics that is).

Hi Infra,

By fueling I was thinking of being sure your air/fuel ratio's are in check. If your sticking to CIS, you'll have to pay close attention. A dyno or good wide band AF meter is a must. Actually I can't recommend this strongly enough. After my rebuild, everthing was "supposed" to be good. After all it's a stock motor right?!?! Put it on the dyno and I was too lean (~13.5 to 1). If not checked I would have been in for another rebuild!

Thanks Jeff, I will be sure to mention it to Henry although I am confident he is on top of this kind of thing.

What's a good wide band a/f meter for a turbo. I use a Westach in the race car (3.4 twin plug) and someone said that wouldn't work on a turbo.

Octane Boost, turbo and Detonation
 

Quick question:
I believe the 91 Turbo 3.3-3.4 will have a slightly higher compression than stock. If I also turn up the boost from .7 to .8 how close am I getting to detonation (pre-ignition, knocking or whatever it is called) problems? I here a lot about twin plugging and such around here but I gather that most of these conversations center around much more extreme builds. How does Octane effect the detonation I keep hearing about in Turbos? Will Octane booster in each tank help avoid this problem? Am I even asking the right questions?
I'm ignorant please enlighten me.

Innovate makes a spiffy unit. They are sold on PP. I have one on my car. It works great.

Dean

octane absolutely wards off detonation. octane booster doesn't do much, you have to mix in race gas to really get subastantial benefit. That said, with .7 or .8 bar I think you could run 8.0:1 no problem. my guess is your engine will be 7.5:1, at which 1 bar is probably fine. Take Henry's recommendations of course, but I bet you'll be just fine using "premium" from the pump, for your goals.

How does the Innovate get wired in? I have an LM1. The Westach just needs 12v to the gauge and a 12v 02 sensor in the exhaust. I prefer the analog to digital read out.

I also dislike digtal gauges. I bought an Innovate analog gauge and wire one of the outputs from the LM1 to power the guage. The other output feeds my ECU. I also hardwired the LM1 in the car.

Dean

The LM1 has a programmable analog out based on what I remember (its been a while). If you know how your gauge reacts to voltage, you can program the right curve & keep the same gauge + LM1 digital out.

The rebuild is coming along. Hopefully I will have some pics of the engine going together soon. My thoughts are now turning to breaking in the engine. I figure Henry at Supertec will have a procedure for me to follow and I have read Waynes book but I would like to learn all that is possible. Anybody have recomendations on this topic? Is there anything specific to a turbo engine break in that I should know about?