3.0 SC High Performance Rebuid
 

After many requests to post a thread on my rebuild project I have decided to put myself out there for scrutiny. Have at it!

The basis is:
3.0 SC case
stock crank std / std
stock rods w/ race ware bolts by Aaron @ Rennwerks
JE 10.5 : pistons with poly dyne thermal top coat and oil retention skirt coat (new)
twin plug big port SC heads by Aaron @ Rennwerks
GE 60 cams (used)
46 mm Webers (used)
SSI w 2 in 2 out (used)

Budget: $7500 total
Target: 275 RWHP

I have everything except Aarons work for under $5,000 thanks to our host and this site. We'll see how it shakes out.
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Thanks for posting. I'm gearing up for a very similar build. Are you going with a twin plug dizzy or crankfire for spark?

Did you do anything to the cylinders to prep them for the JE's

Tom

Thanks for posting. I am about to do an almost identical build, but without twin plugs (relying on good gas) and DC62 cams instead of GE60's (similar).

How you found 46mm webers and all that other stuff for less than $5K I'll never know... :-)

I figure 275 wheel horsepower is optimistic. I'm aiming for 275 flywheel horsepower. I'll be interested to see how you end up.

Cheers,

Tom & Craig,

I am Using an Electromotive ignition set up by Clewett. Considering my budget, the other options were too much money. The cylinders are Mahle nicasil units that are being honed for the new pistons by Aaron @ Rennwerks.

I'm cheating a little on this budget and taking advantage of the economy. There are some really good deals out there. I really didn't need 46s and could have saved a lot of cash by using 40s instead but I don't think my RWHP goals would have been achievable without the 46s. Most of my upgrade parts are used except for the pistons and ignition. I paid $300 for the SSI at a Porsche swap meet! They are not cosmetically perfect but will function just fine.

My $7500 budget is for the upgrade necessities alone. I'm not including things like Carrera tensioners or a new clutch cost in the budget because they are not mandatory for the goal. I was actually thinking of using mechanical tensioners! I love to monkey around with this car and adjusting cam chain tensioners every 5,000 miles is not an issue to me. I'd probably have done it every time I changed oil @ 3,000 miles anyway.

The biggest thing so far has been with the cleaning of the case. This process takes a lot of time and effort but I think it's worth every minute. I had them tanked first to get rid of the sludge and grime. Them I used a half case of carb cleaner to get all the grit out of the inside. Then I hand washed them with Dawn liquid detergent and water and scotch brite pads. After the hand wash I blew everything out until dry and oiled and tested the piston squirters. I had some issues with the piston squirters and developed yet another tool for blocking the case through bolt holes to get air pressure to the squirters (see attached photo) It's 3/8 fuel line with a #8 stud pushed inside to fatten it up then the edge ground off with the bench grinder. The taper created with the grinding gets the fat line past the oil hole for the squirter and set up a good seal.

It will be a while before any progress because a lot of the parts are on there way to Aaron for rework. My coated bearings are ready for pick up so I'll install those Tuesday night.

Have fun with your builds, I am.

Mike

Piston Squirter Tool
 

3/8 fuel line with #8 stud pushed inside and ground off edges. Lightly oil before using. Works great!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258899131.jpg
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By the way; my squirters were really stuck because the motor sat for 15 years without being run. I ran across another post here that said they had good luck with Sea Foam injector cleaner. This stuff, for whatever reason, works wonders. After hours with carb cleaner and air; nothing! Five drops of Sea Foam and ten minutes I put the air to it and blast off! I repeated this about four times until I got a consistent spray from each jet. Lastly, I blew Mobil 1 through each jet to lubricate them while waiting for the assembly. Next time I'll know.

Here's what you should expect:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/246563-another-rsr-clone-project-dyno-day.html

285 hp at the flywheel.

If I can make 250 RWHP, especially with my budget, I'll be a happy camper. How do you like the way it runs? Does it come on the cam pretty hard or is it fairly linear? Beautiful car and motor.

Lindy

The motor runs great.

I use it 80% street and 20% track. The gearbox has been designed around the motor with 3rd, 4th and 5th down stacked for 150MPH at 7500 RPM. I'd recommend this with the GE60 cams.

The motor is very responsive and steetable below 3500 RPM. From 3500 to 8000 RPM if pulls like a sport bike. I use a manually limited 7500 red line at the track.

I built just about the same thing for 260 FWHP.

Just got my pistons and bearings back from Poly-Dyne; wow! I will post pics when my computer decides to wake up. I had the piston skirts and bearings coated with their oil retaining coat and anti scuff and the piston tops with the thermal barrier. I don't think any of this is a necessity but Poly-Dyne is not far from here and they took an interest in my "budget project".

Pictures to follow.

Lindy

you should get the heads TBC coated as well. include the exhaust port and backside of the exhaust valve. I coated almost moving part in the top end of my 3.2SS and notice a bit of difference in cooling.

Almost the same as mine I managed 204 rwhp. Obviously the usual Dyno discrepancy discussion is needed here.

I put GE80 in mine and limited to 7300 for longevity....I can go to 8000 but it sounds scary at those revs.....also expensive. I have over camed it for the street. Takes a while to get used to how to drive it and everything is at the top on WOT.....but FUN.....!

I'm not any kind of dyno expert, but if 204 was the max you saw with all the changes made I would suspect somethings amiss. We routinely make over 60 hp with a 650 cc single air cooled motor; two valve head, not as much cam and smaller induction than what we are doing with the 911 motor. I know it adds up to a 3.9 liter motor but it also adds up to 360 HP or 90 HP per liter. My guess is that 270 FWHP is not hard to do especially with 46 mm Webers, almost .5" lift cam and 10.5 to 1 compression. It's an air pump not unlike many others.

The biggest caveat; it will have to rev.

While the parts are being serviced in various parts of the country, I thought it would be a good time to get the pressure washer out and irritate my neighbors. Lots of gunk in the engine bay and wheel wells. It looks a lot better after P-wash! I will re-paint the engine bay, fender wells and freshen the bushings all around. Turbo tie rods and re-built calipers on new rotors. Piston and bearing photos this afternoon.

Lindyhttp://i857.photobucket.com/albums/a...1start2257.jpghttp://i857.photobucket.com/albums/a...1start2258.jpghttp://i857.photobucket.com/albums/a...1start2259.jpg

Lindy 911...I was disappomted with 204 but I have limited it to 7300 although it is built for 8k. With race springs and ARP rodbolts. I think the biggest thing is that on this dyno it is comparable to a 5.0 ltr V8 that has been mildly worked over. I am sure that on another dyno it would produce better figures.

If reved to 8k is would be in the 240-250rwhp region. JohnJL is in the same ball park not sure what he is reving his to. What is your rev ceiling?

Mark.......

Mark.....

Sub'ed

??

Sub'd means I just subscribed to this thread it's a good one!

Gotcha! Stay tuned, it's about to heat up.

Lindy