Update --

Rockers in.
Valves Adjusted.
Chain Housing Covers on.
Tensioner Oil lines installed.
Distributor in.

To do...
Install Oil Cooler - Test, Clean, Flush by Tom Butler.
Install Valve Covers
Install Spark Plugs.

Close to a completed Long Block. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296785510.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296785533.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296785554.jpg

Cool. Looks good.

Did you put the JB Weld in the spots according to Wayne's book? I don't see it on the chain housing covers.

Great work, looking to rebuilt mine as well in the next coming months. Will go to 10.5 JE, twin, JB racing cylinders, GE80 cam and custom CNC head porting and EFI with Microsquirt as hte engine control (Great and cheap package). Engine in pieces, no damage. In process to get the parts, wish to close the case by this summer. Slow lead time, better cash flow!

Sorry to ask but what is the coating added to the main crank bearing?

Thanks

Alain

I did.. except on the chair housing covers. It was never there. Would you add it?

Check Wayne's book. I believe he tells you to do it.

It has been a real education and alot of fun. You will have a blast. Just take your time...
The coating is a micro shot peen with Tin (Sn) and Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) , and other material. Company is WPC.

WPC - Metal Surface Treatment / Micro Shot Peening

WPC metal surface
 

Hum! Interesting but not convinced...

Just to let people know, to repair cracks or any damaged inside the case I would prefer to use Loctite 99393 or Magnobond 6398 over JB weld product.;)

I taught I could share some pictures of my project. Still in the mode to prepare the parts and redo some of them.

thanks

ALainhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296925247.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296925273.jpg

pw36889,

What distributor or sync wheel is in the second photo? Do you have a part number?

Thanks,

PFM

This is a custom made distributor that uses the JB racing rotor and cap! I did used an hall effect sensor from Bosch. 1500 $ for the JB racing design was too expensive so I decided to design and built the unit myself

Alain

pw36889,

The part looks so good I thought it was a factory piece. I plan to use a coil near plug setup with a Megasquirt and that looks like it would work.

I assume the drive gear is from JB Racing too. I think I will stick with my crank fire setup and flying magnets on the pulley and a pickup like Bruce Andersons.

Nice work.

The part has been made in a factory by myself using housing in alu 7475(over kill) and 17-4 ph shaft h900. That piece will las forever. Bevel is from the original dist. Pf course everything anodize. Will be on test on the microsquirt soon. The next part to go is a superlight engine support.

Thanks

Thanks

Longblock Complete...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297555806.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297555827.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297555910.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297555988.jpg

Beautiful engine! Have a question for you though. Did you forget the alternator ground wire that attaches to the top of the case or are you relocating it elsewhere?

I have the wire. I actually did forget. :) but when I started cleaning my fan/housing i saw it.

I have a new alternator being delivered Wednesday...

Update...

I also have thin flange SSI's, so I am swapping out all my exhaust studs. What a ball buster that is. Youd think for $2,250, the heads would come with new hardware. Not so much... I snapped off four of the first 8... So I am glad I have the jig. But its painful. Think Ill need to Timesert two of them. I ordered the M8 timeserts and the installation tools. Should have it by the weekend. Stay tuned.

Nice work Brad!

Spring is coming and you seem to be at the proper pace. Good Luck.

Paul

Nice stuff.. have you started a thread for your build?

Update
 

Some updates.

Engine is complete except for Clutch/Pressure plate.

Intake Manifolds on. PMO's will go on after engine is under the car.

My distributor was off 180 degrees. That was fixed. ready to go.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298862505.jpg

I have decided to tackle the electrical inside the engine bay. I had my relay board mounted back on the firewall and I just wasnt happy with the looks. I bought a new EFI wiring bundle and a new 8 fuse fuse block.

Hope to get this done this week.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298862792.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298862818.jpg

Thanks Paul!

Looking good Brad, fire that engine up allready!

Shane

Hey Brad,

Looking good! Make certain that you run the dizzy impulse wire SEPARATE from the other wiring to the MSD box. It will interfere with the timing. Been there, done that!

Lindy

Yes. Barry made me a purple/green that plugs into the MSD on one end and into the Dizzy on the other end. It is run seperate from the other wires. Thanks!

Wiring about 98% complete.. Here is a pic. The plastic cover has been cut to cover for water protection. here is a pic without the plastic cover..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299682481.jpg

Engine is in...

Just a few things to do...

Install ITB's and Fuel lines.
connect linkage/clutch cable
Adjust clutch
Do the "5 min and a beer" repair on one of my oil lines
Connect a few wires under the car.
install the new wideband O2
Add oil.

Hope to have her started this weekend. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299683771.jpg

Update
 

She is running.

Ran into a few hickups but nothing major (clutch cable was not adjusted right, didnt have the oil hose at cooler tight enough)...

Oddly, I was off one tooth on my distributor and it still ran. Ran well enough to break it in like this. I learned this because i was not able to get close to TDC with the timing light with it at idle after the 20 minute break-in. Thats was the biggest error that I have found so far...

Have some tuning to do with the MS EFI (thats another post). no oil leaks. pulls strong. drove 50 miles or so after breakin. Changed oil twice (Break-in, first 50 miles).

Thank you all for your help and advice.

Brad

Last Pic
 

Here is one last pic...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300072072.jpg

Looks great! Hope it continues to go well.

Thanks!

Great job Brad,

btw, the switch to E10 fuels in TX in 2010 has caused me to retune my engine to compensate for fuel quality. send me an email and we can go over the new targets for your MS system.

You will also want to retune based on the cam change.

Thanks Jaime. Sent you a PM.

May I ask is the block painted or is there some kind of coating on ? Why ? If the answer is the look, it certainly looks good. Very nice.

After cleaning with glass beed, the case and the aluminum parts of the engine were sent to thin anodize process. Normal anodize could built up to 0.001"-.002" which obviously you don't want on an engine case. Anodize requires to have metal free. Studs are to be removed. Cleaning cases with sand blast or similar process will show a nice finish but will not last because of corrosion. Here's a picture of the complete engine once assembled. All metal pieces of the entire car went to yellow or black zinc process.

Transmission is my next step. It will use the similar process. Note, the custom made 12 points rotor and throttle bodies with integral swirling geometries...using Microsquirt engine control for this engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414705995.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414706006.jpg

Wow, that's a super clean engine compartment! Great post!

Beautiful!

Very nice Alain!

Although I am curious as to what processes were used after media blasting, and anodizing to ensure that all media was removed from the case internally, and that the anodizing process left no coating within the internals?

Were the case halves mated, openings taped and then blasted? etc..

Thx