Loctite 270 vs 271

[1972_911T]

Im about to change the piston squirters in my engine and the factory manual says to use 270 however I can only find 271 in my local shops. From looking at the tec sheets on these two they seem very similar with only minor differances in performance. The main differance on the spec sheet was the 271 is thixotropic where 270 isnt which I belive is something to do with its viscosity under shear stress, Will 271 be an ok substitute for 270?



Steve

[cgarr]

The 270 is the Green stuff, it states its used to help against fluid leaks, it may be better at filling gaps like setting bearing races. The 271 is Very high strength (red) for up to 1” dia Not sure but this may not be as good for gap filling. But if they are a press in fit I don't see a problem.

I need to change 6 of mine, how do you take them out before I dink around and break something?

[David E. Clark]

Just saw your thread. Maybe one of these will help: Loctite "Do it Right" User's Guide or Loctite Automotive Application Guide.

[Walt Fricke]

Craig

Since your asked.

I just pulled a set out. My technique improved as I went along, but doubtless there is a slightly better way.

I now understand how the squirter is constructed. It is an aluminum tube with its bottem end internally stepped. A ball bearing sits on this base, held down by the spring on top of it. A small cylindrical slug with a hole in the middle is pushed down into the tube during manufacture, and the top of the tube is shrunk somehow so it holds this slug. The spring bears on this slug. When oil pressure lifts that ball off its seat, oil can squirt out the hole in the middle of the slug. It looks like the differences between squirter models have to do with the size of the hole in the slug.

I could not thread the hole in the slug, as it can be pushed down against the spring. So cruder methods were employed.

First I took a slightly less than 1/4" (0.246 I think) blunt end reamer to it. This cut off the protruding edges of the staking in the case bearing weg up top.

Then I took a 5mm reamer and went to work on the top of the squirter. After a while I had cut off enough of the squirter's shell that the slug came out. Then the spring could be fished out.

I then tapped the shell (5mm, I think - whatever seems to fit). Then I used a machine screw and my slide hammer to tug the shell out.

I could see that the factory used some red Loctite to help hold these in. You can just see a remnant in the picture. You can see the little slug, too.



Walt Fricke