WHen I talked to EBS I just said "Give me the green ones not the blue ones" and Troy knew exactly what I meant. Of course then I change my gasket set from the stock one to the Wrightwood Racing set which is entirely Viton... ;-)

Cheers,

Mike

Would like advice on the installation of the Transmission Shift Rod seal. I installed a new one last year and its leaking again after 2000 miles. Its a &*% to get out with the trans in the car. Should a sealant be used on this seal?

Is it leaking between the seal and the shaft or the seal and the transmission case? Maybe you have too much slop in your shift rod and the seal can't keep up? If its between the case/seal then you have a few options including using some Curil-T or other sealer when you drive the seal in..

Cheers,

Mike

Don't use the blue thru-bolt o-rings for NUTTIN'. I used them for my 964 3.6L but apparently was not "careful" enough and shredded a few of them. Always go with green here unless you don't make mistakes or are kind of lucky - cheap insurance. Lube them with something (I used good old red grease, others have used ATF) and for GODS SAKE DON'T LET THE BOLT TURN WHEN YOU'RE TURNING THE NUT SIDE (this has a tendency to tear the o-ring and I'm deathly afraid 1 or 2 of mine are going to weep now).

Might want to take a very fine dremmel bit and unsharpen the holes where those o-rings slide into - mind the metal bits though. I would have done this if I wasn't already out of patience by that point.

I did the following, mostly following Henry's method:
1104 - case perimiter, cam housing to heads
1211 - #8 nose bearing, attempted it with power steering pump around the o-ring didn't work out
574 - journal webs
Curil-T - all seals and gaskets - NOTE - the round orange seals WILL work themselves out unless you put a VERY VERY thin coat on.
Red Grease - anything rubber - except the #8 nose

We'll soon see how it all worked out...

Outer Case Halves: Threebond 1104

Bearing Saddle Surfaces: Loctite 574

#8 Bearing (balancer end) O-Ring: Threebond 1211

Case Thru Bolts: Dow Corning 111 on Green Viton O-Rings

Flywheel Seal: Curil-T

Balancer Seal: Curil-T

Intermediate Shaft Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211

Oil Breather Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211

Cylinders to Case: Curil K-2 or ThreeBond 1211

Cam Towers to Cylinder Heads: Threebond 1104

Cam Chain Housings to Case: Threebond 1104

Cam Chain Housings to Cam Towers: Threebond 1104

Cam Chain Housing Cover to Cam Chain Housing: Threebond 1104

Gaskets: Thin coat of Loctite 574

Most Popular solutions for sealing each item above

Thanks a lot folks, I really appreciate the feedback!

Really have enjoyed all the comments on sealant favorites, and came away with a couple of questions........sorry to drag out the thread, but then it really is a good one.

Can someone tell me more about Threebond 1104? Is it an anaerobic? On the Threebond site the ll00 series products are mostly acrylic resin based, but I couldn't actually find a 1104 listed. It isn't RTV is it? Exactly why do most of you prefer this to the Loctite 574 for the outer case flange sealant.

Recently I have been exposed to considerable hype about the new sealant being used by GM on all their aluminum engine cases. The product is GM Assembly Adhesive number 1#12346141. Apparently GM developed the stuff specifically for Aluminum cases and it is all they use. I have a tube of it here on the desk and cannot imagine how we could use it on the main case, since it instructs to apply and perform final bonding within 5 minutes. But while I don't believe I could ever achieve that with an engine case, it certainly could be useful elsewhere, chain housings and etc. I is just new to me and I wonder whether any of you have experience with it.

James

I've used 1211 on the flywheel seal by mistake..#@$# instead of Curil T. Does anyone see a problem in leaving it or do I need to remove the crank and redo the whole operation.

Thanks!

I think you will be fine, provided that the seal stays in place after initial curing. When I used curil T on my pulley seal, the seal popped out. I now install pulley and flywheel seals dry.

Michel

The only good use I have found for the blue case o-rings is to use on the plug wires to identify the lower set of wires on a twin plug engine. I slipped one on the plug end before I put the boot on and used moroso heat shrink cylinder id numbers and did the same at the distributor end. Blue o-ring = bottom plug. Hows that for simple. If I could just figure out a way to put the cyl # on the o-ring. I will post pics when the proper time comes and I can figure out how to get the pictures to load. $hitty camera?http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...s/beerchug.gif

1211 on the flywheel seal will not hurt but in turn will not help.
The crank and flywheel seal should be installed dry .
There is no need to glue them. Non hardening glues ( Curil T, Curil K2, Gaska Synch and Aviation Permatex) used for this application can promote squeeze out.
A touch of 1211 at the case seam behind the seal is a technique that has surfaced of late but I have not added this to my method of sealing.

Anybody used 573 instead of 574?

Just wanted to provide an update: nearing 10,000 miles on my rebuild (see my sealing methods on page 1 of this thread) and no leaks! Knock on a large plank o' Porsche wood, that this continues! I should also add that the red silicone (re-usable) valve cover gaskets have been worth their weight in gold as I've had my covers on and off 1,000,000,000,000 times and they still seal perfectly!

The only issue I encountered were a few rocker shafts that "walked", and even with the RSR seals, leaked until I finally got them right. I attribute this to not having things dry enough (oil free) when I installed them...oil them after they're torqued.

Congrats, sand_man! Excellent work!

Is this where they go?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1187039830.jpg

That is a very nice graphic. The locations for glue placement are similar to the way we do it accept here is no reason to glue the flywheel seal. In over 400 rebuilds and even more tear downs I have never seen a properly installed flywheel seal leak around the perimeter.
We also glue the entire # 8 saddle with a very thin coat of TB 1211.
We reserve the Curil T for base cooper gaskets.

Thanks Henry. I keep repeating your mantra, "Four Glues Equal No Leaks."

I really REALLY do not recommend putting Curil-T on the nose or flywheel seal. Reason being it does not cure and therefore acts as a lubricant. Early in my engine building days I literally watched these seals slowly squeeze out of the bores while the new engine was sitting on the stand. I install them all dry now. If I really had a question about the sealing (such as a small scratch in the bore), i might put a hair-thin bit of hi-temp silicone on it. I've only had to do that once!

When you guys are using the threebond, is this instead of the gaskets or spread on the gaskets like you would with Loctite 574?

P.S. I just sealed up my case, and this thread was a HUGE help. Especially Johns photo diagram, great idea John!

Well, you know what they say about a picture being worth a thousand words....thanks for the graphic John.

On the flywheel seal, I replaced mine "from the outside in" when I did my clutch a couple of years ago, which is a common "WYIT" item, I believe. Did it dry, and had no leaks. So, I see no reason why you'd need to do it on a nice clean rebuild. I can vividly see in my mind's eye how a non-curing sealant would just provide the lube needed to walk that sucker out!

I actually used a thin coating of 574 on most of my "paper" gaskets (chain covers, cam housing to case, oil breather cover, et.). I just thinly smeared it over the entire gasket, front and back with my fingers.

I would imagine that the ThreeBond would accomplish the same thing...but would be used in conjunction with the gasket.

So in answer to your question, apply to the gasket.