Engine/Transmission

PorschePassion · 08-13-2006, 04:03 PM

Greetings - I am attemping my first engine rebuild and have removed the engine from the car. Unfortunately, the transmission will not let go. All 4 bolts have been removed. and the trans wiggs but seems to be stuck on something inside.
Could it be the throwout bearing and clutch fork? And at wits end.

Any helpo would be great.
Thanks

CliffBrown · 08-13-2006, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by PorschePassion
Could it be the throwout bearing and clutch fork? And at wits end.

You got it. Disconnect the arm on the underside of the tranny.

Do a search on this forum, lot's of help in the archives.

Eagledriver · 08-13-2006, 08:17 PM

It would help if you gave us more info such as year and model. There are different methods depending on year.

-Andy

PorschePassion · 08-14-2006, 03:19 AM

It is a 1986 Porsche 911 Cabriolet 90,000 miles. I am absoluetly in love with the car and want to rebuild the engine for many error free miles to come. Tis smoking a tad too much at stop lights on acceleration.

jpnovak · 08-14-2006, 06:38 AM

should be a 915 tranny. Did you rotate the throwout bearing 90 deg to release the shift fork?

al lkosmal · 08-14-2006, 08:08 AM

Yes,
You have to remove the actuator arm from the underside of the tranny. There is a circlip holding it on that is easy to remove with a flat-bladed screwdriver (do it easy so that it doesn't shoot across the floor) Remove the circlip and slide the actuator arm off of the splined shaft. You then will be able to remove the tranny.

regards,

Al

PorschePassion · 08-14-2006, 10:08 AM

WAHOOOO - Thank You all for your input. I will give it the old college try tonight.

When I get it removed from the engine I have a typical american engine stand. Has anyone use this before successfully?

slotcar · 08-14-2006, 10:27 AM

Wow...sounds like your jumping right in! It might be helpful to read up a little before going to far....it could save you money and headaches down the road. Wayne has an excellent book that I would encourage you to read from cover to cover (it's sold on this site and at bookstores).....One of the topics covered is the use of a stand....I would not use a traditional stand w/out the adapter collar/ring. They are $150 bucks and bolt to a standard stand or you could buy the entire engine yolk... Best of luck to you...ask many questions

Alan.UK · 08-14-2006, 11:38 AM

Slotcar is right, get the proper Porsche yoke it will make the rebuild easier. Very useful for gearboxes as well.

Since this photo was taken I changed the stand to a twin leg one. Much more stable and should be considered a must.

Good luck

Alan

MBEngineering · 08-14-2006, 11:53 AM

HI alan uk nice photo of your engine stand/engine holder, i was wondering where you got it from??

.

regards mike

Alan.UK · 08-14-2006, 12:15 PM

Hi Mike,

The yoke is great, works perfectly. To be honest I have not stopped using it.

Speak soon

Alan

hcoles · 08-16-2006, 07:05 AM

ditto....get the Wayne book and pretty much read and understand every sentence... I hate to say it but unless you are a very experienced mechanic there are many ways to mess up. It is very satisfying to get everything back together and run smoothly with no leaks...for me staying organized and keeping all nuts/bolts in labeled bags was key and still hard to keep myself organized...the pros no what every bolt looks like and where it goes....you may not... good luck... lots of expert help on this forum

PorschePassion · 08-16-2006, 07:51 AM

Actually, I have all the books: Haynes, W.D. 101 Projects and Engine Rebuilding, Bentley, etc...
I have read them all from cover to cover repeatedly. I turned my garage into a "cleanroom".

I have rebuilt many cars. I love the Porsche engine because it is such a challenge and the overall engineering is remarkable.

snowman · 07:50 PM

Read carfully. A Porsche is NOT any other car.

Also I would get with a machine shop that does a lot of Porsches. Do a search for Porsche machine shops for leads. There are many updates that are not mentioned in some books that may need doing. Ollies in Santa Ana, CA is one of the best.

PorschePassion · 08-18-2006, 03:03 AM

Once my heads are off and inspected, I will be sending them to Anchor Atlantic. I have done some research on this forum and have been impressed with the responses to the company and also what they include in the rebuilding. I would love to do them myslef but hae to give-up the control and have the experts complete the task.

snowman · 08-18-2006, 07:27 PM

Puzzle to me. Heads are the most important for HP. THey are also the most simple to do. As to the valves all you have to do is to have good guides, the rest is very simple porting, if any, as Porsche heads are excellent to begin with. A good 3 angle valve job and you are off and running.

The bottom end is another thing. Oil mods, mods for good venting, good air flow between cylinders, nuff oil for rods at high rpm, nuff oil cooling, nuff oil for squirters. Rod bolts? Good rods, ie shot peened, good bolts, or Carillo rods and associated bolts. Mostly oil flow.

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by snowman
Puzzle to me. Heads are the most important for HP. THey are also the most simple to do. As to the valves all you have to do is to have good guides, the rest is very simple porting, if any, as Porsche heads are excellent to begin with. A good 3 angle valve job and you are off and running.

Puzzled? I think you are forgetting that not everyone has the run of a machine shop like you do Snow.

Most of us don't have access to a lathe with the correct fixture for cleaning up the head sealing surface, the tool for checking the valve spring strength, etc. so it's easier to have a pro do it.
Years ago I checked to see what the local machinist (who did Porsche heads on occasion) would charge and Anchor Atlantic could do the whole job (2 day turnaround!) for about the same price as the local machinst would charge for just machining (no assembly, disassembly, setting valve spring height, etc).

As for his 3.2 heads, they are great right out of the box (they will flow enough for 300hp I'm told) so it makes little $ sense to modify them especially for a stock car.

-Chris

snowman · 04:13 PM

Tips for getting Porsche engines redone.

A Porsche is not any other car. Other cars usually need extensive head work, a Porsche does not, in general. Just refinish to original specs.

Other cars have simple bottom ends that usually only need good rod bolts. A Porsche may need extensive bottom end work as previously noted. Many important updates required, eg tensioners.

A Porsche is an oil cooled engine, (hot oil transfers heat to cooler or case and then to air) Some air cooling around cylinders as well. Other engines are mostly water cooled.

NEVER let a Chevy guy work on a Porsche.

Only use one of the top 3 or 4 Porsche Machine shops. Search for Porsche Machine shops on this forum for names of these shops.

Never let a Ford guy work on a Porsche.

Never let a Chrysler guy work on a Porsche.