Hey Aurel!
Greetings from norway. ...-Nice job!
I'm doing a rebuild myself, and this causes many sleepless nights... (As I'm sure you have discovered) ...So it is nice to see someone has been there, and knows what to do!
Hope you will get it fired up real soon..!

Good luck Otto ! I did it in 6 months, really taking my time, and it was a very enjoyable experience. Post a thread here, with lots of pictures, and you will get all the help you may need. Some of the folks on this board are really very experienced, and we all love to share what we have learnt.

Best,

Aurel

Aurel:
I just came to think of something I read in the tech artichles here.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_engine_rebuild/911_engine_rebuild1.htm ...(Scroll to the bottom)

He had a similar problem, and concludes it just takes time to get all the air out of the system, before the CIS can build up preassure to the injectors...

(But you say there is no action in the fuel pump, right?)

Tonight, I removed the belly pan to access the fuel pump, and connected the battery directly to it. I heard something, but it was a buzzing sound coming from the fuse box, not the pump. This pump is gonna have to come out...

Aurel

Sounds like the pump is tired. I would try bench testing it before dropping the cash for a replacement.

A new pump will give you peace of mind when you are enjoying a drive a 1000 miles from home.

Yes, tonight I am going to check that 12V goes to the pump when I lift the air sensor plate, and I will measure the current draw to the pump, and its internal resistance. Just made a cable for that :).

Aurel

Aurel is your fuel pump dead? Have you started your ride??

Yup, fuel pump is definitely dead. It gets the voltage and does not spin. It was on its last leg before I started the rebuild. No big deal, just more delay...

Aurel

Funny how these things happen, huh?
It worked when you started the rebuild, and when your'e finished, it quits on you..!?
-Murphy's law...

That and sitting stagnant for a few months. It's like my high pressure fuel line: fine when I tore it down for my build last year. I even had a buddy ask me if I was going to replace it. I said "no, it's fine". Buzzzzzz: wrong answer....three leaks upon my first attempt at starting. :D

I have a fuel pump from a 3.2 that
hasn't been used in years. Not sure if they interchange...?
If you want it, you are more than welcomed to it.
I'm usually down in that area once a week.

- Great thread.!. -

Thanks, I appreciate the offer, but I`ll get a new one for peace of mind. A $146 Walbro is a direct replacement, not as costly as a Bosch.

Aurel

While waiting for my new fuel pump to arrive, I repainted by bumpers with a special flexible paint for plastics. It looks a lot better now, and if this paint holds up well, I can renew all my weathered black rubber pieces like that...:).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210533093.jpg
Aurel

great thread! i was just helping a friend out sorting his CIS and pump issues, we had a similar problem - the pump was spinning, but no fuel output though we had gas and all the lines were clear. he's using a walbro too. problem? wired backwards, pumping the wrong way. funny how simple things can cause large headaches, eh?

keep us posted, of course

You know what? It's always something fundamental, huh?
SmileWavy

I have been told that these pumps often sieze up when they are left dry ( ie. did you drain the tank ? ). Apparently the idea is to keep them wet with fuel or similar.

I've had two fail when the tank was drained. One the period of time was many years, the other only a month. The latest one I connected power in reverse and it freed up, and then worked in the normal direction. You could feel the pump give a little kick when power was applied when it was siezed.

The power in reverse is a great idea, should have tried that before ordering a new one! Oh well, at 110,000 miles it was getting tired regardless.

Aurel

I'm definitely getting the impression that having a spare around is a good idea. You could always bench-test it to see if it works, and just keep it in the trunk in case the new one conks out.

Loving the thread - keep up the good work.

New pump is here, weather is cooperating (outside is better for gas fumes). I`ll be doing the surgery later today...any last minute advice?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211032343.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211032367.jpg

Aurel

Allright, the pump replacement went fine. I now have gas spraying through my injectors. I also have spark. But when I crank, nothing happens. Not a sputter, nothing. The part that worries me is that when I crank with the fuel pump relay removed, I hear a few pops through the pop-off valve??
Could my static ignition timing be so far off? Can I set it to 5deg past tdc with the timing light while someone cranking the engine with no fuel?. Or, can I try to move the distributor while someone is cranking with fuel to try to get it to start...? I cannot imagine my cam timing would be wrong, but maybe I have the distributor off by 180 deg?

Aurel

You can get the static timing close enough by eyeball when you install the dizzy. I don't remember the year of your engine but I assume an SC. Make sure you are at number 1 TDC on the firing stroke (intake valve closed fully on number 1 at TDC). Install the dizzy so the rotor is pointing at number 1 plug wire. Rotate dizzy until the magnetic wheel is exactly lined up with the magnetic pickup. The spark fires when the spoke on the wheel makes it's closest approach to the sensor. This will have your timing at TDC and will be good for a starting point. You will see that you are within a couple of degrees of TDC when you finally get it started and look with a timing light.

