Spray pattern looks symetrical, although it is hard to really compare because it blows real fast. As for the university equipment, it is ours, bought by our research grants or donated by our previous company. The university does not give us anything, just empty space for rent. Therefore, I can use it how I please, on the time I pay myself for my research ;).

Aurel

You are making good progress.

If'n it was me, I'd put it togeather and before I fire it up test the injectors by putting them in 6 glasses and run em for 1/2 glass full. Compare and if one seems bad, swap it and test again. That will tell you if you have a bad injector.

I am getting closer and closer...I estimate I am about $200 away from completion now. Little stuff like hoses, sound pad, accelerator bushings, etc. I managed to reconnect the gearbox and put the motor back on the ATV cart all by myself tonight. Gotta work on the engine compartment tomorrow :).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208573950.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208573971.jpg
Aurel

HI Aurel
Do not forget the oil breather pipe on the top of the engine and turn the exhaust clamp round before you fit the engine, 1 it will catch the rear valance under the bumper when you fit the engine and 2 you will not be able to remove it when you have the engine in.

regards mike

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the exhaust clamp. It is nice to have another set of eyes watching for my errors! The oil breather hose was dried, it is on my last order list.

Regards,

Aurel

Now you have no reason not to paint the car! :)

Yup...funny where a few broken headstuds can get you :cool:.

Now, I have a few questions:
#1:On the picture below, there is a black connector from the wiring harness that I have no idea where it goes. I was pretty good at marking everything, but this one was unmarked. Maybe because it was not connected in the first place. What is it? Anybody got an idea?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208703169.jpg

#2. I need to replace one of my heat exchanger to fllapper box hoses. I want to match the good one, but I do not know if what I have is the OEM or the "space age" pelican sells. Below is a pic of the good one:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208703314.jpg

Thanks guys,

Aurel

HI Aurel

this is a UK 3.0lt engine with the black connector hanging out the back like yours
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208704368.jpg

it fits on the AAV hear. Your wiring loom should go under the intake manifold and not round the back of the engine, should come out near the No'1 intake manifold runner, to plug on to the 14 pin connector?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208704396.jpg

in there on the black connection
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208704419.jpg

the heater pipe you require is red heat resistant, the one on your car looks black?, and should be this length for your Pass' side and shorter for your Drivers side to fit on the temp sensor connector for the heater control.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208704441.jpg

the is a after market one we get over hear and the Porsche part No' is below the Euro car parts No'
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208704462.jpg

regards mike

Got it. Mike, you`re da man !

Aurel

Well, that is it, the motor is back in the car. I`ll fire up tomorrow if all goes well. I still have a few things to connect. I am wondering where to plug the connector in the second picture, and I have no clue what connects to the two connectors on the corners of the car like the one on the third picture. Any help will be appreciated!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209850532.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209850550.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209850593.jpg

Aurel

The three pronged plug in the second picture is for an old style voltage regulator. Looks like you updated. Cover it up with tape and if the little green (or is it red) light goes out on the instrument panel you are chargeing.

Remember to turn it over with the starter withoiut starting until you get oil pressure. Leave out the fuel pump relay. Also don't forget to charge the fuel system. Remove the line to the WUR and raise the lever in the air box and when you get fuel, hook it back and go driving.

Congratulations are in order! Good for you.

Do you remember if the machinist left any marks on the cylinder heads to address the amount machined? Just wondering, since I am in the process of rebuilding my 1978 911SC 3.0L.

Have fun with the car on it's second-in-life first drive and break-in.SmileWavy

+1. Great thread. Congrats.

The machinist took 0.01" off the heads, and he stamped that number on them.

Aurel

Need your help again...Hoses are as much trouble for me as hoes are for gov. Spitzer !
In the picture below, there is a ~1 ft hose, 5 mm diam. that connect to the T black plastic connector one the side indicated by an arrow. Where does this hose go ?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209905376.jpg

Aurel

So, I filed with 9.5 quarts of 10W30 castrol GTX, and started cranking. All sounds normal, the green light went off, the pressure indicated went up to ~ 1. Is that enough?

I am not firing yet, because I have 2 issues:
- I still don`t know where to connect one CIS hose (see above).
- I have only 0.5 gallons (4 pints) of swepco 201 in my gearbox. Do I risk to damage it if I go drive like that (it was just rebuild, and the mechanics said to put 7 pints in it).

I am itching to fire it up, but I don`t want to screw things up so close...

Aurel

Hope these help.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209918793.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209918816.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209918836.jpg

No. Don't drive except to reposition car until your txmn is filled. If you are having trouble getting the fluid up there, head for your chem lab and borrow a beaker and rubber stopper with two holes. Fill the beaker 1/2 full then hook a hose to one into the txmn and put compressed air into the other. Go slow so you don't blow the hose out of the txmn and put sticky fluid all over the place.

