What can I use instead of P214c tool

[HKZ Bob]

Dear All,

I am rebuilding my chain tensioner and I am at the point to used the Tool P214c.

Any good proposals how to assemble it without that special tool.

Thank you.

[304065]

Compress it in a vise with padded jaws and insert a pin across the tensioner bore. This is how the tensioners come new from Porsche.

Install tensioner on stud, tighten nut. Remove pin and the piston should pop into place.

[HKZ Bob]

Originally Posted by 304065

Compress it in a vise with padded jaws and insert a pin across the tensioner bore. This is how the tensioners come new from Porsche.

Install tensioner on stud, tighten nut. Remove pin and the piston should pop into place.

Thank you

You are describing the usage of tool P214
but there is another tool called P214c.
Called Adjusting Ring

[HKZ Bob]

Any Proposal how to avoid using the No.1 Special tool.

how deep to press the piston in number 7 in?

[JFairman]

I used my body weight to compress the piston in against a 2x4 on the ground while oil slowly came out the 2 little holes letting it compress far enough to stick a finishing nail bent over 90* in the hole to hold it in...
No drama and worked perfect.

[4sd911]

Bob, did you ever find that tool?

[MBruns]

If its the non press fed unit like in the pic there is no hole to pin, what I have done on those is compress it in a soft jaw vise with half of the piston exposed so you can take over with the very large channel loc pliers and then install, Its tricky because the very hard surfaces of the tools and the tensioner are "slippery"
Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

[mskala]

Originally Posted by MBruns

If its the non press fed unit like in the pic there is no hole to pin, what I have done on those is compress it in a soft jaw vise with half of the piston exposed so you can take over with the very large channel loc pliers and then install, Its tricky because the very hard surfaces of the tools and the tensioner are "slippery"

I do it almost the same. You can get the clamp from pelican, but I actually had an
old bar for snapping together floating wood floors, and just bent it the right length.
Put the clamp on the correct side, then you can slide the tensioner on without
needing any other tools.

I can't see what the purpose of the 'adjusting ring' is.

Mark S.

[Flat6pac]

I ve always used a large flat screwdriver and pressed down until I can tap the tensioner the rest of the way under the idler. Just did it tonight and it worked fine again.
Bruce

[Jon B]

The tool in question, P214c, is a gauge to set the aluminum piston depth on 930 tensioners, while opening the bleed screw. It also helps depress the piston evenly. I can post dimensions, if anyone is interested...

[4sd911]

Jon, that's the tool. Is this still available? The other tool p214 those are easy to find, I made one by bending a peice of 1" flat steel.

[Jon B]

The tool may still be available through the Porsche parts system. The "part" number is 000.721.214.30. The depth under the flange is exactly 10.04mm. The three diameters are 34.93mm, 27.86mm, 24.05mm; the hole is exactly 16.00mm.

[4sd911]

I called the dealer and gave him that part no. it is still available from Germany for under $10. Thanks Jon.

[gabriele63]

Hello everyone! I am from italy. I am reading these interesting guidelines that I am struggling to understand them correctly... I would like to build the P214C tool because I can't find it locally. I am interested to clarify the depth of the tool: is it from the lower part of the flange (engraved number) or the upper part of the flange (top lip). Would it be possible to know the thicknesses of the 3 rings forming the tool?
Many thanks and kind regards

[Jon B]

Originally Posted by gabriele63

I am interested to clarify the depth of the tool: is it from the lower part of the flange (engraved number) or the upper part of the flange (top lip).
Would it be possible to know the thicknesses of the 3 rings forming the tool? Many thanks and kind regards

Originally Posted by Jon B

The depth under the flange is exactly 10.04mm. The three diameters are 34.93mm, 27.86mm, 24.05mm; the hole is exactly 16.00mm.

Gabriele, the setting depth of the tool, under the flange, measures 10.04mm. The "thickness" (diameters) of the three rings are as I previously listed; their individual depth dimensions are not critical.
Just for clarity, the tool measures 12.11mm in total height, including the flange.

[gabriele63]

Thanks very much Jon, may I ask you a further query:
then it would be enough to press the oil retaining piston of 10.04 mm., subtracting the smaller section of the o.r.p. that fits into the tool hole of 16 mm.

[Jon B]

Originally Posted by gabriele63

Thanks very much Jon, may I ask you a further query:
then it would be enough to press the oil retaining piston of 10.04 mm., subtracting the smaller section of the o.r.p. that fits into the tool hole of 16 mm.

Yes, the outer edge of the piston should be set 10mm below the top of the tensioner housing. It's not necessary to be precise to 0.01mm.
This is the depth measurement of the P214c tool, which is used in rebuilding 930 tensioners.
The depth measurement of the P214b tool, used in rebuilding the previous 68-79 tensioners, was 8.1mm.

Tensioner tools P214b (left) and P214c (right).

[gabriele63]

Ok Jon, at this point I will simply press the oil retainer piston of 10 mm. But according to you, the procedure described in the Haines manual to fit the oil retainer piston by placing the chain tensioner at a 20 degree angle should always be followed?
Many thanks, and excuse me for bad translation...

[prschmn]

Attention to detail is wise but-----
Keep in mind that the spring #6 eventually pushes the #7 down no matter
how it's installed initially.
The gap between them is really just an oil resivior -sp? that's needed for shipping .
Other than adding a bit of lateral support it does nothing to tension the chain..

[gabriele63]

Yes, the tool is used to determine the amount of oil that must remain.
Thanks also to you, Prschmn, and have a nice day.