Kris,

I think this may be the direction I take as well. I may try the AEM coils though since they are basically designed for the AEM twin fire box. I will need two 8 channel boxes though to run my twin plug setup and have the ability to shut one set (top or bottom) of plugs down for diagnostics.

Cant you run the 12 coils on six of the channels? Or do you strictly want it for diagnostic?
Or Backup?

Ok, so after some research I am back to square "A" again. First, the supplier I was getting a bulk deal on coils called and said they cannot fulfill the order. Then, after talking with AEM, they say they dont know if I can run 2 coils/per circuit and I cannot afford 2x AEM boxes + coils and such. Now talking with a friend who has a bunch of experience says that the AEM cdi is unreliable and not to use it. So what the hell do I do? I am not using a 964 distributor since my intercooler piping doesnt fit with it, nor do I want to have the high tension wires running around my engine bay. What kind of internal ignitor coil can I run that will take big boost (minus ls1 coils...) and not $hit the bed?

:)

Clewett offers a programmable Electromotive unit I am considering using.

Clewett Engineering Catalog: Ignition Systems

You might look into this as well.

Len

:)

Looks like a great unit, just is a bit pricey. I know many have had great succes with elctromotive- I just really want coil on plug for power and rfi reasons.

I am considering the ls1 coils, they are just so damned bulky...

Toyota COPs
 

Another option ... and update on my progress ...

I am forging ahead with Toyota COPs with built-in ignitors.
Toyota #90919-02246 for 3MZFE engines (Kluger in Aus, Highlander in US and other models as well). Picture back in post #45.

I now have 14 units to play with after picking up 8 for $9 each on fleabay.
I have managed to get some more info from Toyota on their wiring diagram ...
wire #1 - earth (12v-)
wire #2 - ignition (12v+)
wire #3 - 5v ignition signal
wire #4 - signal back to ECU to confirm firing (not necessary to use)

Before I was aware that they only use a 5V signal, I tested them at 12V (post #97 in thread "using a coil pack ignition"). Luckily, it doesn't seem to have done them any harm.

I will be using MS-II or new MS-3 as a controller.

The COPs fit nicely into 964 valve covers as far as length is concerned. I need to source a slightly larger soft rubber seal for a gap-free fit. Planning to slice some a/c pipe insulation into rings about 1/4" thick for this.
The lower coils also need to be fixed in place so I will make up a set of retainers that use rocker cover studs or the existing mounting points for the original spark plug lead clips. I'll probably do the same on the top coils just to be safe.

Bill,
When you get her all together let us know, that would be very cool if they lived up to your expectations and handled boost.

Ok, Been doing some homework on this and have found some great info...
Been studying up on the GM coils and have figured it out! LS1 coils are good- make a great spark- LS2 coils make a better spark- truck/Yukon coils make the biggest spark (the LS2 coils are like $120+ from autozone and Yukon coils are $50). Now I went to Autozone just for $hit$ and bought a Yukon coil. Its a little bulky for what I want to do with it but it will work. Then, I bought a 2001 Mustang GT coil boot (for COP) and was screwing with the idea of running this boot (with it's solid spring contact instead of wires with a lot of resistance) with the Yukon coil. Drove home as fast as possible to fit it on motor and it actually got it to fit. Now I will say it is a pain in the a$$ to get the boot onto the spark-plug, but it does eventually go on with enough poking and prodding. The 4 valve cobra boots are better for our motors because they are a tad longer and I wanted to use them, but Autowhore had none in stock.
Now, I am going to search on-line to see where I could get OEM Gm units from and that is what I am going to fire my car with. The coil P/N from GM is D585 Yukon coil and it can be identified as the one with a little heat-sink on it.
Check out these sites below for some convincing info- the video gets a little boring after a while but shows real data about the coils.

First this video: LS2_Yukon_ign_coil_test.wmv

Then, from the RB/Skyline forums: My LS2/LS7 Coil Swap: RB20 / RB25 / RB26 Forum: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1266288323.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1266288344.jpg

great new info!

Coils are on the way, got to order the the connectors and plug boots next payday...

I really want the ability to shut one coil per cylinder off to make sure they are all working. In a boosted car you need to be sure they are firing so you don't have issues when run hard. I also do not believe it will fire two coils per channel. CDI uses the coils to step up the voltage from the box. If you run two per channel I would imagine you could damage the CDI box.

Bill

Yes, I have heard that it will turn it into the "Aem no-spark" if you try to run two per channel. Thats why I am scrapping the cobra coil idea because I cant afford two cdi boxes. But if you can afford the two boxes, you will likely never be stranded with an ignition problem.

Have had another bad Haltech triplechannel ignitor now on the EDIS setup and ready to try something else...how are these COP plans going?

I'd like to chime in here and second the use of CDI Ignition on these engines. Most of the COP coils shown here are Inductive with the Igniter built in. Work Ok on small chamber volumes where the Plug is centered and emissions is critcal. Not so great on these big chambers. COP Coils seem to be something that are considered but the real Ignition gains are often not understood. They do make it easy to fit with the Igniter built in and no more Distributor. If the Distributor is in good condition and a CDI unit of quality is used along with a good Coil, you will make more Torque this way than with Inductive COP Coils on these engines. This has been proven over and over. If multi coils are wanted, I suggest using a 6 Channel CDI of quality and 6 of the Mercury Ferritte Coils. They will need an HT lead down to the Plug but this can be short. If the engine is Twin Plugged, then you have to double up everything. If costs comes into it and you have 12 plugs, I would suggest 2 Single CDI boxes, 2 good Coils and stick with the twin headed Distributor. I do not suggest cheating the system by running 2 Coils off the same output. You just 1/2 the plug energy. It is exactly as its been stated, you get what you pay for. Cheat the system and it will show. Ignition is the most important part of any engine.

I have seen here that some of the CDI COP coils have been mentioned. The ND ones are good but hard to find now, new. As for the others mentioned, they have a poor reliability record, so beware.

Has anyone been successful with C.O.P.'s twin-plug?

Please post your story.

I'll let you know in a few months time...doing exactly this with Denso's

Which one's?

My megasquirt guru is using 22448-8J11C nissan. He's really wanting me to use them since he's had good luck with them.

chime

These:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...01638EBF27.jpg

With 4 x Bosch triple ignitor amplifiers, p/n 0 227 100 203, which I believe are from their motorsports catalogue. Will be using one amp to fire the top plugs on one bank, another to fire the bottom plugs, then the same for the other bank. This way, if I get an amp failure, I "only" lose one plug on each cylinder (another option would be to use the slightly cheaper dual channel amps, but 6 of them, then use 1 per cylinder....but didn't like the idea of losing a whole cylinders ignition if an amp were to fail).

Similar to you, my pal who's supplying the MBE management has had good results with running this combo on very highly tuned Ford Duratec's, Hayabusa's (n/a and supercharged) and Vauxhalls of various capacity.

Here's the start of mine...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1360459482.jpg