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Hi Errie,
Been watching your thread to get the courage to do the same to my early 2.0; thanks! Your thread will be priceless. I have one question about the photos above, where does one purchase those red plugs to close off case openings? I've been looking for some for storage of an MFI pump and will need them when I tear into my motor. Thanks, Ron |
Ron - PM me your adres , I have some left at will mail it to you. Bought these years ago , can not remember where.
Errie |
Today I will measure the deck heights on cylinders 4-6 to make sure they are in spec. Cam timing will be done hopefully next week.
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Deck heights
Removed right bank and tested deck heights -
4- 1.32 mm 5- 1.29 mm 6- 1.31 mm. I tested # 1 cylinder after the machine work was done - 1.37 mm. I used the solder method , and might be off a few hundreds. |
After testing deck heights , heads and cam tower was put back and torqued down ( using oil ! ).
Hopefully I will not see these babies again for many years. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318984972.jpg |
Cam timing done using two dial indicators. Took me about 4 hours. Many helpful tips on this forum helped me getting it very close to perfect , and well within range - 2.5mm in my case.
Remember that #1 and #4 are one rotation apart , and keep tension on the chains. |
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Piston to valve clearance
The BOOK says - after all thy have done so far , thy will test the piston to valve clearance. If they are not correct , thy have options.
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Valve to piston clearance > 1.5 mm on intake and > 2.00mm on exhaust.
I never questioned the quality of work down by George and Ike. |
I missed this
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And of course the bolts were not too short , the alternator will fit in a different fan housing , or in the current one if it is machined.
I will try to find a machine shop in this area that can remove 9.3 mm - which might not be a good idea. |
Don't do any machining on the fan housing till you check the fan belt alignment with the crank pulley. Cutting 9mm out of the housing will set the alternator back, but might also pull the fan belt back and out of correct alignment. Did you get the wrong alternator?
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Mark - to my rescue again !
I do not know. Look at the pic of the alternator in the housing. Will take more pics and post. |
The housing on the new alternator is 9mm longer than the old one. Would the best be to buy a new alternator that fits , machine the housing , or service the old one ?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320104965.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320105048.jpg |
Put the fan belt on and check the alignment with a straight edge against the surface of the crank pulley. Measure the difference between the fan belt and the straight edge at the bottom near the crank pulley, then at the top near the alternator again between the fan belt and straight edge. Should not be more than 1mm difference. If it's good, then you will be in trouble if you remove 9mm later.
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Just saw your pictures. I would get the correct alternator.
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I guess like all others new to this , the " while I'm in there " made me make costly mistakes and questionable decisions.
The upside to this is that I have enough spare parts ( many new ) , to build another 911 engine in the future. |
Thanks Mark - will do that.
It is frustrating to be so close to finishing the motor and have another setback. Part of the game ! Exactely what specs to I specify for the alternator ? |
That's the correct attitude for sure.
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Body work
When the engine is done ( final parts ordered and major work done ) , the next project will be to start with the car where I started with the engine ( Zero-1).
The car is a 912 that needs a LOT of rust removal , electrical work , welding , swearing , etc. |
Oil line restrictors
I received most of the parts today ( thumbs up for our host when it comes to super service ) .
Included were oil line restrictors. Arguments about the pros and cons by some of the Big Boys in the past put me at the crossroads. Do I use them in , or not ? |
I have about 700 miles on my newly rebuilt engine (formerly 2.2T, rebuilt to 2.4E spec). I chose not to use restrictors, and have excellent oil pressure. I'm not sure who's argument it was but the idea that restrictors reduce the actual oil volume getting to the cam towers made sense to me.
Mike |
The purpose of the restrictors is to restrict flow of oil to the cam tower area. You have to decide whether the oil foaming there is worse than not having enough oil to cool and lubricate the valvetrain.
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I am considering using the restrictors , but bore them out a few sizes to be less restrictive.
The motor will be used in a street car that will not run at race car rpm's , but the temperatures in AZ is always a factor. |
The good , the bad , and the ugly.
I chose to go for middle of the range constrictors. This can easily be changed in the future if needed. With all the physical and chemical options and possibilities involved , I took the precise scientific approach and picked a drill bit that looked sharp enough for the job. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320371323.jpg |
Ernie
I just noticed you problem with the alternator/shroud fit. Here is some information that might help you. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/612744-early-fan-blade-bosch-alternator.html I would return the new alternator and have the old one rebuilt |
Tom - having the old one rebuild , and will keep this one for a future motor.
The bug got me. Ordered a Bosch distributor , MSD 6425 , upgraded ignition wires , stainless headers , and a new leakdown tester. |
Block off plates
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Alternator back where it belongs - still needs the end dust cap.
So many brilliant ideas got incorporated into this engine , I can not believe the flimsy way the air guide fits on. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321154697.jpg |
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Cam oil line help
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Max - the 2.2T has a oil temp sensor on the top , and not in the cam line. Is a longer Carrera line available , or do I have to use a double male nut to bridge this ?
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My car started life as a 1971 911S. The engine in it now is a 2.7 RS spec, built on a 1974 7R case. It was built around 1990 by a place in Texas called Kraftwerk. Here is what my engine has there.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321210508.jpg |
That is exactly what I need - is there a part # on it ? I spent 2 days at Lowes , Autozone , Home depot , Ace , and a private part store in town - no luck
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None that I could see. I think it may have been something the shop came up with who did the engine work.
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