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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
Groesbeck Hurricane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 3,189
Question Post Re-Build Questions

Yep, I know I'm running about six months behind on this project and the engine has been fully assembled all summer and sitting in the car for over two months, but I finally had a weekend (well 1.5 days actually) to devote to my car. Heck, I even skipped out on opening weekend! My neighbor was going to come watch but he actually broke a couple of ribs Saturday morning so I did this solo (my wife was out of town).

Good and bad: Oil pressure on the druck press came up quickly and the car actually tried to start with the fuel pump relay disconnected. I put the relay on, primed, and she turned over and started immediately then died quickly. I verified that I was getting fuel and there was no fuel leaking. I then started tracing the plug wires and noted that I'd swapped cylinders 4 and 5.

I started her up again and she started to squeal. I went in back and loosened the alternator belt. Re-started quickly and the whine was gone.

Bad: Car will not maintain idle, I could not do the run in.
I have an MSD installed and the tach is not working.
Alternator light stayed on the entire time I ran.
Car sounds like a Harley, much louder than before.

Good: Car wants to start right off.
Oil pressure came up quickly and stayed.
No leaks noticed.
No un-identified or burning odors.

Questions: Could I have mis-labeled and thus wrongly replugged the two plugs in the back of the fuel injection system?
Ideas on where to put the MSD tach box in-line? (I have one from a buddy who never used it)
Thoughts on the alternator? I noticed the cap was missing off the back of the bugger prior to re-installing but hoped that I could get by with it on the short term. Re-build, get a re-built one, did I loosen the belt too much, buy a new one?
I put in a new WUR. Could I have messed with the screw on the FI too much and caused it to set the idle too low? I thought I turned it the direction to make the car idle faster.
I replaced most of the hoses on the CIS and I replaced them one at a time, pulling off one end and putting on the new before moving to the other end. I don't think I could have messed up here, but invite thoughts and questions.
Could I have missed something else, anyone have any other questions for me?
Car has been buckled up in the garage, no evidence of vermin infestation.
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 11-07-2005, 07:28 AM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
Groesbeck Hurricane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 3,189
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 11-07-2005, 02:30 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 239
Groesbeck Hurricane,

I guess everyone is waiting for me to get on here and admit my mistake one more time. I mixed up the wiring harness for the CIS after my rebuild. Both plugs are the same for the WUR and the cold start injector (CSI). The CSI is only supposed to get power while the starter is engaged, the WUR gets power all the time. Mixing these up results in the CSI running all the time (RICH). The symptoms are:

The cars starts right away because you have been running the CSI since turning the car on.

It will not idle because it is so rich. The idle speed just drops to zero no matter how much air you add from the idle screw.

To check if you have this condition, just use a volt meter to see if you are getting power to the WUR with the key in the run position.

When all else fails, tow it to John Walkers Workshop - of course that might take a while from Texas.

Good luck - Rex
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Old 11-07-2005, 04:36 PM
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Try not, Do or Do not
 
Henry Schmidt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Fallbrook, Ca. 92028
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Not a lot of information to go on but I'm intrigued by your comment about more noise than before.
If what you are hearing is a big sucking noise, I would suspect a giant air leak. Perhaps a vacuum hose is off of perhaps a loose or pinched intake manifold boot.
Try taking off the air filter cover and while someone else starts the car you move the lever attached to the metering plate. If you lift it and it stays running you probably have an air leak (at least the engine is running lean). If you pull it down and it stays running your mixture is set too rich.
If you do this test and neither direction helps the engine you can feel confident that mixture is no your problem and you have eliminated air leaks as the main problem.
Good luck
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Old 11-07-2005, 05:50 PM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
Groesbeck Hurricane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 3,189
Rex,

Thank you for confirming my mistake!!!! I even marked the silly things, so now there is someone worse ;-)

Henry,

Thank you! If my neighbor is up to it, we'll give that a shot tonight! (Of course, after I swap back the plugs if I can get my fat arm back there. Man, wish my wife was still in town.....)
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 11-08-2005, 09:23 AM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
Groesbeck Hurricane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 3,189
All,

I've been working with this in my "free" time.

I did not actually mix up the connectors (they wanted to smoke when I swapped them). I started tracing down electrical stuff thinking that I had something going on there. No dice, all checked out OK.

Car starts, dies. Sounded like fuel, so I started checking fuel. I ended up taking out the new WUR and replacing it with the old one. Car started and ran. I ran her for four minutes and let off the gas to see if I could adjust her and she died. My old WUR is toast, but the car will not run with the new one... Anyway, I now need to have a second person to help me and my wife is back on Thursday and my neighbors ribs aren't bothering him anymore, so...

Now I'm off with two other issues I will post elsewhere as well: The alternator light stays on (time to test the alternator), and the Tach refuses to show with the MSD and the MSD tach adapter box.
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 11-22-2005, 10:50 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Huntsville, AL
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If you want to study up up a bit on how the CIS works, what the various components do, and see how to test your fuel pressures (plus some more stuff), try here:

http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html

I hope to get some more troubleshooting info onto the site as soon as I get my current engine rebuild project done....
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Old 11-25-2005, 09:08 AM
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Sounds to me like the only problem you have is the idle screw needs to be turned in a few turns. Not the mixture screw, the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body.

If the belt squealed, that means it was slipping. Either too loose or covered with something slippery. Loosening it more made the noise go away because it prolly got so loose it didn't generate enough friction to make noise any more.
The proper adjustment is listed in the manuals, basically it should be tight. If you push on the belt and you can move it more than about 1/2" with one finger, it is too loose. that could explain the alternator thing.
Old 11-25-2005, 12:04 PM
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Wayne 962's Avatar
Check the plug wires, then check them again, then go to sleep, and check them again in the morning. I have made this mistake many times - it's amazing how easy it is!

-Wayne
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Old 11-26-2005, 02:11 AM
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Location: Winlaw, BC, Canada
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Quote:
I did not actually mix up the connectors (they wanted to smoke when I swapped them). I started tracing down electrical stuff thinking that I had something going on there. No dice, all checked out OK.

Smoke means that something was trying to melt. Go by the coloring of the wires and re-check. Some people have mixed up the CSV-plug with the Airflow Sensor Switch-plug (Or the WUR)
Is the WUR, and the AAR, working?
You can test the heater elements by applying auxillary 12V to one pin; (And ground to the other); they should feel quite warm after a few minutes.
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:29 AM
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