My choice was - 2. Replate a set of 3.2 Cylinders and increase to 98 mm. 9.5:1 3.2 SS. This will be more $$ because I dont have 3.2 cores.

I purchased and installed the same product, EBS was great to deal with, I changed my order about 6 times before I decided on this same set up with J&E pistons.

I do not think you could beat the Nickie's. But I think you will find that the performance gain if any is minimum compared to double the cost.

Shane

Thanks Shane. That is the way I am leaning...

Brad,

You will have a blast with this motor I have the G2 108 Racing Cams from John and they are great.

A couple of cheap upgrades if you can find them is to use the 3.2 chain box gaskets. To do this you will have to get your chain boxes machined. Also the 3.2 idler arms and sprockets if you can find them used. Also you can use the 3.2 cam bolts and washers (I think this is the only option with the Daugherty Racing Cams).

Shane

Shane do you have a dyno pull you could share with us?

Sorry, I do not. I have been way to busy, other things are priority right now. I did some fine tuning last week, but haven't dynoed yet.

The engine pulls much harder. No leaks, no smoke, plugs look good. I hate to guess at these things. I like to think 250 minimum, it is a screamer in the power zone, and feels stronger every-time I take it out.

I do want to get this thing to a dyno, so I can be sure I am getting everything out of it.

Have my final build details...

Heads -- CNC Machined/ported for 40 mm ITBs, Aase racing Springs, TI retainers, new valves. Work done by Steve Weiner.
Cams -- GT2-108 Cams by Daugherty Racing Cams
P&C's -- Replated (millenium plating), 3.2 Cylinders (Bored to 98 mm for 3.2SS), JE pistons, 9.5:1. Work done by EBS Racing.
Rods -- Complete set from Tom Butler.
Head Studs -- Supertech Racing Studs.
Machine Work -- Rennsport - M Callas - Sealy, TX
Rockers -- Rebuilt by Craig Garrett
Coatings -- Main, Intermediate, and Rod Bearings, treated by WPC Treatment Co., Inc.
Hardware/Internals/Misc parts -- Several vendors incl Pelican.
Through Bolt Washer -- Free from M Crawley. Thanks!

Total build price $9,500. Im doing all the work (except Machine) myself...

that is the way to build an engine there Brad...take your time with the assembly...ask any q you may have to avoid any issues...a ton of knowledgeable info here on pelican...

From the looks of this, you should be in the 230-250 rwhp range, right...?? Plan on dynoing the car...that is the best & final step to ensure you do not have a possible lean or rich or some other issue that will shorten the life of your build...

I will be following your build here...best of luck...sure sounds like a winner in the making...!!

Bob

Did you pour water in? Gee wiz.

Thanks Bob. I am sure I will have lots of questions. Next step is to remove the studs, then get the crank, case, rods, Intermediate shaft to the machine shop...

Nice....
I didn't mean to be rude. I just thought it was a bummer thats all.

I was wondering the same thing, I have heard that a mist through the intake will clear out the carbon build up.

Were you using a mist or a pour? I think this method of tuning is supposed to be applied to cylinders on at a time, like through a carburetor or ITB rather than through CIS.

Just curious, I think that we can learn from your mistake if you would share the details. SmileWavy

Thanks,

Shane

Question, My intermediate bearings have copper showing through.. clearly worn out. This seems to be a weak link.. what was the reason for not coating the intermediate shaft bearings...

I have ITB's.

I poured one at a time. Not mist. Poured. It was a slow pour, but a pour nonetheless. Probably 1/2 a cup over a 15-20 second period.

The driver side did fine. no damage. When I hit the middle cylinder on the Pass side there was a snap... like a ring breaking.
Honestly, because the driver side went ok, i probably poured the pass side alot faster... like 5 seconds... which is more of a dump than a pour.

As soon as I did it I had oil smoke out the tailpipe and it ran like ****. Well after seeing that Rod we all know why. Im amazed it ran at all...

The moral of the story... even though some pretty credible sounding people say they have done it... and that it worked... doesnt mean you should do it or try it.. hope someone else doesnt make this 10k mistake...

I actually had all the bearings done including the lay-shaft.

Lindy

Thanks.

Does it impact clearances? Still use regular process/Assembly lube?

No clearance issues but make sure you clean any over-spray as I stated before. I use the same assembly process as normal.

Lindy

clearance
 

Most coatings worth the effort do have about a .0004in. build up per bearing shell, and most std. cranks and factory bearings are on the tight side without the coatings, so be careful and check your clearances Don't assume !

Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

Good insight; my normal assembly process includes clearancing.

Lindy

I'm sorry it happened, it sucks. I've had my own mistakes and they are almost always expensive with a porsche.
You have good things around the corner though it looks like, and it will all come out in the wash(no pun intended).
Good luck, your parts list is quality, good job.

Thanks Quattro. Appreciate the support. The silver lining is that I was using 1 Qt per 600 miles and had a worn out Intermediate shaft bearing... So Ill be fresh for another 15 years at my annual mileage.
Ill post pics when I start assembly.