Having Trouble Removing Head Studs

Shaun @ Tru6 · 10-11-2009, 03:36 PM

In taking my 3.0 case down to be decked, most head studs have come out with no problems, both steel and dilaver. I've been heating the base and using a double nut combo. Most have come out relatively easily. A few were "snug" but came out with no drama. I've got 3 steel left on one side and 3 steel/1 dilaver on the other.

I've tried "overheating" and then cooling (1 hour) and then heating normally. Vice Grips at the base got one of the tough ones out, but the rest aren't budging.

Thankfully I'm at a stage in life where I don't break things, so I've called it a day on these.

Any advice?

CMDR Perry · CMDR Perry's Garage

A standard pipe wrench and heat worked for me.

joe bianchi · 10-11-2009, 04:52 PM

I removed mine with a 6 to 8 inch Rigid Pipe Wrench and a little heat at the base of the stud. Also soaked with Kroil oil for a day or two before removal. No broken studs.

LeakProof · 10-11-2009, 05:00 PM

Be careful of the metal shavings when using this method.
No heat required.

Leakproof.

tadel001 · 10-11-2009, 06:11 PM

I used a 10mm nut extractor from home depot and heat. Heated about 1 minuted and then torqued them right out. The key is to have enough leverage to apply consistent press until it breaks free.

tom1394racing · 10-11-2009, 07:16 PM

The Snap-On collet tool with an impact wrench and heat when needed (15 minutes with map gas) works every time.

88-diamondblue · 10-11-2009, 07:34 PM

+1 on the Kroil and heat. You can see how far the Kroil penetrates down into the threads when you get them out. Great stuff...

al lkosmal · 10-11-2009, 08:58 PM

penetrating oil...leave overnight...apply heat........collet tool .....penetrating oil.....leave overnight....apply heat.......collet tool..............

Shaun @ Tru6 · 10-12-2009, 04:01 AM

OK, thanks. I've got the Snap-On collet tool for the perimeter studs and those were all very easy, looks lilke I'll break down and get one for these last few head studs as well, and see where I can get some Kroil as well. I'll try some PB Blaster today as a test too.

Thanks again! Slow but sure progress.

Tom F2 · 10-13-2009, 09:35 AM

Shaun, what Tom Butler said. Just lots of heat, and some force. It's the Loctite in there that's holding the studs, it melts with enough heat. Why are you decking a 3.0 case?

john walker's workshop · 10-13-2009, 09:48 AM

rent an oxy/acet setup, and heat the area in the case spigot next to where the stud threads are. use the snapon collet tool. map gas takes too long and if you have any that are really reluctant to move, it doesn't do much.

TibetanT · TibetanT's Garage

Shaun, Tom and John:

Is this the correct size to buy to remove studs?

Collet, Tapered, M12-1.25

Thanks in advance for your help.

al lkosmal · 10-17-2009, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TibetanT

Shaun, Tom and John:

Is this the correct size to buy to remove studs?

Collet, Tapered, M12-1.25

Thanks in advance for your help.

Head Studs are M10 x 1.5

TibetanT · TibetanT's Garage

Al, Thanks!

Shaun @ Tru6 · 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

rent an oxy/acet setup, and heat the area in the case spigot next to where the stud threads are. use the snapon collet tool. map gas takes too long and if you have any that are really reluctant to move, it doesn't do much.

Thanks John, I've got one of those mini-oxy-mapp set-ups, I'll use that, just need to keep the heat moving with the micro tip. Had thought about heating from the inside, thank you for confirming. Being very much a novice, I didn't want to win any Darwin awards in this build.

My progress (very limited) last week included welding a 3 foot breaker bar to one of the steel studs, heating for quite some time with mapp gas and being able to rotate about 300 degrees.

Just after that, I got an incredibly nice PM from ddinham saying he'll loan/ship me his collet tool. Thanks again Dana! What I will probably do though is split a large nut in half, weld it on toward the base and heat with oxy-mapp until it comes free with my Craftsman 15 inch adjustable wrench, breaker pipe as needed. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944662000P

If you've never used this tool, it's a must for large diameter nuts. I've found it works better on oil lines than oil line wrenches...it somehow increases grip with pressure...no idea how or why, but you have to unroll it to get it off of nuts after use. it won't just slide off.

I spent the entire day yesterday pulling the fuel system apart, cleaning, test driving, resetting carbs on this barnfind car. It sucks to relearn a lesson, that is in systems like this with known crappy parts (facet pump), crappy install of deadhead system on a CIS car (most fun I had was welding the banjo outlet closed which was only filled with red gasket sealer) and a car that sat for 10 years, just replace everything. I was able to enjoy a nice 10 minute drive at the end of the day, the little 2.0T motor with Webers scoots right along, but I see a Pierburg mounted up front in my immediate future and will take a spare fuel tank to a radiator shop just to be sure...lots of rust/scale in the tank, but screen was OK.

today I've got get parts organized for sale to keep the project going. thanks again for all your help!

john walker's workshop · 10-18-2009, 07:07 AM

more heat is the ticket. don't force the stud with a giant breaker bar or it could twist off. enough heat on the case spiogot area and they get loose enough to remove with a long wrench on the collet tool. if it gets tighter on the way out, reheat.

SchnellSchweitz · SchnellSchweitz's Garage

I used the pictured head stud remover from Sears. It was by far the easiest option for me. I coupled my removal with heat from a simple propane torch and Coleman canister.

After soaking the thread area with PB Blaster for a few days, I directed flame to the block (directly below the head stud). As soon I saw a puff of smoke from the threads, I would continue heating for around 60 more seconds. The heating generally took me around 5-8 minutes per head stud with propane. Warning: Don't breath that stuff. I'm pretty sure it's toxic!

While the block was still very hot, I would use the head stud remover. It may take several rotations to get it to dig into the head stud. Each removal rips the teeth on the tool so it gets more difficult as you progress. However, if you change the angle of the tool each time you will eventually get all 24 off with it.

I did cheat on a few and used the double nut technique. These were generally for the first few head studs that had less access for the tool.

Good luck!!! (I couldn't get the pipe wrench to grab. The teeth kept slipping.)

Shaun @ Tru6 · 10-18-2009, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

more heat is the ticket. don't force the stud with a giant breaker bar or it could twist off. enough heat on the case spiogot area and they get loose enough to remove with a long wrench on the collet tool. if it gets tighter on the way out, reheat.

once again, thank you John. I just worked on one side of the case. welded a nut to each stud about 2 inches up. heated the case with an oxy-mapp for about 1-2 minutes inside and out. all came right out easily, and easier on the way out.

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom1394racing

The Snap-On collet tool with an impact wrench and heat when needed (15 minutes with map gas) works every time.

Shaun,

Tom Butler introduced me to his method and removed all 12 Dilavar head studs without heat in 35 mins. Now that I have used this method, I could probably do it under 30 mins. next time around.

Tony