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Carburatori Bellissimo! Restored Weber IDA3C

Look what just arrived in the mail from Harry Bieker, whose contact information is Bieker Engineering, 5215 Rogue River Hwy, Grants Pass, OR 97527-4449, where the phone number is (541) 955-9777.







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Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13)
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Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04)
Old 09-25-2007, 04:13 AM
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'66 911 #304065 Irischgruen
Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13)
Ex-'88 Carrera (Sold 3/29/02)
Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04)
Old 09-25-2007, 04:16 AM
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A few notes:

1) Note adjustable accelerator pump linkage. The original was non-adjustable and is NLA, this is a meaningful compromise for webers.

2) I have to get some brass lock wire for the jet carrier plugs, you can see they aren't safety wired.

3) Obviously the banjo fittings are loosely on there, there's a fuel hose that goes between them.

4) Bores were machined and new throttle plates and shafts fitted.

I still have to pull the jets, I have some new ones and a Weber jet gauge to verify that everything is at the baseline before I start.

Suggestions welcome!
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'66 911 #304065 Irischgruen
Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13)
Ex-'88 Carrera (Sold 3/29/02)
Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04)
Old 09-25-2007, 04:20 AM
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My suggestion John is that you finish that engine and put it on a stand and build a separate engine to be used.

It is beautiful..... You have me rethinking my strategy with my 69S; I don't want to restore it to keep the patina (older restoration 21 years ago).

I've been saving my car money for the project daily driver but you are like the devil on my left shoulder.......
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Old 09-25-2007, 06:20 AM
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I've been saving my car money for the project daily driver but you are like the devil on my left shoulder.......
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No kidding. John's project is truly amazing. Just looking at the different parts is a real joy.

John, when you say that the bores were machined, and new throttle plates fitted; Are they larger than the originals? I know that the throttle shaft size increases, but what happens when they machine the bore?
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Old 09-25-2007, 08:40 AM
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nice countertop.
oh the carbs are nice too
is that cad plating or paint?
bob
Old 09-25-2007, 09:41 AM
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Jon, I think Bieker takes them out maybe 0.5mm? Or perhaps not even that much, I had a discussion with him that if you machine too much you end up oversizing the progression holes.

Bob, that's actually a pink granite surface plate, Grade AA. I got the plate at a surplus auction and it cost me $473,000 to have it shipped UPS. Just kidding, the hardware has all been plated gold zinc, which is very similar in appearance to yellow cad.

Gents, remember the old phrase, "Lead me not into temptation, I can find it myself."
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Ex-'88 Carrera (Sold 3/29/02)
Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04)
Old 09-25-2007, 11:34 AM
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Very nice!!
Got any before pics?

And I'll be the rude one, (since I have a pair that could use that) how much$$, and what did it include?
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Old 09-25-2007, 12:58 PM
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John

Bellissimo indeed. Wish mine would stay even half-way clean in use.

Why do you think you need to safety wire the main jet carriers? I change jets quite a bit (twice on my last race weekend, based on what the air density meter said and how the EGTs looked), and only once did I fail to get all the carriers seated tightly enough. Amazing how quickly how much fuel can pump through that hole (luckily, no fire, the engine just quit from fuel starvation, and I had spares). After that I always go over all six again with my wrench to give that extra little tug and make sure I didn't miss one. The copper crush washers are very well crushed, but seem to do the job still.

Though mine is a track only engine. Is yours for the street?

And why brass safety wire?

Walt Fricke
Old 09-25-2007, 05:37 PM
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I think the brass is because brass is a soft metal and most other safety wires would cause galvanic corrosion due to dis-similar metals.
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Old 09-25-2007, 06:12 PM
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I'm using some very fine stainless wire. So far, no problems.
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:24 PM
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Just out of curiosity, I have a set of early Webers taken from my 914-6 and the model number is:

40IDTP13C1
1925

What is the difference between the IDA and IDT carbs? I parted out the engine and I plan on getting rid of these in the near future as well. They are the early casting as shown on this thread.