Thanks, John. On your pictures, you do not have that T connector I have, and most pics and diagrams have seen don`t have it either, so I still need to figure that one out. I do have the pump for filling the gearbox, just need more swepco.
I could try to start it, and do a static break-in, but with rering alusils, I read best results are obtained by driving the piss out them right away, so I should wait.
Would it hurt to just try and see if it fires up, then shut it off immediately...?

Aurel

I would fill the tranny before starting the engine.

Sorry - not 100% sure about that hose.

Allright, that hose connects to a hidden nipple on the cruise control servo. Got the answer on the big technical forum.

Aurel

John (oldTEE)

I tried to fire it up, but I get no fuel at the injectors. I tried to prime the system, and no luck. Can you give me more details on the procedure? You disconnect the WUR, lift the air sensor plate and crank the motor? For how long? Damn, I hope that old CIS is not going to let me down...

Aurel

Careful here you could fill a cyl with fuel and lock up the engine. Break the fuel line from the fuel distributor to the WRU. 14mm I think. Then turn on the ignition, then lift the sensor plate. You will hear the fuel pump go. When fuel comes from the line you removed, replace it. The system should now be primed and should fire, all things equal, after a couple of rurrrrs, rurrrs.

Otherwise something else is amiss. To run you need fuel, fire and air. Check for spark. Leave the air filter off for the moment.

Sounds like you have good oil pressure with 1 bar during cranking.

OK I`ll try again. When you say turn on the ignition, you mean without cranking, right?

Aurel

No cranking needed, the fuel pump will do the work.

Did I say to put the fuel relay back in.

You don't crank the engine to pressurize the fuel system.

Check for leaks.

Let us know when it fires.

So, when I tried to disconnect the fuel line to the WUR , fuel came out of it, so it seems primed. But, when I disconnect an injector and place it in a jar then crank, there is no fuel coming out of it(I tried two injectors). Also, when I lift the sensor plate, I really don`t hear anything going on???

Aurel

And yes, I put the fuel relay back in.

Aurel

Cranking does nothing. If you raise the sensor plate you should hear the fuel pump. (Ignition on, relay in, fuel in tank (don't laugh, it happend to me once)). You might crack the fuel line (the one right above and behind #3 cylinder. The puel pump puts out about 80lbs so you should get a spry. One second should do it. Maybe a blockage somewhere. Check your fuses.

I do not hear the fuel pump at all, so maybe an electrical issue. Where is the fuel pump, BTW? Are there two, one in the front and one in the back? I am going to have to look into that...unfortunately, the car is not going to run tonight. At least I had good oil pressure, and that motor sure looks better than before :).

Aurelhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209948990.jpg

Aurel

I don't think the fuel pump is supposed to run unless the engine is running. If your fuel pump runs with the ignition key turned, something is wrong.

You can jump the fuel pump relay and turn the ignition key on in order to get the fuel pump running without the engine running. This is how you would perform fuel pressure tests.

Let me know if you need further help with this. See page 240-11 in the Bentley.

With the key on, you should hear the CDI box humming. Do you get spark at one of the plugs?

You mention no gas at the injectors. With the ignition key in the on position and the air filter out, reach in and gently lift the flapper valve. You will then hear the gas pump start (it is located under the car near the steering rack - covered by a skid plate). You should then see gas coming out of the injectors. Note - with CIS all injectors will constantly spray gas when the pump is running. Therefore, do not do this too much because the gas goes right into the cylinders when each intake opens.

I would start with this.

Charlie,

The CDI box is humming. I haven`t checked for spark yet, but since I get no fuel to the injectors, first things first. I did lift the flapper valve, and heard nothing.

Aurel

Run a jumper wire at the fuel pump relay socket. This will bypass the controls within the engine compartment. You will hear the pump when you turn the ignition key on.

The Bently manual details this procedure.

Cheers.

That is a great idea. I could also check the relay by swapping the red fuel pump one with another black one. I assume they are all identical, correct?

Aurel

black relay will work - not sure of the difference.

Red and black are not the same, red have a "quench" diode across the contacts to prevent back EMF. As such you don't want to back-wind the diode.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/63890-more-obscure-electrical-brain-teasers.html?highlight=quench+diode

I bridged terminals #30 and 87 on the fuel pump relay socket with the ignition on, and I heard nuthin...all points out to a faulty fuel pump. Maybe just seized? I also think the relay is fine, because I heard it click when I plugged it back. Now, gotta dig that fuel pump out.

Aurel

Crap - deeper issue.

When you access the pump, disconnect the wiring and apply 12 volts to it to as a last check before pulling it out.

If you replace, I would suggest to also get a new check valve - it attaches to the pump. One of those "while you are there" items.

When I replaced my fuel pump, I took it to the local euro parts store and matched the Bosch part number on the pump. It was the same as a mid 1970's VW Rabbit at 1/2 price for the Porsche pump.