Nice!
Feels like christmas!

kirk

The bearing surfaces of number eight looked so good that I have
decided to reuse it. Here the new seal is about to go in and the
receiving surface is coated with Curil T. That notch in the bearing
catches the rubber edge of the seal and neatly peals it away. I
noticed that the old seal had the same flap pealed back and
there was no leakage past that spot.
The old o-ring is still in place in this photo, and I noticed that the
new one is the green variety. I plan to follow the generally
accepted practice of using the Japanese, Three Bond silicone
product 1211 to help seal around this o-ring, though I really have
doubts about the practice. Fellows with far more experience than
I are recommending it………..so I have a tube of the stuff.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166403540.jpg

I think its pretty common to reuse #8, unless there is something drastically wrong with it. I used the 1211 as well.

So far no leaks.


Kirk

The lay shaft end has a plug, retained as seen, and already
threaded for easy removal. Inside I found it to be much cleaner
than expected. Only oil really, but better to check for I am told
that they can be nasty and that shaft is the oil feed for the shaft
end bearing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482384.jpg

So it is 0930 and no reason to delay………lay out all that I think
will be needed, and nothing that will just be a distraction. The
chain and rod holders were made from 18 ga. sheet steel
according to the dimensions in Wayne’s book.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482443.jpg

The clock is already running now, for the number eight bearing o-
ring has Three Bond 1211 around it. I noted when the engine
came apart, that the factory seems to have decided the oil pump
lock tabs are not needed. This engine had only washers and
locking nuts. The tabs were included in the gasket set though so
……I paid for them, I am using them!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482520.jpg

Another deviation from stock/standard seen here. I am using
Loctite 574 on the webs and Three Bond 1104 case sealer
around the perimeter. Cut down acid brushes were used for
both. Put the 574 on first (and it isn’t easy to get on anything
like “thin and even”. Then put on the 1104 last as it starts to
skin over fairly quickly. The clock is really running now!
My approach was to do nothing that isn’t absolutely necessary at
this point in the game. I didn’t bother with the flywheel oil seal,
and I put the through bolts in dry and with no o-rings. Just get
the case halves together as quickly as possibly. Then tighten the
through bolts to approximately 35 ft-lb. followed by the 8 mm
lock nuts to final torque. Work deliberately but quickly. This way,
the time from the first brush stroke till the last nut was tightened
down worked out at 35 minutes.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482613.jpg

The sealants extruded past the case seams look to be about
right. You want to clean the excess now, because that 1104
does start to set quickly. Lacquer thinner is what I used.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482671.jpg

Now, with no time pressure from sealants setting up, I took the
through bolts back out one at a time and carefully fitted them
with the o-rings and Dow Corning 111 for the lubricant. The
threads and nut faces got a smear of anti-seize and were then
tightened to final torque, in the prescribed sequence.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482732.jpg

Case Closed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482799.jpg

Bravo! Nice work, and I think skipping the o-rings was a good idea to get it all snugged down.

This thread began with a consideration of the original, Dilavar
head studs, and an eventual decision to change them out for
steel studs. Here they are. These are the SUPERTEC studs, and
they can be ordered in a full set seen in the photo from our host,
Pelican Parts.
There are other fine head studs available from race houses and
specialists, but I decided these were the best of the lot for my
use. Notice that they use 12 point nuts and hardened washers.
This effectively eliminates any concerns with stud lengths.
Remember the problems some engines had with the studs being
too long - not leaving sufficient grip space in the barrel nuts.
Also these studs have 10 x 1.50 course threads on one end to
match the original threads in the case, but on the head ends they
are threaded in 10 x 1.25. That fine thread should produce more
even torque when they are tightened down. The instructions
advise 32 pounds for standard 964 engines like this one, and a
few pounds more for the turbo models.

A well thought out stud design, and typical for Henry Schmidt.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166561661.jpg


This photo is a disappointment reminder. I recently purchased
that tool, P 234, in hopes of a more satisfying method for
changing the flywheel oil seal. It is listed as the right tool for 911
through 1994………but isn’t. On the 964 it is useless, and doesn’t
even match the seal size, which can be seen in the photo. So,
one day I will try to recover some of the cost on eBay, as it is a
nice tool – and probably will work fine on 9 bolt cranks prior to
964.

As it is I had to put the seal in the usual way………a hammer.

Question……..does anyone know of a tool which will actually work
on the 964 oil seals? BTW, the tool listed in the workshop
manual for the pulley end oil seal (P 216) is also useless on this
engine type.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166561779.jpg

READY TO BREAK OUT THE PISTONS AND CYLINDERS

All the oil regulator and relief valves, senders and breather cover
are back on now. I used the Loctite penetrating sealant around
all the case plugs. Interestingly the manual recommends Loctite
270 for the two big oil line adaptors, BUT what they actually used
on this engine was the higher-strength green stuff. I followed
their example rather than their advice.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166561838.jpg

Where did you buy the tools from and did they come in a box with a Porsche part number, the Porsche P-Triangle trademark and the warehouse barcode? I had planned to buy the RMS installer and I've seen knock-offs but now I'm wondering if the copies aren't exactly correct? It seems kinda unusual for Porsche to sell a tool for the 964 that doesn't work properly.

HI JW the flywheel oil seal tool is 000 721 912 60 as below.

regards mike
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166614697.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166614940.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166615040.jpg .

the tool you have looks like a 6 bolt early crank oil seal tool . if you would like to part company with it , I would like to own it?

regards mike

Many thinks Mike,
The workshop manual does show 9126 as the right tool for
the 964 flywheel seal. I was not convinced though, because it
also lists 216a on the same page as the correct tool for the pulley
end, and I know that one doesn't work on a 964.