Thanks,
Bob
Old 09-25-2007, 07:47 PM
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Here's just a tip for all of you that choose H.G. Bieker to rebuild your carbs.
The way he gets them looking so clean is to bead blast them. The last set we got from Harry still had a large quantity of glass bead in them when they were returned to us.
When we got them back we put them straight on a car that was having smog issues and much to our surprise the car ran very poorly. We diagnosed the problem as being carburetor related so we disassembled the carbs only to find a plethora of glass bead. When I called Harry with the our findings he told me we must have a fuel contamination problem.
Sure enough we didn't.
Harry does a nice job but I recommend a thorough cleaning before installing his work on your engine. Our issue may have been a one time occurrence but cleaning is easy to do and well worth the peace of mind.
I will say that they worked perfectly after they were cleaned.
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Last edited by Henry Schmidt; 09-26-2007 at 06:21 AM..
Old 09-26-2007, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Fricke View Post
John

Why do you think you need to safety wire the main jet carriers?

And why brass safety wire?
Walt,

When I said "jet carrier" I was wrong, I meant the lock screw that holds the choke in place. It had brass safety wire on it when I got the car so I figured that was the "correct" stuff to use for show. Stainless would work also but the stuff I've got is left over from when I owned an airplane, it's pretty big OD.

Here's an illustration of what I mean.

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Old 09-26-2007, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt View Post
Here's just a tip for all of you that choose H.G. Bieker to rebuild your carbs.
The way he gets them looking so clean is to bead blast them. The last set we got from Harry still had a large quantity of glass bead in them when they were returned to us.
When we got them back we put them straight on a car that was having smog issues and much to our surprise the car ran very poorly. We diagnosed the problem as being carburetor related so we disassembled the carbs only to find a plethora of glass bead. When I called Harry with the our findings he told me we must have a fuel contamination problem.
Sure enough we didn't.
Harry does a nice job but I recommend a thorough cleaning before installing his work on your engine. Our issue may have been a one time occurrence but cleaning is easy to do and well worth the peace of mind.
I will say that they worked perfectly after they were cleaned.
True, he does glass bead.

Where did you find the debris? In the float bowl I assume? I actually DO plan to take the tops off these to look at the chokes but I'm wondering where to focus. Or will it be obvious?
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Old 09-26-2007, 06:36 AM
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Unfortunately our contamination issue was systemic.
We even found glass bead was packed in two of four needle valves. This was somewhat troubling because that indicated to us that the needle/seats were only blasted and not replaced. Of course we replaced them and went about the business of tuning for smog. Quite a task when you're dealing with a carburated engine.

BTW:
I think it only fair to mention that our problem was quite a few years ago and it's quite possible that Harry has a new system that will prevent this type of oversight.
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Old 09-26-2007, 06:47 AM
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We have stopped using glass bead as we have found that it can stick in the surface and I am not convinced that ultrasonic cleaning would be good for the blanking plugs but I amy be over cautious.

We have been using a local guy with a dry ice blasting system that gives great results and no real possibility of contamination. It is a bit expensive so we now plan to try Soda Blasting as the media is wqter soluble and will easily dissolve in a dish washer cycle.
Old 09-26-2007, 10:38 AM
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:17 PM
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John - if my venturi lock screws had had brass wire when I got my carbs, I bet I'd have been looking for brass too! I have used whatever safety wire is (stainless?). But the track car doesn't see the rain (slicks, no rain tires, open car, not worth it, and it seldom rains in Colorado) to aid in any galvanic action.

Others - I had great results using baking soda, a cheap blasting gun, and my driveway cleaning an aluminum tranny case. I bet it would work well on a carb, and be a lot quicker. It didn't hurt my ungloved hand when I blasted that, but my compressor hardly keeps up a high pressure doing this (probably a good thing for me). Bit of a mess, went away with a hose, hope it didn't pollute any streams.

Walt
Old 09-26-2007, 09:58 PM
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Clean once, twice, and three times. Someone once told me that engine building is mostly cleaning, followed by measuring :-) I have had many 356 customers use Harry over the years for the wonderful work he does with P40 solexes and they have all been very pleased. I'm also guilty as charged, I don't clean my Nickies cylinders prior to shipping, but do recommend using chem wipes and denatured alcohol and cleaning until the wipes come out as bright white as they come in!
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:19 AM
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