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Engine removal

I'm getting ready to drop the engine from my 86 911 for a clutch replacement and refreshing several other items. I was wondering if it was better (less pain in reassembly) to drop both engine and trans or not?
Old 09-15-2010, 08:59 AM
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On a 915, I like to split them in the car. I m 1 person and it is easier for me to handle just the engine on a jack, coming out or going in.
Either way you do it, you have to drop the clutch lever so you can split the trans off, if you dont, you wont split them either way.
Bruce
Old 09-15-2010, 09:17 AM
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I personally find it easier to remove them as one unit. Once you find the balance point, they come out easy. I then place them on two furniture dolly's and separating them is easy. I also find lining everything up and bolting them together before reinstalling much easier.
It is easier with 2 people, but I have done it by myself a few times.
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:31 AM
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I've done it both ways and I prefer taking them out as a single unit. Makes the process a little tougher due to weight, but it's really difficult to line up the engine and trans if you separate them. Just my .02 worth...
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Old 09-17-2010, 05:06 AM
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Both technique works........

Quote:
Originally Posted by dccmhall View Post
I'm getting ready to drop the engine from my 86 911 for a clutch replacement and refreshing several other items. I was wondering if it was better (less pain in reassembly) to drop both engine and trans or not?

dccmhall,

Both methods for engine removal work. The big question is what set-up and equipment are available to you. Removing the engine separately from the transmission sounds more logical but if you don't have the equipment and tools to handle the engine both for removing and re-installation you are looking for big time frustration!!!!! And it's almost physically impossible to do it conveniently by yourself.

Dropping the engine and trans as a unit is alot simplier and easier. And re-installation offers less frustration and headaches. I've done engine drops solo for my friends several times using the engine/trans combo for FREE. But would never attempt to do an engine drop without the trans unless I get paid for pain and suffering!!!! Unless you are a PRO that does this thing for a living, I would not recommend this method. Good luck and keep us posted.

Tony
Old 09-17-2010, 08:10 AM
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Pelican Parts - Product Information: PW-01-100-0002

I've done about 6 solo drops, all with the engine and tranny connected. It is not difficult. There is a question of finding the balance point. Let me suggest that you borrow .....or purchase the adapter that Pelican sells. It is designed to position the jack at the balance point and provides some added engine support. I have used one for a couple of years now....it works.

Regards,

Al
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:35 AM
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I just dropped mine, one piece. It took roughly 1.5 hours, start to engine on the stand, and it's only the second time I've done it. Fuel, oil, CV joints and electric disconnect then the motor mounts and out it comes. I pulled the Webers to clear the rear bumper as it came out the back because the bumper is a pain in the ass to get off.

Lindy
Old 09-17-2010, 04:09 PM
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Smile engine drop

Paul’s Garage Blog How to Remove the Engine and Transmission from a Porsche 911SC

Here's a great link for engine removal - best I've seen
Old 09-17-2010, 05:21 PM
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a few of us share tools and have 3.2 cars, one guy bought a motorcycle lift and made a 2x4 platform bolted to the lift, this allows easy engine with trans in/out. I've only done the drop/install with the trans attached. I like that method because I feel like I have more control of putting stress on things while installing the transmission to the block and you can easily see what is going on.
Old 09-19-2010, 08:33 AM
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Researching engine drops...Thanks for the link mygatts57!!
Old 10-12-2010, 02:17 PM
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I've done both. 100+ times...

Find it more expedient to drop the engine with trans these days..
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Old 10-12-2010, 02:23 PM
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I like Bruce am alone doing this. I split then drop. The way I do it is I sit the car under my block and tackle point in the ceiling. Jack the car up, remove fan and housing, remove the deck lid grille, sling the motor around the intake runners. Unbolt transmission, disconnect all fuel/electrical lines then take the weight of the engine with the block and tackle, remove clutch lever etc, loosen engine mount bolts, disconnect transmission in the tunnel behind seats. Then slowly drop the engine pulling toward rear of car as it drops to clear the 4 engine/tranny bolts then just drop onto my custom made engine trolley. Move car out the way, remove CIS and engine tin and then hoist up to mount on engine stand ta da works for me.
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:59 PM
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A simple ATV jack with a couple of 2x6 boards cross-wise works well and solidy support the entire drivetrain. Definitely my tool of choice. (Though I remember doing it once at the track on a small floor jack on a strip of plywood. UGH)
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:02 PM
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I'm planning on doing the engine and trans as one piece. How much clearance is necessary? I read where it's recommended to use large jacks, but those things are pretty high and it makes me nervous thinking about how high I would have to lift the car to get it to that height. So I was planning a multi step lift, as in:
1. lift rear and set on the small 3 ton jacks, base height
2. lift front and set on small 3 ton jacks, base height
3. lift rear and set small jacks at mid height
4. lift front and set small jacks at mid height
5. lift rear and replace small jacks with the large at base height
6. lift front and replace small jacks with the large at base height

I dunno, maybe I need to buy the jack pads to lift the car from the side to start off?? .....man I wish I had a lift.
Old 10-13-2010, 07:47 AM
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I only lift the rear of the car, no need to lift the front. This actually helps get the rear valance higher and out of the way so when you pull the motor out from under the car it won't hang up. If you use a single jack with a 12" long piece of 2 x 10 on the jack plate, you can raise the car by putting the jack in the center of the car right at the tunnel where the trans shift shaft enters the car. This is a boxed area and the 2 x 10 will spread the load and not hurt the underside of the car.

When the car is in the air place the 3 ton jack stands at the rear corners of the cabin; you can see where these support points are when you look under the car. I use a small piece of 2 x 4 there again to protect the underside of the car. My motor with Webers on a standard hydraulic jack needs 32" clear at the bottom of the valance.

Lindy
Old 10-13-2010, 09:47 AM
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Thanks Lindy.
Old 10-15-2010, 09:53 PM
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