My choice was - 2. Replate a set of 3.2 Cylinders and increase to 98 mm. 9.5:1 3.2 SS. This will be more $$ because I dont have 3.2 cores.

I purchased and installed the same product, EBS was great to deal with, I changed my order about 6 times before I decided on this same set up with J&E pistons.

I do not think you could beat the Nickie's. But I think you will find that the performance gain if any is minimum compared to double the cost.

Shane

Thanks Shane. That is the way I am leaning...

Brad,

You will have a blast with this motor I have the G2 108 Racing Cams from John and they are great.

A couple of cheap upgrades if you can find them is to use the 3.2 chain box gaskets. To do this you will have to get your chain boxes machined. Also the 3.2 idler arms and sprockets if you can find them used. Also you can use the 3.2 cam bolts and washers (I think this is the only option with the Daugherty Racing Cams).

Shane

Shane do you have a dyno pull you could share with us?

Sorry, I do not. I have been way to busy, other things are priority right now. I did some fine tuning last week, but haven't dynoed yet.

The engine pulls much harder. No leaks, no smoke, plugs look good. I hate to guess at these things. I like to think 250 minimum, it is a screamer in the power zone, and feels stronger every-time I take it out.

I do want to get this thing to a dyno, so I can be sure I am getting everything out of it.

Have my final build details...

Heads -- CNC Machined/ported for 40 mm ITBs, Aase racing Springs, TI retainers, new valves. Work done by Steve Weiner.
Cams -- GT2-108 Cams by Daugherty Racing Cams
P&C's -- Replated (millenium plating), 3.2 Cylinders (Bored to 98 mm for 3.2SS), JE pistons, 9.5:1. Work done by EBS Racing.
Rods -- Complete set from Tom Butler.
Head Studs -- Supertech Racing Studs.
Machine Work -- Rennsport - M Callas - Sealy, TX
Rockers -- Rebuilt by Craig Garrett
Coatings -- Main, Intermediate, and Rod Bearings, treated by WPC Treatment Co., Inc.
Hardware/Internals/Misc parts -- Several vendors incl Pelican.
Through Bolt Washer -- Free from M Crawley. Thanks!

Total build price $9,500. Im doing all the work (except Machine) myself...

that is the way to build an engine there Brad...take your time with the assembly...ask any q you may have to avoid any issues...a ton of knowledgeable info here on pelican...

From the looks of this, you should be in the 230-250 rwhp range, right...?? Plan on dynoing the car...that is the best & final step to ensure you do not have a possible lean or rich or some other issue that will shorten the life of your build...

I will be following your build here...best of luck...sure sounds like a winner in the making...!!

Bob

Did you pour water in? Gee wiz.

Thanks Bob. I am sure I will have lots of questions. Next step is to remove the studs, then get the crank, case, rods, Intermediate shaft to the machine shop...

Nice....
I didn't mean to be rude. I just thought it was a bummer thats all.

I was wondering the same thing, I have heard that a mist through the intake will clear out the carbon build up.

Were you using a mist or a pour? I think this method of tuning is supposed to be applied to cylinders on at a time, like through a carburetor or ITB rather than through CIS.

Just curious, I think that we can learn from your mistake if you would share the details. SmileWavy

Thanks,

Shane

Question, My intermediate bearings have copper showing through.. clearly worn out. This seems to be a weak link.. what was the reason for not coating the intermediate shaft bearings...

I have ITB's.

I poured one at a time. Not mist. Poured. It was a slow pour, but a pour nonetheless. Probably 1/2 a cup over a 15-20 second period.

The driver side did fine. no damage. When I hit the middle cylinder on the Pass side there was a snap... like a ring breaking.
Honestly, because the driver side went ok, i probably poured the pass side alot faster... like 5 seconds... which is more of a dump than a pour.

As soon as I did it I had oil smoke out the tailpipe and it ran like ****. Well after seeing that Rod we all know why. Im amazed it ran at all...

The moral of the story... even though some pretty credible sounding people say they have done it... and that it worked... doesnt mean you should do it or try it.. hope someone else doesnt make this 10k mistake...

I actually had all the bearings done including the lay-shaft.

Lindy

Thanks.

Does it impact clearances? Still use regular process/Assembly lube?

No clearance issues but make sure you clean any over-spray as I stated before. I use the same assembly process as normal.

Lindy

clearance
 

Most coatings worth the effort do have about a .0004in. build up per bearing shell, and most std. cranks and factory bearings are on the tight side without the coatings, so be careful and check your clearances Don't assume !

Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

Good insight; my normal assembly process includes clearancing.

Lindy

I'm sorry it happened, it sucks. I've had my own mistakes and they are almost always expensive with a porsche.
You have good things around the corner though it looks like, and it will all come out in the wash(no pun intended).
Good luck, your parts list is quality, good job.

Thanks Quattro. Appreciate the support. The silver lining is that I was using 1 Qt per 600 miles and had a worn out Intermediate shaft bearing... So Ill be fresh for another 15 years at my annual mileage.
Ill post pics when I start assembly.

I'm at the same spot you are. I just Dry film lubed my bearings and skirts. I powercoated the tops and combustion chambers as well. Still need to find some good sc cams to lube and finish things up. Excited like you to finish.

I have a good set of SC cams if you're interested.

Lindy

what is the coating on the pistons? koool. and the bearing treatments?

The coating is dry film lubricant on bearings and skirts. It's a process and coating that adds extra protection from wear. The powercoat is a thermal barrier/dispersant. It helps to deter hotspots. Check out techline coatings for info and ordering. You would need an oven if you want to do it yourself.

Update --

Dropped off my case, crankshaft, rods, new je pistons.. to Mike Callas at Rennsport for all the cleaning and machine work.

Have all the new parts ill need to reassemble... So hope to get back my freshly cleaned and machined pieces in a few weeks.

crazy rod u found there.... def going to keep an eye on this build

Update--

Machine work done. Everything cleaned, inspected, polished, and within standard specs. Pick up my cleaned and machined parts on Wednesday.

Issue...
 

So Rennsport didnt mention this damage.. and maybe its not a big deal. Not sure how it could have happened... Makes me alittle nervous...

Repair? Leave it? JB Weld?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291427326.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291427348.jpg

Thats normal

+1

I posted the same pic too.

Wow. Thanks guys. I had visions of oil gushing out after I had it back together. Enjoyed your thread MCA. Well done.

Im in the cleaning stage now while I wait for my main/rod/intermediate bearings to come back from WPC (Charles Navarro recommended / WPC - Metal Surface Treatment / Micro Shot Peening). Its different from the standard bearing coatings as it doesnt impact clearances.

Thanks! It was a wild ride. Hope to do it again someday if I can afford it :eek:

Update - Intermediate Shaft
 

Progress --

I used JB Weld on all the areas of the case in Wayne's book. So that is complete.

I opened up the oil pump. No fragments. No excessive play. Smooth as butter. So I just bolted it back together and will reuse that.

I decided to clean and inspect my Intermediate Shaft. I wanted to change the Chain Sprockets at the very least. I am glad I looked at this today... More bad news... There is clear pitting /gouges in the area that rides on the bearing towards the oil pump. Someone might be able to polish it out... Not sure. I ordered another one from our host. Here are some pics..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292113985.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292114007.jpg

Update--

Well I made a rookie mistake. Torqued my first rod 180 degrees instead of 90. So Im waiting on a new set of rod bolts/nuts.

I received the new Intermediate Shaft this week.

I received my Main, Rod and Intermediate bearings back from WPC this week.

Pelican is sending me one of the RSR o-rings for the rocker shafts, the packet only contained 23 instead of 24...

I had Rennsport (M Callas) install my rings, measure them and make sure they were correct. I am sure I could have done it, but there are things I think the pros are better at when only given one chance to get it right. Measuring and trimming rings for a perfect fit is one of them... Only took them an hour... Would have taken me ALOT longer...

So getting close to assembly. Ill post some pics as I assemble...

Holy strength! I recall having a hard time getting to 90 degrees!

LOL. Well i used a breaker bar of course. 180 degrees was pretty tight. The real 90 was much more reasonable....

I didn't even think about pulling out my breaker bar. Would have been MUCH easier. I just stuck with the torque wrench. I'll remember that for next time.

Here is a pic with the treated bearings installed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292728730.jpg

Make sure to inspect the back side of the bearings for over-spray. You will need to clean any off with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. If you don't the material left on the back side will effect the clearances. The sanding of the back side will also add a degree of bite by the bearing to the case when assembled and bolted.

Lindy

Thanks Lindy.

The WPC process is a micro-shot peen using solid lubricants such as Tin (Sn) and Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) and doesnt consist of any material added to the bearing surface. (well according to the sales pitch)... so I think I should be fine there but ill check it. This is an interesting process that Charles Navarro recommended.

WPC - Metal Surface Treatment / Micro Shot Peening