looks like a winner
Bruce

Nice job...

Congratulations are in order!

Looks like a winner. Enjoy the ride.SmileWavy

After 4 and a half years, you must be thrilled. Congratulations and keep us all posted as to how your "new" engine wears in!

GK

Congatualtions. As far as the idle goes, it looks like you wiill need to adjust it. Put a jumper in and set the base idle for 880 rpm. Then when the jumper is removed the icv should keep it there.

I think the linkage is sticking on the accelerator. I will check that Sunday.

I can hardly wait to get it on the street.

Nice! It's just amazing to see the engine case on a 1988 car look like that!

Look forward to the video so that we can hear her purr...

Video
 

I am working on the first start video also.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/nYwbE-PQVBc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Nice work - congrats. I'm going through a case-up refresh right now and it's quite the undertaking. Glad to see you were able to follow it through to the end.

finally
 

Start up
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/oqTdspWGH6o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

trying to ruin the starter

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2X29mP64-XI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

:D

I was able to drive the car today. I drove about 50 miles.

The idle is fixed, it was the cruise control cable too tight and not letting the micro switch operate.

The tires are so flat spotted it feels like the engine is missing sometimes.

No noticble oil use yet and still no leaks. The engine smells funny.

I am having to realy spin the engine to get it started. Does the computer have a learning curve or is it just that way?

The oil pressure is good (at least 1+ bar per 1000 rpm) but at idle it is below 1 bar. No oil light on but it is lower than I remember.

The engine pulls strong to 3K rpms, but sometimes it feels like it stumbles. Maybe a vacuum leak, I don,t get a big rpm drop when I remove the oil cap.

How high can I spin the engine during the breakin? I was tring 3000, but it likes it up higher. The engine starts to feel good at about 3000rpm and is sweet to about 4000rpm. I can hardly contain myself.

I drove another 60 miles or so today and she is running better. I was able to change the chip over to the 93 octane setting and it will start and runs well. I have run the engine up to 5k and it pulls like it used to, I do get bucking and hesitation sometimes when I first get on it.

I have found a little oil on the bottom of the engine oil cooler, I don't know if it is the cooler or something above it.

Thanks for all the help.

Have you been able to get fresh fuel in yet? The old stuff can burn poorly.

-Andrew

I have put in fresh fuel and a new filter, but I think you are right there is a fuel starvation problem.

I have 200 miles on it and it runs better each time I crank it.

Still finding the oil on the bottom where the cooler meets the case. Crap, about a quarter sized spot when she cools down.

I burned a half a tank of gas in about 250 miles, so I filled up last night at a busier place.

Wow it must have been really bad gas, this thing will fly. Above 3k the car is very strong no hiccups or missing just linear power all the way to 6k. I think I could go higher than 6k.

The only issue now is the cruising, trying to maintain a speed as I feather the throttle I get bucking. If I let off completely or push on the throttle harder it stops, it's just when I barely touch the throttle that I have the issue.

So far I have added one quart of oil, but still not seeing any smoke. I still have the small leak at the oil cooler, but I am convincing myself I can live with it.

Have you put a timing light on it yet? A flutter at part throttle might be timing/distributor related if the fuel seems happy.

-Andrew

No timing light, I thought the Motronic cars were non adjustable.

Timing may wander with a worn distributor on any car. You may see this by observing the timing to ensure it is steady at all rpm with steady advance at higher rpm. If the ignition jitters when observing then the distributor may require repair and service. It's good practice to confirm timing to spec during tune up procedures and after a rebuild as well.

Timing on Motronic is set by the DME. It still has centrifugal weights, but that is so the rotor and pins stay aligned as the timing changes.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/638421-3-2-distributor-mechanical-advance-why.html

The oil leak from the cooler is probably off the thermostat seal, I have had a rash of thermostat oil seal not working so I ve gone to sealing above the O ring with sealant.
Bruce

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356039822.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356039896.jpg

Had a chip repaired today..it's not perfect but pretty servicable. And there was no charge again. I do love small towns.

Thanks for the suggestions. I checked the distributor for play and it felt good. The only time I get a stumble is when my foot is just touching the peddle. Mayne my fat foot is just bouncing on the peddle.


I will check the thermostat for leaks (thats easier than the cooler or the nuts behind the cooler). What kind of sealer are you using on the o-ring?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356040976.jpg
vitals still look good. I am getting a little oil spray out of the exhaust when i rev the engine. I have 320 miles on her so far.

The internals of the distributor are likely to be where an issue would lie. You may also have a plug with a gap that is off and causing a slight miss at low loads... or a fuel injector that is lazy. Could be a number or combination of things.

