SSI fit up issues 1978 911 SC

[casor]

I have had my 3.0 911 SC engine rebuilt and it is now in the car. I have the following installed on my engine:

SSI 491008 (left side)
SSI 441749 (right side)

This is an independent 3 into 1 setup on each side that will supposedly go into a Dansk 2:2 muffler.

1) Heater tube hook up for driver side heat. Left side heater tube on SSI header does not line up with left side tube ducting in the engine shroud tin. Very awkward angle and a stub flex tube will not work. I think I might be able to solve this by installing another small shroud filler pc on the left side (square with large hole for tube) that is normally found on the right side of the shrouding. This would allow a straight run though the shroud down to the header. Comments?

2) Clutch arm fitment. The circular clutch spring interferes with the corner of the left SSI header. Can’t even get the clutch arm to fully seat on the actuating shaft because of this.

3) Engine oil line issue. I have a hard oil line part number 911-107-739-10 that is supposed to work with the left SSI header and screw into the engine inlet on the left side of the case. Preliminary fit up with the header still on the engine tells me that there is no fn way this is going to work. Just not enough clearance on the left header and the straight part of the hard line seems like it will then interfere with the right side header.

Can anybody shed some light on what my options are here? I have heard over and over that “everybody uses SSI headers”, so why does it seem like I am trying to split the atom here?

Thanks in advance for your help, guys.

[tom1394racing]

Post some pics of the interference and we will try to help.

[fred cook]

I had some of the same problems when I put SSIs on my 1980 SC. The oil line will need to be retrofitted to use the hard line that passes over the transmission and attaches to the thermostat with a short flexible line. The original hard line that passes behind the engine won't work. I also had some interference with the clutch arm and spring. I finally took a ballpeen hammer and made room for the clutch parts. Yes, it does hurt to bang on that nice stainless part! The heater tube hookup is a real pain. There are two ways to do this (that I could figure). One is to use a piece of very flexible reinforce hose. The other is to slide the connecting hose in place and then mount the SSI to the engine. The downside to the first method is that the hose might have to be replaced more often, but I have not experienced any problems after about 5 years or so. The problem with the second method is that it really requires two people to get the header bolted to the engine properly. Good luck!

[casor]

Fred - thanks for the input. I started banging on the header myself but it hurt too much. I may have a welder guru chop off the corner w/o disturbing the contents and weld in a flat piece.

Do you have a PN for the oil line you refer to? Hate to be a PIA, but I am just about out of hair.

Thanks again
Rob

[casor]

Guys - per request, here are a couple of photos showing the issues.....
Rob

[lindy 911]

It is common practice to dent the heat box in the area you have marked. It's the only way. If you get a 2"x2" that's about 12" long you can "dent" it without too much fuss. Get a biggish hammer to pop the end of the 2x2 with the other end squarely where you want the dent. The wood will do less damage than just banging away with a ball peen hammer. It helps to drink a beer or two before this process. Try no to cry because the water in your eyes will blur your vision and you might knock a hole in the trans case.

Lindy

[snbush67]

On the left side heater hose you should use backdated engine tin that has the hole for the hose, its the small piece that is above the inlet for heat into the SSI, and plug the other hole. Did you use thin flange SSI's? If so then you will have to notch the spot for the clutch spring.

I used thick flanges on mine and mine clears the SSI's for the most part. When I let out on the clutch it dings sometimes.

[casor]

SN - I think I have thin flange SSI as the spring center punches the spot welded seam. Will do on the heater tube piece - do you have a PN?
Thanks
Rob

[snbush67]

OEM-90110682600

I think the left and right side part is universal but I am not sure.

[casor]

No, the holes on the rt side pc do not line up with those on the left side of the shrouding

[Jeff Higgins]

This thread should help. Take a look at the parts diagram shown in one of the posts. You need parts 22 and 23 at least, and if you don't have the upper ducts, add parts 9, 10, 11, and 12.

Backdating Heat - Questions?

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by casor

No, the holes on the rt side pc do not line up with those on the left side of the shrouding

Have you considered fabricating a small piece? All you need is some sheet alu some tin snips and a few band aids.

[fred cook]

The Pelican part number for the replacement oil line is: 911-107-739-10-M20.
Hope this helps!

[casor]

Fred - once again thank you for your help.

I do believe that is the line 911-107-739-10-M20 that I have per point #3 in my initial post above. Once I have the header off I will try to fit it up and set what I have.

Rob

[casor]

I have not gotten the pc yet, but there is a left side filler pc with the hole for the heater hose PN 901-106-825-00. This will allow a straight run through the shrouding to the heater tube on the header. Small pc in lower left in photo. Believe the pc is from a 2.7 911

[casor]

The small square tin filler pc from an earlier car (photo above - lower left pc) did the trick with helping route the left heater hose directly into the heat exchanger. I wound up grinding off the (4) tack welds holding in the tube, removed the tube and fab'd a stainless cover and riveted it in.