Well, my case does not look quite that nice, but I`ll get there...I got a propane torch today.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193098640.jpg

Aurel

is this the begining of MAP gas work on head studs.................. drum roll please...

my 2cents worth... peace of mind is only an issue if you plan to keep the piece for a mind = if you want to keep er' for 1+ yrs/3k+ miles, it will be a selling feature that it ALL was checked and what was needed was replaced. I have not done this as of yet, just my thoughts. I do have 3 engines about to go under the knife for different builds though which means zippo since I am still wet behind the ears as far as porsche engine building goes...but us BOTH have the Pelican board to hopefully save our buts if needed... :-)
Bob

I played with the torch tonight, and I got eight divilar studs without a fight. One unbroken is more tenacious, and the three left are the broken ones. My confidence is up, but I am not sure how big of a flame is best for really heating up the case...it did not get red at all, for the eight studs that gave up.

Aurel

If you have a welder you can weld nuts onto the broken studs. Makes quick work of them. The heat from the welding releases the loctite and the nut gives you something to grab.

-Andy

When you say that the metal did not get red, are you talking about the studs or the case. Aluminum will not get red and if your using a small plumbers torch I don't think you can overheat the case. I remember reading that you can hold the torch on the inside of the spigot for like ten minutes without overheating but I could be wrong.

Propane is not as hot as MAPP...

I got all the unbroken studs with the propane torch. Now, for the broken ones, two have over half an inch left. I am looking for the best possible tool to grab them. Has anyone tried one of those?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193277723.jpg
Aurel

no, but I've heard that when you are heating the case around the stud, if you have someone continously apply torque to the stud, you can feel it come loose.. this avoids more heat than necessary... I was lucky...the machinist came over to my house and brought his Snap-On stud grabber tool that looked about 50 years old and used 1000 times, and 2 foot long wrenches and they all came right out.. we had the Mapp gas ready but didn't really need it. I replaced what I had with all new steel.

Aurel,

I have the tool you pictured but I also purchased a collet that you tighten down on studs. It worked great and can get close to the case. I got it at thetoolwarehouse.net http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193311792.jpg

I'll get that tool, it looks like what I need;
Update: Bob from Atlantic Anchor sent me some pictures of two corroded valve seats he is going to replace. I bet the corrosion, which also caused the headstuds to break, occured when I was driving the Porsche on my five minute commute to work at my previous job. That was a dumb thing to do, because oil did not get hot enough and must have trapped water; Little did I know at that time...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1194169912.jpg

Aurel

I would be surprized if water sat on the seat causing the "corrosion" shown. All those parts get hot in seconds if not sooner.. Also I don't think some water trapped in the oil would cause the head studs to break. Was the stud that broke Dilvar?

had both models from Snap-On. Not the finest tool for the job imo.

I line bored case at Competition Engineering after splitting it. I believe it can be a tricky operation on our engines.


good luck

Little update:

I got the two tools depicted above, and was able to remove only one broken stud. There are two left in the case. It looks like I am going to have to go the nut welding route. And since those are divilar studs, I have read that only TIG welding will work. Has anyone had luck with MIG welding? I am also looking for a machine shop in my area that could extract those...close enough so I can avoid shipping the case.

Aurel

I'd look for a Porsche machine shop....you kill two birds with one stone. Have the studs removed, inspect the case, clean and do the oil squirters, etc. Even in Dallas, TX, a decent-sized city obviously, I ended up shipping all of my stuff to SoCal.

Verdon Tool and Die, in Blackrock? NJ is very good with Porsche engines... I have the address at the shop

All right Tim, stop spreading disinformation! :) :) :)

Verden Tool & Manufacturing Company 121 E Blackwell Street Dover NJ (973) 366-7510

Victory ! I extracted the three little bastards...and, in the process, I made a major Porsche discovery: I found the ultimate weapon to extract studs that are broken very close to the case, with no need to weld a nut: you buy a $14.99 nut extractor set from Sears, and the #2 grabs the broken stud and never lets it until it is extracted. The more you torque, the more it grabs. This is a lot better than the two tools discussed before, because it can get very close to the case, and does not interfere with anything in tight spaces. Wish I had gotten that from the start.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1195333933.jpg

Aurel

Aurel,

Looking at the Sear web site I can't see this tool, what the Sears item# ~~~~~~~~~ Mfr. model# ~~~~~.

thanks
Ian

It is craftsman Power bolt-out #52168

I have that same set and used them with )mostly) success. I still had one that turned into a near disaster..... But, I was due......

Cheers