You have solved the flywheel end, and I will get a 9126. Any
thoughts on the pulley seal tool?

The P234 I now have, has a S over T stamped in, so perhaps
it is from Sir Tools. I just went to their site, and the tool is listed
there for $149.00. The one I have came from the host, Pelican
Parts site, for $120.60. Would you be interested at, say, half
that price; that is $60.00 and whatever it costs to mail it?

HI JW the tool in the photo is being shipped to "CA 95023" in the new year , would it be any advantage for him to ship it to you when he has finished with it??, if so can you PM me your snail mail add and I will put a note in the box to forward it on and send the $ for your other tool + shipping. The 216 is also for the early engine , the 216a is for the 3.6 engine, part No' 000 721 216 10 .

regards mike

No Mike, that would be no advantage. I already have the seal
in place and have ordered the 9126 for future use.

Just send your address by personal e-mail and I will get the P234
off to you. Wait until I ship it and I will give you the postage cost.

I do have a P216a tool, and it is the genuine article. It will not
press a 964 pulley seal in though, because of that extended
taper on the crank nose, to take the vibration damper.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166641715.jpg
A week has passed now without a response from Mike of
MBENGINEERING so I will take it that you do not actually want
the P234 tooling. Good thing too, for I have determined after
further research that the tool is appropriate also for the 964 and
later engines right up to '94. The problem with this particular tool
is only one of slightly off-set holes, which I can easily correct.
I consider the matter closed.

The new piston/pin combinations vary from lightest to heaviest by
2.9 grams. For my purposes I am going to accept that deviation
and position the heaviest combinations at the load end (3 and 6
cylinders).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166644612.jpg

Looks xtra nice, But I have to ask, Are you working in your frickin kitchen, obviously not married..:D

Well, sometimes our wives go out of town...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166648996.jpg

That's not the kitchen Craig........it's the bar. Some among us are
more than a little strange!

These pistons look to be absolutely symmetrical to me, with no
difference on the intake and exhaust sides. No arrows or up
marks could be seen, so I set them in with the lettering at the
top.
Oil ring gaps are at 12 o’clock and the compression gaps are at 9
and 3.
One interesting note in the manual – “Wrist pins must remain
allocated to the corresponding piston. Do not mix with parts from
another cylinder”. This contradicts the advice in Wayne’s book
to “couple the heavier pistons with the lighter pins”. Anyone
have more information on this point? I decided Porsche must
have a reason for their warning, so I didn’t mix them. The pins
were all very close in weight anyway, so wouldn’t have balanced
the pistons even if I did mix them.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166649885.jpg

This has nothing to do with the rebuild – but perhaps someone
will be interested.
I never have liked those index marks on the oil temp gauge. On
the older cars it was possible to get a temp. gauge insert from
the early 911 models with actual temperature markings. Not so
for the 964 cars.

I just got this back from: SPEEDOMETER PLUS
WEST L.A., CALIF.
310 838 7344

My old faceplate was faded from the sun. So this is a new
faceplate with calibrated temperature markings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166651942.jpg

OK. Things are ready to go on the engine. I used assembly lube
on the rod bushings and Dow Corning 111 on the green o-rings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740267.jpg
Borrowed the kitchen supply of plastic wrap.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740323.jpg

First order of business was to get one snap ring into each piston,
and for that job I had picked up a while back the Porsche 9500
and 9500/1 set. If you try this, you will find that the tool will not
work as right-out-of-the-box. The piston pin boss has changed
since the tool was designed and so now the aperture or window
seen here is too small.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740398.jpg
I used a small angle grinder with cut-off wheel to really open the
window. You don’t need to take out as much as I have done, but
it is easier to position the tool this way. Quick dip in blackening
fluid to prevent rust, accounts for the grinding marks not showing
up too well in the photo, but compare the window with that first
shot.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740478.jpg
In practice, I really do like this tool. Sometimes, even a rarely-
used item can be worth the expense. What happens is the snap-
ring is compressed as you force it to the bottom of the slightly
funnel-shaped sleeve bore. Then with the mandrel inside the
piston pin, there is little chance of losing a snap-ring down into
the engine innards. It however, is a hazard from first
compressing the ring into the sleeve, until set up as in the
photo. Porsche warns one to wear safety glasses for good
reason. Today though, the piston snap-rings went in without any
fuss whatsoever. No missiles flying around……..no searching the
floor for rings across the room……and none of that bad language.

One tap with the hammer and they are in place, every time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740596.jpg
Put the pulley side snap-ring in first, on all pistons. Then install
then on the engine in order 1-2-3-4-5-6.
I do note that these pistons have a flat surface around the top
edges, just sufficient to measure with a caliper. As best I can tell,
the deck height is right at 1.25 mm, but I see nothing in the spec
book to confirm whether this is in the ballpark.
This is it on the engine for a while as I sent one of the heads to
fellow Pelican, Chris Sokolowski, to use as a model in designing a
broken exhaust stud tool. Some may already know that Chris
has this tool for earlier 911 engines and hopefully we will soon
have the tool, if needed, for 964 types. I told Chris to take his
time so will get along with come other chores while waiting for
the head.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740724.jpg

That tool 9500 was something I really wanted a few weeks ago! Glad to see that it works well in practice.

Yes it does Chris, once you modify the window.

BTW, I noticed on your rebuild site that you seem to be using a
ATV or motorcycle lift to get the engine in and out. Did that work
as well as it looks to do? Looks like you even used it to lift the engine
for the stand yoke.