Since we last chatted...
 

a lot has gone on. For one, I got the cam drive system and cams installed, and set the parallelity of the cam gears. This was a surprise because the motor had only 2 shims on each side. Using the factory measurement approach yielded 3 and 4 shims for the left and right respectively (which is what is typical). I had to order shims, and they took a few days to receive. After they arrived I started to set the cam timing. I say started, because when I went toward the garage door to fetch some clamps from the basement workshop to tension the cam drive chain, I found a broken Porsche Motorsport head stud at the base of the door, complete with attached ARP nut and washer. <Sigh> This was Friday of Thanksgiving weekend. I tore down the 1-3 side of the engine, and found that the stud (from #1) was broken well above the case and was easy to remove. Called Pelican for a new set of studs, but they could not get here on Sat (I was impressed that they were working at all). So a 3.5 hour drive later to and from Dr. Timmins in DE, I had a set of new factory steel studs and cam tower cam seal gaskets. So ends Friday.

Saturday I had help from a friend for the afternoon, so in the morning I installed the studs for 1-3, and reinstalled the heads and cams, etc. Then my help arrived and we did the 4-6 side. That all went quickly. After that, timed the DC-20 cams, which also went pretty smoothly. Sealed up the cam boxes and this is how I left it on Saturday at 6pm (time for some chill - out wine and dinner!). Sunday has been a family day, so no work for a bit.

Ahh, the fun of DIY...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1164590887.jpg

P.S. If you have been keeping track, this latest turn essentially means that I have rebuilt the motor _twice_ in the same go-round :)

Got up to to a short block - then had to tear down to replace rods
Got up to a long block, then had to tear down to short block to replace head studs.

Please, Dr. Porsche, no more....

No rest for the weary
 

Once I got the long block almost done, I had to turn my attention to the valve covers. I have the stock '90 964 magnesium covers, with the original paint on them. Why porsche painted the inside of these covers I do not understand, but mine were not in good shape. So I tried glass beading them clean, but my underpowered setup really did not remove the coating. It worked well on my fan, which I gave the etching AL wash treatment and then Krylon clear coated.

So I went the chemical approach and used a paint stripper on the valve covers. This did work for the most part on the insides of the covers, but what a mess to deal with and it still left me a lot of work with a dentists pick cleaning the covers. I spent _far_ too much time on this!!!! Arrgghhh.

I ended up getting them clean in the areas exposed to oil in the valvetrain, but the outer sides still had a lot of paint on them. Those I shot with Krylon gloss black, and I left the inside natural magnesium. Whew!

During this time I also installed the fan housing, fan shroud, engine wiring harness and fuel rails/injectors. The rebuilt distributor was also installed in preparation for installing new plug wires.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165259005.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165259029.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165259048.jpg

Plug wires
 

Since my plug wires were from 1990, I thought it best to replace them. I bought a set of the Beru wires cut to length with the crimped on ends installed, and used the existing cap and plug ends. This was a bit tedious given the various parts of the factory harness, but I was able to get everything installed using copious amounts of spray silicone lubricant.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165259344.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165259367.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165259383.jpg

heat exchangers
 

I installed new exhaust gaskets in the heads, then used some Curil-T and installed the 993 heat exchangers with rotated flanges. The "problem nut" on cylinder #5 was attacked sucessfully by using a 12mm copper locknut, a Snap-On 12mm swivel socket and a 12" rocker end snap-on extension in 3/8". Whew!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165259697.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165259717.jpg

Wow Chris, excellent work. Interesting about the head stud snapping. But better now then when your engine is reinstalled, right. Anyways, your posts are a great source of inspiration to guys like me. Thanks!

Yes, there could have been a much worse time than with the long block assembled! I was certainly disappointed, since these are excellent studs. My only possible explanation is that I did the 90 degree torque setting on the stud twice instead of once. I sure thought I was careful during that process, but I am just one amateur garage jockey doing late night engine assembly...

EDIT: I have 23 studs for sale!!!

Chris,

Who did the work on the 993 exhaust for you to rotate the flanges?
Was it expensive?


Kirk

I got it done by Steve Timmins, and I recall it was maybe $150 at most. Nice job, he subbed out to Tim McNeil.

Closer...
 

I took the day off on Friday last week and got most of the rest of the engine together. Had one setback when setting the harmonic balancer bolt torque of 174 lb/ft, I bent the stud I was using to lock the crankshaft. Otherwise, smooth sailing. You can see the painted valve covers (not that great) are on and the varioram intake and sheetmetal. Time to wake up the battery in the recipient ('87 911) and get this baby installed! I am taking Friday off again this week and plan to have the engine in and fired up then.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165456506.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165456526.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165456545.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165456557.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165456590.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165456608.jpg

Go Chris Go! I've been absorbing your thread and kirk's, need to get motivated on my 3.6 rebuild:)

Today is "the" day - I'll keep you all posted!

Good luck.
Dont forget to take lots of pictures!

Kirk

Good luck my friend! U must be pretty excited!
Thanks for taking us along for the ride!

What an excellent way to spend the day off!

Good luck Chris.

Awsome Chris, I really hope you dont have any more surprises....

Jeeeeeez..... breaking studs and there brand new !!!!! Talk about bad luck man. Good luck

Chris,

How did it go?

Chris is probably too busy driving around to come on here now!

Kirk

Guys - thanks for the inquiries! Story too long and not done yet, but engine is still not working. Was in car, took back out today (sigh) and think I have everything under control but need to check a few things. Soon!

It's Alive!
 