-Andy

On my 79 the toe of the rotor (the metal end) is pointed at a line on the edge of the dizzy. The heel (the fat part of the rotor) is pointed toward #1 Cyl. Keep pulling it out and putting it back until you get close. The adjuster nut should be mid point in the slot. That should be close enough. The TDC is the double line on the pulley with the #1 cyl at the top and both valves closed.

If it spits you have fire. Be careful not to pump too much gas into the cylinders or you could get a hydraulic loc and bend one of those pretty rods.

Okay, I had the dizzy 180 off. I turned it and and she fired. I need to fine tune now. I did not get a chance to adjust the timing with the light yet. She idles roughly but does not go beyond 2000 rpm for now.

Old Tee, hydraulic lock could basically happen to any motor that gets gas and does not fire, correct?
Or is it something specific to a newly rebuilt motor?

Regards,

Aurel

UR correct, but when working on new motor can often happen while trying to figure out what is going on. I mentioned it as a precaution and is sometimes overlooked in the excitement of the first firing. Congratulations, you have been at it for quite a while.

PS Where did you get the Kim Wipes?

I get the Kim Wipes at work :cool:.
This is getting better and better, she now starts every time and keeps idling. Now that it is getting dark, I can see with the timing light a lot better. My advance was still far off. After dinner, she`ll be purring :).

Aurel

Congrats!!!
I cannot put into words how much I look forward to that stage..!

Would you please take a video recording of the engine, and share it with us?
Again -well done!

I think the timing is best left for the pro's...
I'm gonna let a pro get my timiing right, just to be sure...!

Hi Otto,

I will certainly shoot a video of the engine running. I still have an issue with the tightness of the fan belt, I am missing one shim. Tonight, I thought the neighbors were gone, but they are here, and my garage is facing their bedroom, so I`ll finish up tomorrow...
Ignition timing is really easy with a timing light, and cam timing is not that bad either.

Aurel

Aurel, well done. Sounds like a drive is in order for tomorrow. Enjoy!!

Aurel, way to go! Well done!
Post a Picture of your new motor, I'd love to see it! :cool:

I did not get a chance to finish the ignition timing this week-end, took daughter to a circus... And I am leaving on a business trip till friday. Gotta wait till next week-end now. All I can say is I liked the way it sounded: louder and franker than before. Not too much smoke too, but I am still keeping my fingers crossed on that one.
Sabeo, there are pics above in the thread.

Aurel

Yeah sorry, I didn't catch them while I was scrolling through the thread until now. That's what I get for using a Commodore 64...

:eek:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211242164.jpg

I think I should buy a new PC when I'm done with my rebuild, if there is money left of course.. LOL!

Sabeo: That brings back memories! I tried my hand a programming one of those using their samples, and decided to stick with the first version of Microsoft Flight Sim, which is what I thought the computers would actually be best suited for. That was when I lived in the heart of Silicon Valley in the 70's. My how things have changed....

Wow ! I did not know it was possible to go online with a C64, I am impressed. Hey, I still have an 86 Apple II Europlus, if you want to upgrade ;).

Aurel

As promised, here is a video of engine startup:

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ILf1B14B04I"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ILf1B14B04I" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

But, I still have to troubleshoot a few issues. First, I had a giant oil leak that thankfully was just a cam oil line not tight enough. Second, the motor sounds loud, like the muffler is not tight, but it is. Is that the new cams? Third, I have a warm startup issue. That one is bad, because I could not take it for a ride yet. Maybe I need to add a check valve to the Walbro pump.

Aurel

Hard to tell from a video, but it sounds like you've got an exhaust leak. Maybe shoot another with the camera at the back of the car....middle, toward the LH side and then toward the RH side?

Sounds like a leak. I would check the heat exchanger connections to the heads.
Good luck!

Well, there you go, two diagnosis....one from Norway, one from S. California, both thinking you have an exhaust leak.

I agree about an exhaust leak. But for now, my problem#1 is the warm start. I cannot believe such bad luck, but it looks like my fuel accumulator is kaput too. I unscrewed the bottom, and fuel started dripping, indicating a leaking diaphragm. I hope Walbro makes a good one too...

Aurel

Actually, the Bosch FA for my year is not that bad: $134.25 at our host. It is a lot more expensive for the 80-83 models. Funny thing is, a competitor lists two models for the 80 year: one at $210, and one at $105, both Bosch. Hummm, I wonder what the difference is...And they are all 3 fitting ones that can go on my car. Which one should I pick?

Aurel

So, the cheapest fuel accumulator is for the turbo models (Bosch 0438170005 = 93011014000, $105). I wonder if that would be an upgrade for me or not. I assume that turbos have higher fuel pressure, and the fuel accumulator must be larger. Might work well with my Walbro high pressure pump (I just found out I have a 255 lph pump)...I feel on uncharted territory now.

Aurel