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how to clean the parts

I am thinking to rebuilt the 3.2 in my own garage, just a basic question is all fellow pelicans send the parts to mechine shop or clean it yourself if clean it what kind of chemical ? or do i need a part bin with nozzle (local shop sell for $200) thanks for your input

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Old 03-11-2008, 01:07 PM
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Less brakes, more gas!
 
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Tons of threads on this for a variety of parts; search away. Most concentrated about cases. In Wayne's book he lists what can and cannot be blasted etc etc. I suggest you buy it and read it like a bible.

I had my case tanked and then soda blasted as well as my cam towers. I then did a bunch of hand work. Worked great. Otto's in CA can tumble the parts and they come out looking new. $100 for a case. You still have to ship it there. Lots of people just use their muscles and time with sponges and razor blades. Just beware that citrus based cleaners can work wonders, but you must clean it off off AL parts or it causes some issues. One thing I learned was if you plan on taking two years make sure to store the parts in a DRY area to prevent corrosion. I'm talking about the AL parts...

Best regards,

Michael

P.S. I bought a media blast cabinet (~$180). works great! Just be aware that there are several engine items that have delicate surfaces you can NOT blast.
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Old 03-11-2008, 03:00 PM
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The case and cam towers are extremly hard to clean when comparing to most typical cars Chevy, Ford, Honda, etc.. I used a dry ice blasting machine on my case and cam towers. We rented one at work so it didn't cost me anything. I think it is good to have a parts washer but I would put the money into a bead blasting cabinet & compressor. A typical parts washer will not get off the black grime on the aluminum found on these engines. I would bring the case, cam towers, chain covers to a professional machine shop to get cleaned and spend yout time cleaning all the the other parts.
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Old 03-12-2008, 11:12 AM
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What about internals, i.e. on the case...even if you get it back cleaned up don't you have to make sure the internals are all spotless prior to reassembly. What is the best way for this to be achieved? I think Wayne points out that just b/c it looks likes it's been through the parts washer there can still be bits of metal/sand/dirt, etc. that can wreak havoc on a rebuild.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:42 PM
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Taking them to a machine shop with an aluminum safe parts washer is the best way to start. Then, like Buck points out one needs to get the final cleaning done. I like having the stuff degreased before I start with the detail work.

Cheers
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:59 PM
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thanks
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:00 AM
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Professional cleaning is good but it would not be my last step. I would take a can of carb cleaner and spray it in the oil passages and then blow out with filtered compressed air.
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:57 AM
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After the bead blasting, parts washer, and the compressed air to clear all the galleries I put my parts in the dishwasher on "heavy". They came out sweaking clean but it went over like a lead balloon.

Old 03-13-2008, 11:37 AM
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Parts washer for anything that can't bead bead blasted. Well worth taking it somewhere to have done. I was wet from head to toe using a heated power washer on the case and didn't even come close to getting the light coat of varnish off the internals on the case. My case came out looking new. I used a shotgun cleaning kit, carb cleaner followed by brake cleaner sprayed on shot gun bore wipes for the oil passages. Many, many hours spent cleaning everything. The engine rebuild book is priceless.
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:57 PM
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If you decided to get a parts washer for the "other" parts not listed in the replies above, make sure you choose the right solvent. Some degreasers are harmful to aluminum parts.

I bought a $50 parts washer from Northern Tool, then put in mineral spirits. Make sure to put a 1(water):3 (spirits) ratio in it so the spirits stay clean. The spirits will float on top of the water, and the water will alow the grime to float to the bottom.
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Old 03-13-2008, 01:26 PM
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"The spirits will float on top of the water, and the water will alow the grime to float to the bottom."

Nice idea, but the water at the bottom might create some corrosion in the tank. You don't want pinhole solvent leaks when you're least expecting it.

Sherwood
Old 03-13-2008, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911pcars View Post
[Nice idea, but the water at the bottom might create some corrosion in the tank. Sherwood

Maybe put some soluble cutting oil in the water.
Old 03-13-2008, 03:15 PM
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I bought a concrete mixing tub from home depot, a set of brushes (nylon, brass, stainless steel) and 2 gal of diesel fuel. It smelled, but I got everything pretty darn clean.
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Old 03-14-2008, 11:59 AM
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Jeremy- That is a h^ll of an idea!!!. It sounds WAY less expensive than the way I did it. I bought (it took) 28 cans, the 20oz size of Brake clean from wallyworld @ $2/pop and I was about to puke after doing the cleaning outside. This was just for the engine... trans took another 10 cans.

I remember the diesel idea but I thought it didn't cut throught the crap very well. Your pics show otherwise.
Great idea!! I wonder if jet fuel would be better?? What is it about the diesel that works so well? Any ideas??
Thanks, Bob
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:38 PM
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Well the beauty with diesel is it acts more like kerosene - nut super dangerous - lower flash point.

#2 with the tub I was able to soak parts overnight - the next day - a little scrubbing and gone.

#3 - it's light - so a little squirt with brake cleaner and it was degreased.
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:43 PM
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So is diesel a little more earth friendly than other cleaners or not?
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 88911coupe View Post
So is diesel a little more earth friendly than other cleaners or not?
As in dumping into the ground? Uhhhhh, no.

Pour back into original containers and take to the recycling center. No harm, no foul.... water.

Sherwood
Old 03-14-2008, 03:34 PM
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No, I was not referring to dumping in the street...I was referring to the health issues of using certain things like brake cleaner, etc. many of which are very dangerous.
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:32 PM
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I have an arrangement with an Automatic Transmission builder in my town. The AT rebuilders have these large "dishwashers" that are magnesium,/aluminum friendly. That is usually the first clean that the parts get.

When I get the parts back I can then do a nice inspection and further final cleaning.

Best of all the cost is free (in my case)

So If you have an independent Auto transmission repair guy near you, go have a talk and let the guy know you have some parts that need cleaning, and see if you can work something out. Even if he charges you $25 its better that you having to buy chemicals, brushes. Saves you from making a mess of yourself and your driveway etc.

Also I only have things like the case,cam towers, valve covers, chain housings cleaned like this.
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:48 PM
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thanks alot

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Old 03-14-2008, 11:21 PM
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