I am sure the Stomski tool is great, and a professional choice.

In my case, doing just one engine, I opted for a home-made spring-clip injector made up of a 3/4" copper coupling tube and an appropiately sized deep socket (and a small rubber mallet).

I had to bevel the leading edge of the tube to nest in the piston pin bore, and thin out the tube on one side (simply by filing down the outside of the tube until it would nest in the pin bore hole concentrically.

Worked perfectly... I was able to get every clip in with no issues whatsoever.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...0508-00140.jpg

Wow, I just read through this and realized you started this build 4 years ago. Good luck getting it finished. Looking forward to seeing it through to the end.

Tom

A few hours spent today. I got the piston squirters cleaned today and started on the crank.

I also chased the threads for the head studs. There was a lot of crap in them.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338582031.jpg

The crank looked good after sitting for a few years.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338582136.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338582152.jpg

I flushed brake cleaner in every hole on the crank and I didn't get any crud. :cool:

I will flush it again in a few days and see if I get anything.

Do you like my numbering? I am trying to make sure I put the rods where they came from.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338582366.jpg

I am confused on weather or not to use plastigage, I don't want to do this twice.

Can I measure the old main and rod bearings with a dial caliper and compare that to the new bearings to see if they are the same thickness?

another quick question, Is there an Oil Pressure Relief Sleeve on both oil pressure relief pistons?

I found it...bottom has one, left side does not.

Progress is made crank is assembled and ready to go.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338995253.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338995360.jpg

I got the case done today.

I think I put the o-rings on the case through bolts on wrong. I put the o-ring next to the case under the washer. Is it okay to change one bolt at a time?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1341608830.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1341608925.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1341609025.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1341609040.jpg

Yes its okay to change one at a time. But you put the o-rings in the right place. They go under the washer next to the case.

Thanks, I got confused the picture on page 133 of Wayne's book shows them on the outside of the washer under the head of the bolt.

great job on "refreshing it up". Everyone should see you can rebuild a engine for a lot less than you think. Cleaning is the best bang for the buck, keep up the great work!

I chickened out on the through case o-rings. The bolt side o-ring was destroyed, but the nut side looked ok. I pretty sure I let the bolt turn the first time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342643572.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342643587.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342643616.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342643639.jpg
Henry's head studs are beautiful
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342643655.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342644026.jpg

A nice tip from Mike Bruns to avoid smashing the thru-bolt o-rings is to use a countersink on the bores to cut a very shallow countersunk area into the bores. Look on one side of the case and you'll probably see it has already been done by the factory. That's how I found my case (only one side countersunk) during my most recent engine build. I bought a quality countersink bit for aluminum from McMaster Carr and it worked great. No leaks on any of the thru bolts.

Liberally grease the O rings and tighten the nut side while holding the bolt firm.
Bruce

I got the pistons in the cylinders yesterday.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343575457.jpg
This ring compressor cuts the crap out of me.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343575471.jpg
No clean room assembly here.:D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343575490.jpg

I was reading Wayne's rebuild book and he refers to the compression rings being different.

Is that the case with JE pistons and rings or just the factory rings?

Would you mind clarifying your question a bit -- "different" how, from what ??

Do you have a reference page from the book?

Are you talking about compression different from oil rings?

I think JE uses Porsche rings, not their own (IMHO of course).

You are doing a great job on your engine and thanks for the photos!
We are currently building a 964 3.8L JE 12.5CR engine.

Regards,

The page number form Wayne's book is 142.

"There are two compression rings that look very similar to each other. In reality, the bevel on the inside edges of the rings is different, and the rings must be installed in their specific ring groove or they will fail to work properly."

I could not tell any difference between the compression rings.

Thanks Sboxin

Pictures from today
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343682180.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343682237.jpg

That is really tight.:eek:no that is not blood
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343682421.jpg

The JE snap rings are as bad as advertised.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343682605.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343682619.jpg

Well...... Our parts are at a shop so I can't look quickly to see the rings and difference.

Called our tech -- he says the ring packaging should tell you 1st 2nd 3rd ring.
And, the top ring will have the inside bevel that goes up. The second ring is a combination compression and oil scraper ring to remove what oil is left after the third oil ring does its job to remove oil from the cylinder. The 2nd ring may look different on the bottom which may have groves to remove the oil. This all depends on who made the rings.

...hope this helps a bit.

Regards,

Thanks.