I am running guys. As I said in my last post, long story. Short verison is:

Installed in car last Friday, tried to start up. The ebay "lightweight" starter self destructed when cranking the engine for the first time, sending metal bits thru the transmission bellhousing and causing huge friction between the ring gear and housing. Using my stock starter was a non-starter. I pulled the engine on Saturday last week. Then had to do family/work stuff. Got back into it today, and double checked a few things before putting the engine and trans back together. Good thing I took a look, because I did the cam timing wrong 4-6. I did not advance to the overlap for cyl 1 postition before I set the timing, so it was 360 degrees out. I also found the dist had been improperly installed, it needed to be pulled and reset. Duh!

So I did all those things today, and also installed an RS Fan Pulley (the factory version). Got the engine back together and installed this evening. It is running!!!!! Started on the 2nd try, with no smoke or other issues. Being late at night in the 'hood, I only ran for about 30 sec (twice). Will do the 20 min cam and rocker break in on Sunday, then refresh the oil and go for a drive.

It's about time.

Did my 20 minutes ofbreak in time and provided fresh oil and filter. I have a few leaks <!!!> that showed up, I think two of them I solved by further tightening the scavenge return line fittings. But two more look like cylinder base issues :(. At this point, I am going to drive a bit and enjoy it, it has taken long enough!

So I took a quick drive around the block, and despite having stock 3.6 varioram software everything drives very nicely. One immediate item I noticed is that the throttle response is _much_ quicker. Wow quicker. So I guess those lightweight pistons and rods are helping out...

Whew! You had us all sweating for while there. Hopefully the oil leaks will fix themselves after a couple of heating\cooling cycles. Nice work!!

Nice job Chris! Have fun with it.

I was reading through your thread again. Why did you put a sealant on your crankcase breather gastket? Just wondering because soon will do this too, but I can't find the sealant that you used.

Chris,

Congrats!

Wait for about 500 miles before deciding where you may or may not have any oil leaks. Everything has to seat itself first. My power steering pump leaked when I first started the engine, but then sealed itself up during the 20 minute breakin.

I just checked my car and I am still leaking from around the thermostat housing. Looks like I will have to go in there a second time to try and locate the problem. Grr.

Be sure and post some pics of the car in one piece!


Kirk

Here are the obligatory pics...
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460626.jpg

Ready to go back in (again..)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460638.jpg

Engine, meet transmission.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460650.jpg

Do NOT get one of these - JUNK

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460664.jpg

Back home again

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460676.jpg

Hope this is the last time for a while!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460686.jpg

Getting to the Fan Hub area...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460696.jpg

RS Fan hub - glad I did this!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460720.jpg

Got some wheels on there, and also installed a newly repainted rear bumper and fender extensions with the fresh rubber bellows

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166460731.jpg

Ready for takeoff! Note that at least some Racers Tape is already in use :)

Thats great news Chris,

I dont remember but did you use the stock flywheel and clutch?
I am surprised that the pistons and Rods made that much of a difference in the response of the motor.

So after all said and done are those 200cc really worth the swap from 3.6>3.8?
Is there a big diff in torque?


Have fun driving that baby....start clocking up the miles

Going out to lunch for the first real drive shortly. I do have an RS(R) flywheel and clutch assembly, and the pistons/wrist pins are quite a bit lighter than stock, the rods a bit less so but still lighter.

Chris,

How did you time the engine? What did you use?

Also, did your engine come with the 964 style chain cam sprocket?

Using the dial indicator (see Waynes book for details) - and yup, my bottom end is '90 964.

Did you use a 911/964 style rocker to set the valve clearance and then time the engine? The 993 uses hydraulic lifters. I am wondering how people time the 993 with hydraulic lifters.

Might be best as a new question in the forum
 

But as I recall reading, there is a special tool for timing the stock 993 cams, that does not use a dail indicator. However, if you are changing the cam to a non-stock config, that is outside my experience.

What was wrong with your starter? I think I have the same one.
What makes it junk?

How's it run, now?
Congrats on a job well done!

Doug

The first time I tried to use it, the gear broke apart almost like it was made of powdered metal. So much debris was thrown off I had to remove the engine and trans, separate them and clean it out, since the metal shrapnel was causing so much friction you could not turn the engine over. MAJOR bummer!

Quick Update. Now have about 200 miles on the engine and it is running very well. Still using stock 3.6 euro v-ram software so no long heavy throttle applications up hills are being performed. But grrreat torque! As mentioned above, the throttle response is really, really snappy. I do have a few issues: the idle when warmed is too high (1100) despite checking the cable and confirming closure of the throttle body. There are some oil leaks on the base of one cylinder that will require long term attention. And the @#% flywheel seal leaks. So, the motor will come out again, _later_ after I have some fun with it.

Next step is getting the right software for this. I had hoped that Cyntex would be able to help, but they no longer exist. Any suggestions for a Motronic programming source in the NY/NJ/PA/DE area?

Chris,
congrats!

Use Steve Wong. He did a great job on my chip. I sent him the dyno files and did a second iteration. Ran GREAT afterwards (before, too) but better after. On the dyno I checked that the timing wasn't retarding, either, under load, which was a good sign.

Doug

BTW- mine is a '95 DME and intake.

Doug

I would be happy to use Steve, and we did correspond a bit about this a long time ago. What did you use for the initial programming, and what data did you send Steve (A/F ratio tracking from an O2 sensor, or ???)

Thanks!

I sent him a datalog from the dyno. Wideband O2.

I had my first chip done by a local group called dynoshop. Steve took their data (I sent him the chip) and massaged it. I have the stock chip, too.

Doug

I second using Steve W for a chip. I'm very happy with mine!

Chris,
Any updates regarding your chip? Mine made a dramatic difference.

Doug