Need an engine stand recommendation.

[Mr.Puff]

Hey guys,

What engine stand works with the 911 engine holder?

Thanks .

[304065]

I would get one from Harbor Freight, the generic NAPA one has too small of a shaft diameter. The P201 shaft diameter is 60mm.

Also, get the more expensive one with the u-shaped base, this makes it easier to put the engine on the stand because you can roll your jack between the legs. Compare this to the t-shaped stand which has a leg that projects under the center of the engine.

Be extremely careful, moving the engine around is one of the most potentially dangerous operations to life and property.

[Mr.Puff]

I need an ATV jack for the engine, don't I?

[Aurel]

Originally Posted by Mr.Puff

I need an ATV jack for the engine, don't I?

Yes, I bought mine for 40 bucks at pepboys, and it worked great.

Aurel

[euro911sc]

+1 on John's comments. I have said stand and am very happy. then go to Advanced auto Parts and get your self a few drip trays. Cut some scrap wood and lay it across the 'U' of the stand and put your drip tray under the engine. Works great at catching tools, parts, and other things.

You do not need an ATV jack, though it will be slightly easier to get the engine in and out. I got mine out with the regular jack and some wood chiseled to fit the bottom of the case. I now have an ATV jack (Harbour Freight sale + 20% coupon! = ~$18 ) The engine is more stable.

I would still recommend two set of hands even though I did my pull alone in the dark. Getting it on the stand was a real pain as the jack I have doesn't reach high enough... more wood...

Enjoy!

-Michael

P.S. Do not forget to LABEL all the hoses... I used tags w/ string and just wrote a letter for each connection. 3 years later I am happy I did this

[whackit]

I use the cheepo 4 wheel Harbor freight stand. Works greta with my P201. Make sure not to get the three wheel model though. It will be unstable.

[304065]

Most ATV jacks dont' go high enough to raise the engine all the way to where the P201 can engage. This results in a stack of wooden blocks that is dangerous, if the engine comes off it can be economically catastrophic. I prefer the jack adapter plate sold by Pelican and a high-lift jack (MUCH higher than the wimpy 17" or so most jacks give, more like 32")-- check out the European hydraulic jacks Pelican sells. Expensive? Yes.

[Aurel]

Originally Posted by john_cramer

Most ATV jacks dont' go high enough to raise the engine all the way to where the P201 can engage. This results in a stack of wooden blocks that is dangerous, if the engine comes off it can be economically catastrophic. I prefer the jack adapter plate sold by Pelican and a high-lift jack (MUCH higher than the wimpy 17" or so most jacks give, more like 32")-- check out the European hydraulic jacks Pelican sells. Expensive? Yes.

True. I made a high quality stack of 2x4s joined by big ass screws and covered with plywood sheet to upgrade my cheapo ATV cart .



Aurel

[Mr.Puff]

Well, I will try to find an ATV jack that lifts high enough. Otherwise I will go with large bolts through plywood. I can't go spending all of my repair money on tools :P.

My plan is mostly to replace the fuel lines, fix my sound pad, repaint the car, put in some classic Corbeau seats, rs style door panels, rs style carpet, fiberglass dash, aluminum lower dash, remove the rear seats/deck, remove stereo system, remove a/c, get a new windshield, new bumpers (yellowbird), ducktail, H4's, put my BBS's on (I have a nice set from a 1984 944 that say "Made in W. Germany" on them), and put my new Targa top on (fiberglass). If I can find a set of 964 cams that fit in my budget I will get those too. I have been acquiring parts for a good while now. I have most of the really expensive stuff sitting in boxes.

However, I am trying to avoid that "while I'm in there" bug. I probably will put some high-heat enamel on the engine to pretty it up. Maybe one of those stainless rennline alternator straps . Plus I need to rebuild the brakes.

--Puff

[conrad_bookout]

The correct Harbor Freight stand for the P201 yolk is

4420-1VGA 2000 Pound Capacity Engine Stand

[HawgRyder]

My advice is to buy one with 2 front legs rather than one.
This enables you to roll the engine right up to the stand and place the snout of the adapter into the hole in the stand without having to get 4 strong friends to lift it.
I have a floor jack with a 32" lift, and I can lift the engine onto the stand all by myself after removal from the car and attaching the adapter.
Bob

[hcoles]

+1 on "U" shape base - others have mentioned this... when spinning the engine after it is built up the weight is shifty.. even if this type costs sig. more do it

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

If anyone is looking for an engine stand, please check out the link below.

Engine Cranes - PelicanParts.com


-Dmitry

[JJ 911SC]

Dmitri,

Did Wayne send you to clean-up the archive?

[Jeff Alton]

Tons of posts bringing things back to life to promote activity/sales and support some of their friends businesses. It is Pelican's forum, they own it, so bring stuff back to life all you want!

[Ken911]

ok so Dimitry the stand in the picture is not a u shaped stand. You should carry one of those instead of the one pictured since you do so much 911 business.

[Flat6pac]

The big thing I noticed with the stands is they have to be tall enough. Very uncomfortable working bent over on one too short.
Make sure you have a long enough tubing to mount the engine mount and be able to spin the motor with the heat boxes on the engine. I had to call the manufacture and have him make 15 inch face plates. Still have the originals.
Bruce

[Emo993]

Mr. Puff, 15 years ago I and two more PCA motor heads went to the Jerry Woods/Bruce Anderson engine building school. Had just a great week...I askes Jerry if I could copy his style engine stand and he said no problem....Soo, when I got home I had three of these build for my friends and my self. Very stealth, will hold a 930. My little 2.2S is still setting on it. Best, Mark