Okay, the bottom plug picture ... did you drop the plug during removal? Any damage such as degradation of the insulator as shown in the photo would tell me an issue exists. Did you service the fuel injectors at all? They should all look about the same. There are plenty of plug reading guides online to help you determine what is going on.

-Andrew

Yes, I had 5 of the injectors serviced (witchhunter) and Had to replace one from our host.

I may have dropped that plug when I got it out I don't remember, I see the chip in the ceramic now.

The car was running kind of rough for the first 600 miles or so from the vacuum leaks, that could be the issue. I have new plugs in now and will check them in a couple hundred miles and see how they look then.

I wouldn't worry about the spark plugs. They don't get that tan color with the new gas alcohol mix like the old days and will tend to look lean with the Motronic. Also, you had the air leak plus the rings and valves settling in. The next set will be a better indicator. Make sure you break the rings in well. Along with varying the rpm, drive down hill and use the engine braking to help them seat. A compression and leak down will give an indication how things are settling in. Here is a picture of my first set of spark plugs and the results of my first compression test.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358376553.jpg

Cost of rebuild ?
 

Way to see it through

Do you have any idea what you spent to get the job done ?

Totals
 

31.45 How to rebuild book:D
969.72 heads and measuring
301.62 regrinding cams to 964 Daughertry
2145.00 JE pistons 98mm and bore cylinders
239.50 ARP rod bolts
60.00 machine shop cleaning heat exchangers and misc. parts
175.00 rockers new bushings and reface
145.50 timing chains and misc. parts
621.00 bearings
148.67 sealing kit
94.06 oil return tubes and misc. parts
285.00 M&K premuffler dented
400.00 Vertex fan housing
317.75 engine sealing kit and misc. parts
632.00 Supertec head stud kit
74.38 stretch gauge
223.55 G50 shaft upgrade and clutch tool
115.00 Witchhunter (5 injectors) I broke one
88.50 rebuilt injector and misc. filters
44.25 injector hose and clamps
461.75 head temp, flywheel, o2 sensors, and sound pad
276.11 alternator
276.12 Brad Penn oil 36qts and assembly lube
64.75 seals I messed upSmileWavy
250.00 Russell Berry multiboard
200.00 fix DME computer that I screwed up

$8640.68 Total

Not as high as I thought it would be, and a hell of a lot of fun doing it.

Update
 

I pulled the car out yesterday and started driving it again. I have put in a new battery and it cranks and runs a little better.

I have 800 miles on the rebuild so far and about 300 miles on the last oil change. I had to add a quart today, I don't see any smoke when it's idling. I think I need to ride behind it and see if it is puffing smoke.

I think I remember Wayne's book saying that a quart every 300 miles on a rebuild was normal. How long should this be normal?

I'm not too concerned with oil consumption yet, but I am keeping a close eye on it.

For non-coated cylinders it can take a few thousand miles for the oil consumption to slow. For an engine with forged pistons there will possibly be consumption indefinitely especially if the drives are short as the engine will consume most oil when cold and tolerances are wide. The fact these have so much oil and take a relative long period of time to reach operating temperature leads me to think a spare quart or two should be part of your on-the-road supplies.

Update 5/18/13
 

Drove the car to work most of last week (120 miles/day) it ran very well and I have not needed to add oil on over 800 miles. I now have 2500 miles on the rebuild and am quite pleased with myself.;)

Thanks for all the help.

Nice work - bet it feels pretty good. :)

Finally checked fuel mileage and got 23mpg on one tank. Not to accurate, but I have been driving like and idiot so I was a bit surprised.

Had issues with the fan rubbing, so I loosened the belt. Then the alternator light started coming on at low rpms. I re-tightened the belt and and the rubbing was back and the alternator light was on at low rpm and if I revved past 4k rpms. I removed the alternator and found one nut loose.
I put everything back cranked the car and no rubbing and no alternator light (should have checked the voltage at the battery). Stranded in my own driveway.
I used a rebuild alternator from Advance Auto so it's still under warranty.

I still haven't replaced the thermostat o-ring, but will get to it soon. I did replace the breather hose with a piece of heater hose to see if that would help.

Just read the whole thread, congrats on completing your rebuild. How does your son like the car? You taught him a good lesson by sticking with it and completing the project.

Son loves the car.

2020 update. It's been 8 years and 12k miles. Engine is still strong and leak free, it does still use a bit of oil especially if I use it for short trips. I still have no smoke while driving just a puff at start up if I leave it sitting for a few weeks.
I will be doing a valve adjustment as soon as I get parts and also do a Blackstone analysis on the oil.

12k in 8 years- you saving her for the next guy? :D

That's what I thought when I saw how few miles.