Assembling 1966 901/05 Engine- Phase I- Bottom End

[euro911sc]

John,

fun stuff, eh? Just a note on the cleaning of the head stud holes in the case... don't use a cutting tap. In fact, don't bother with a tap at all... just make your own out of an old stud by grooving the threaded part with a cut off wheel on a dremel.

Can't wait to see the finished machine

Best regards,

Michael

[HKZ Bob]

Originally Posted by john_cramer

Bob,

Some suggest that tightening the perimeter nuts first helps prevent oil leaks. I believe that tightening the through-bolts first is critical to establishing the bearing clearances, and the fact that the case perimeter and the main bearing webs are all in the same plane means that the sealant gets squeezed out of the perimeter anyway when you tighten them down.

I totally agree. That's what i have seen to, during a test assembley without the no. eight bearing.
For your magnesium engine, aluminum washers and M8 self-locking nuts (DIN 985) would have been standard. Be careful, there is a particular chemical composition of the washers that is required, imitations do not have the same properties and will crush and deform. Be sure to use only Porsche original parts.

I use these ones as M6 & M8 from a porsche dealer. When I saw pelicans price I was scared. 10bugs 100 piece

After you clean the oil pump, you need to torque the housing bolts. Since Porsche does not specify a torque, I used the generic torque for an M6 stud, 11NM (8.1 ft/lb). This is not very much torque at all. I also used red loctite to keep the nuts from wandering, probably not necessary.

Good ID, I will keep the gearpair arangement by marking the shaft.
Rod bolts. The factory changed the torque method later in 911 production to the "angle" method. In this method, the fastener is tightened beyond the yield point-- the advantage is you get a relatively constant clamping force independent of the friction of the nut and bolt. Of course the disadvantage is the bolts cannot be reused. For the VERBUS bolts I would use the original torque method as outlined in the period workshop manual-- I don't know whether this method is appropriate to use with the earlier rod bolts, only the later ones. I used aftermarket (ARP) bolts so the stretch method of establishing preload was used, which is a superior method to torque or angle.

Only experience will tell whether your case saver installation will hold. Good luck! Thanks I will do some torque tests in advance.
Chromium plating of headstuds? I have never heard of this process. Chromium plating is usually used for appearance purposes or occasionally as a wear surface for cylinder bores. If anticorrosion resistance is what you desire, I would have the headstuds plated with Zinc. Observe post-plating heat treatment as well to prevent hydrogen embrittlement due to the acids used in the plating process. My headstuds (steel) are black oxide. Dilavar is a conductive metal so it should electroplate but I cannot predict the effect on its mechanical properties, you are a test pilot! I personally would not take any risks with these critical components because of the difficulty of replacing them in the event of a failure and the comparatively limited reward offered by improving their properties.

I will use yellow chrome plating as a rust protection. This is used for a lot of different types of rods. Should work.
Did you remove the circlips for the intermediate shaft gears? I would heat the body of the gear to 150C and use the gear puller to remove it. Wear gloves and do not burn yourself. I sent my intermediate shaft to a machine shop with a press to have the gears removed and installed.

Me to. I brought the to a guy who has a press as well and he will take the clips off. He will press them out cold.
The "0" is stamped on the side of the aluminum gear, below the teeth.
I saw that and on the housing as well. But could find a mark on the crankshaft.

Good luck! I hope this answers your questions.

Thanks Jim was good talking to you.

[shbop]

I love threads like this. It reminds me of what I can do, what I want to do, and what I wish I could do. Nice work John!

[304065]

Well, I installed the three missing studs. What a PITA.

First of all, the DIN studs I came up with were Yellow Zinc plated. OK, I have chemicals that can blacken zinc, into the bath they went. Not the slightest blackening.

Next, the ends of my studs were not rounded like the old ones, they were square. Oh well, in they go, I would rather lose a concours point than have oil leaks. But what a pain to get them in with the Snap-on Stud Remover, the ends were pretty weak and deformed, and also destroyed the M8 collet for my stud remover, not an inexpensive item! That won't be hard to fix, because it was easy to deform!

Anyway I ended up using the double nut method, this isn't a terrible idea, but I used full height nuts, so the stud ended up being proud of the surface.

I think I am going to rip these out and use black DIN studs, I just found some on McMaster, which are close enough. I will get some jam nuts (half-height) and lock those on the threads, this should work better than the stud remover which really doesn't fit anyway.

Well, on the bright side I finished the case sealing with these studs, and moved on to piston installation. Update on that soon.

[Henry Schmidt]

Here are a couple of stud installing toosl that we use with regularity.
The 8 mm installer is made with 1 911 exhaust nut, one ball bearing and one 8 mm cam tower nut. The ball bearing is pressed into the exhaust nut and the 2 nuts are them welded together.
For the 10 mm stud installer we use a 911 head nut , a 10 mm hex nut and a short 10 allen bolt. You thread the nut onto the allen bolt then into the allen end of the head nut. Then just weld the pieces together.
Use a good quality anti seize in the installer and go to town. It take a little effort to make these tools but once you have them in your tool box you'll be amazed at how often you use them.

[ischmitz]

Wow John, you are making Henry giving away his secrets of the trade BTW, nice work on the 2.0 and thanks for sharing.

Ingo

[ischmitz]

Wow John, you are making Henry giving away his secrets of the trade BTW, nice work on the 2.0 and thanks for sharing.

Ingo

[304065]

Henry, that is almost too cool for words. Thanks for posting! Turns out I have a whole bunch of those nuts around and will take a stab at it. I like the fact that it's got a small OD so it will fit down in the fins.

[euro911sc]

Henry, can I sell that?

-Michael

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by euro911sc

henry, Can I Sell That?

-michael

You Can Lead A Horse To Water, But You Can't Make It Drink.

[304065]

OK, I obtained a japanese-made stud remover that works on the same principle Henry outlined- rather than a clamp on the threads, this puts tension on the end with an internal screw. It worked fine, so well that I ripped out the zinc-plated studs and replaced them with black oxide.

The ends are different from the original DIN studs, if I lose a point for that I'm going to convert the car into a 911R.

Well, I learned a lot about studs in the process, time to move on to the pistons and cylinders. . . I'll start a new thread for that.

[Plavan]

I love that oil catcher on the motor stand! Alot better than my cardboard I have used in the past. Did you get that at HF?

[304065]

Chad, that is a Summit racing pan. The stand came with a steel one made by HF-- unfortunately they just put a piece of steel in a brake, folded the edges and didn't seal them, so when oil started leaking out it ran out the corners! The Summit piece is much better.