Oil out the exhaust is interesting. For fear of sounding like Captain Obvious you will want to watch the oil level and consumption closely. New rings will take a bit to seat fully... my previous life in VW engines was seating rings with cheap oil and varied operating conditions including wide open throttle, high rpm with full vacuum breaking while only at full temperature. Avoid prolonged constant rpm and seek hills where you can vary the load including vacuum conditions during deceleration. Don't pussy foot it or the rings won't seat or wear in properly.

Video from yesterday

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6u9UPmDUBrg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I checked my battery today and it has 12.2 v cold and 12.3 v after a 45 min spirited drive. This is a 6 or 7 year old battery.

Do youthink this could be the issue I am having with the stumbling?

My leaks are coming from triangle of doom (better than a leaking case or oil cooler), I will get my fat head back there soon.


Merry Christmas & thanks for all the help.

That's a normal voltage for car off, battery resting.

-Andrew

Thanks Andrew.

Check the fuel pressure. Do you have an adjustable fuel regulator.:)

I drove the car this am and it ran like crap, bucking and sputtering. It will idle fine and runs fine at wot, but cruisingabout 3000rpms it has issues. I drove 30 minutes and thought it was going to leave me on the side of the road. I stopped to take take my son into school and came back out and it ran like a top when I started it up.

Why is the probllem coming and going? It seems to go away when I restart the car after it is warm. I was able to repeat the symptoms and the cure again tonight.

Thanks for all the help.

This is common on VW with CIS when the fuel pump overheats or is worn out. Fuel pressure when the pump gets hot drops.

-Andrew

The Motronic has both an idle switch and a WOT switch which I assume changes fueling and timing. It sounds like you are running lean in between which may mean a vacuum leak or problem with your AFM or related component.

I was able to drive some more today. I have 550 mile on her so far and am going to change the oil and adjust the valves and try to find the leak.
The studdering is still there but only starts after I have reved the engine over 3k rpms. I removed the distributor cap and can see evidence of the rotor hitting the cap and making a groove in it. What are the best options on the distibutor? I am still trying to figure out what is happening with the studdering.

I am glad I used the ARP rod bolts, bounced it off 7k rpms this afternoon. The engine is still running fine but I am wondering how high this thing will turn, the engine was still pulling hard at 7k.

What a good job following your build/install
 

Peppy -

I was able to look at your thread from the beginning to the last post. I really appreciate the pictures, and I love the way you took the time to post pictures nearly at every turn.

Your car looks very similar to my fathers: almost identical in appearance. Except Dad's was repainted dark blue with the basic beautiful tu-tone wheels... Almost scary!

Your thread really has me excited to get Dad's car back on the road.

Nice work on the build, and thank you for all of the pictures and comments in the thread.

known 3.2 fix its........

rod bolts
valve guides
valves
springs
crap fuel line change to aircraft fuel line
updatum clutchem
updatum G-50 since yers is a 88 may already have parts from p.o.
8th journal seal

theres a few for starters.

the only cheap in the equation is yer labor. :)
.................................................. .................................................. ...
2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS

600m mile oil change and valve adjustment
 

I got the oil changed and the valves adjusted yesterday. Glad to report that all rockers where still in place and I think I found my oil leak and vacuum leaks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357916490.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357916502.jpg
Looks like anti-seize when I wipe it off.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357916514.jpg
Oil leak was the breather hose. I was too cheap to replace it. The hose was cracked and brittle, I put a band-aid on it and tightened the clamp a bit more.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357916538.jpg
Suspected vacuum leaks. The one above the oil filter was not really connected, I pushed it on better and while driving the car around to get the oil warm the missing was not present. I hope that was the fix.:D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357916552.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357916562.jpg
Not a great picture, but you can see where the rotor is hitting the cap. I have a new cap and rotor I will install when I change the plugs.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357916567.jpg

Situation normal. Looks like you're doing just fine.

I changed the plugs yesterday, I think they look ok. My fix on the breather hose didn't stay (with that hose off the engine cuts off under load, it would idle but I couldn't drive it.
I cut the end off the hose and was able to clamp it down and it is running fine now. Maybe I should go ahead and replace that hose.:D

I think I need to check the fan on the oil cooler, I have never heard it run.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358177145.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358177285.jpg

spark plug looks a bit lean...I would always stay on the rich side if i were you...especially w/ air cooled engines...= 12-13.5 afr...depends on if a carb or f/i set up engine...

hmm - the black base and non-grey tip tells me its not lean at all. At the gap it appears to be slightly black, should be grey ...

:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358281689.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358281778.jpg
A few more plug pictures.