This was not a track side repair. Strangely enough, this was a fresh build with zero miles.
The builder, although regarded as an expert by some, hasn't got a clue!!!

Will DC 111 be okay on the cam shaft end cover o rings or will this cause problems?

That is the proper product for those o-rings. Use sparingly and don't let it get on the green gaskets underneith.

-Andy

Thanks, that's good to hear since already used it:D. I used it very sparingly and it seemed to make them slide in easier.

That's red line assembly lube.

I'm getting ready to assemble my bottom end. I picked up the sealants and I've been experimenting with the threebond 1194 ( previously 1104). when spread thinly on aluminum, in my garage ( coolish), it sets up to tack free in about 3 minutes. tops! I have concerns about getting it applied and assembling the case in that kind of time frame. any thoughts/input? thanks, Don.

ps - as this obviously isn't anaerobic, will dried squeeze out on the inside harm anything?

it seems to dry over pretty quickly but when you torque it down it grabs. it took me about five minutes to get it applied to my case. you don't need to use too much, that will minimize squeeze out. I found that loading a syringe and spreading a consistent bead, then smoothing with a foam (not cotton!) swab worked well. The resulting bead is minor and pretty tough, I doubt any would flake off. If you are using the 1211 on the nose you really only need a very light coat, almost as light as you can spread it with a finger.

Where can you get Curil T in Canada?
 

In my province, there seems to be no supplier of Curil T. What is a suitable substitute?

Hylomar® Universal Blue sealant


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look at my last post here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/canada/433441-ultimate-engine-sealant-thread-canada.html

apparently, hylomar by permatex will also work. Don.

I use non-hardening permatex. It's a black tar-like substance.

-Andy

oil leaks from heads
 

Here are some underside pictures of the heads where oil is leaking from engine ( same on both sides), i cleaned the engine area up with some brake cleaner because everything was very wet with oil , this may help all of you pinpoint and identify the problem area better . The engine now has about 400 miles on it, the engine builder has tried twice to seal it up without success, he claims that i will probably have to live with the leaks as it is probably a case of parts that dont fit well together. I plan on dropping the engine soon to do a valve adjustment and clutch, pressure plate upgrade.

Is it possible the shop didn't torque the headstuds properly, and if this is the case, could a re-torque remedy the problem, or will things have to come apart again.

Any suggestions.

79 SC heads, 91 turbo 3.3 pistons and cylinders, Supertec head studs. .8 bar boost.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1225123737.jpg
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Chappy, did they install RSR "O" rings on the rocker shafts?

Case through-bolts, perhaps?

EDIT: doubtful, just looked at the pictures again.

+1

If you pull your valve covers you will be able to see of the rocker shafts are leaking. Without the RSR o-rings, rebuilt engines are likely to leak here according to Wayne's rebuild book.

I used the o-rings and my number 3 exhaust rocker shaft is weeping - was slightly wet. Without the o-ring, it would probably be leaking quite a bit.

I dont know what they used for o rings. I but i am assuming they used ones for an SC.

The SCs didn't come with them.

If you have seen picks of the rocker shaft you will see two grooves in them. The o-rings fit into these grooves to help seal the shaft. Normally, torquing the shaft will cause them to expand and seal. However, on a rebuilt engine it becomes less likely that they will form the proper seal - hence the o-rings.

I noticed you're using the '91 cylinders on your build. I have the same type of cylinders on my 3.3 w/3.3 heads. They're weeping between the head and cylinder. These cylinders have a habit of leaking (slightly), mostly due to the amount of surface area between the head and cylinder. I had a post on this site as to what can be done to remedy. Steve@Rennsport replied there's not much that can be done except to disassemble and and have the heads and cylinders ringed. He stated he's done this many times on these cylinders with fantastic results.
To rule out the rocker shafts, I pretty much used the ol' white glove technique. Use a white glove or white cloth and touch the ares outside the rocker shaft. If there's oil, it will show.

My leaks are leaking more than slightly, i could never drive it around for a day, and forget about using the heater boxes, after driving the car for a half hour or so the bottom and engine case are very wet and drippy.

did you use the green viton o-rings that go in the spigot bores of the C2 930 cylinders?