Cam tower
 

If the cam tower mating surface is off by 0.2mm on # 2 , and it is machined by removing +/- 0.1 mm from the # 1 and # 3 surfaces , what other effects can this cause?

Why and how would cam towers that are torqued down deform ?

I decided to order another ( machined and inspected ) cam tower , to make sure I sleep at night .

This will give me time to reflect on every step taken so far , and mentally motivate me to start taking things apart again.

One small step for man , one giant slip for Errie Kruger.

I also gave in to threats and pleas from Sue about moving my MOTOR out of the living room - tomorrow we will be married for 32 years.

This looks better. I got away on a technical point.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316552389.jpg

Cleaning up the living room was more appreciated than the leak-down tester I gave her as an anniversary present. That was until she saw the blingbling that was also in the box.

Hope to move the motor back when I receive the new cam tower :D

Cam tower
 

Replacing the cam tower might solve my problem , but not answer my questions - anybody wanting to give their 2 cents on this ?

Have you measured all the cylinder heights? If your heads are not flat and
level across you have a problem somewhere. I would not entertain modifying
the cam tower as a valid solution to this problem. Not that it wouldn't work,
you're just solving the wrong problem. What is it that is making one of your
heads sit up a little?

andy

Andy - looking at all the options and potential causes .

Heads and case machined by Ollie's - trust them to be perfect.

Prof Ferdinand must be looking down on me with a smile.

Andy and I have both mentioned checking the cylinder heights. They must all be the same height. Cam tower could be warped some how, I have seen this before but not very often. Trying to re-machine the cam tower to correct the problem with # 2 is not the answer IMHO. If case and heads were done at Ollie's they should be fine, but you should still check and make sure.

Thanks guys - cylinder heights will be measured and feedback given. Hope to do it in the next few days.

These are new pistons and cylinders.

Don't forget to measure all your shims as well.

Africa trip
 

Grady asked me to post pics of our trip in April. I took more than 1000 photos , but did not have internet access for 99% of the time ( cell phone reception as well ). Still got a $1321-27 bill for roaming charges.

Here is one where I introduced my grandson to a kitty that showed a bit too much interest.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316705788.jpg

Peak hour traffic more dangerous than the 405.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316706081.jpg

That looks like fun to be around (trained) big cats like that.

Correction - shown here the 0.25 ( measured ) and 0.50 ( measured ) shims before removing the 0.25.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316714727.jpg


When taking the cam tower/heads off today , the thread on one stud looked different than the others ( this was on # 2 - the problem ). I will use my snap-on tool to make sure this is perfectly clean , use the washers received from Tom Butler , a new nut , and see what happens. This could have caused uneven torque.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316714799.jpg

Have you been using any lube on your nuts before tightening? Dry is not the way to go and will not produce consistent torque values.

No luck - hoped I could get a break on this. Will do it the proper way as suggested by Pelicans.

I have used oil as lubricant , but must have used an old nut on this stud to keep the cylinder from falling when turning the motor.

With the last assembly , I did not add oil again. Will try one more time.

350HP930 - it works !!!!!! :) I hoped the whole time that this is a torque problem , and nothing more serious.

The combination of wrong washers , one dirty stud head , and not enough oil on threads was another rookie mistake.

Glad I could be of help, then again I do have years of engine building under my belt and had to learn a few of these lessons the hard way myself as well, lol. ;)

I have tried to be as precise as possible from the start. A repetitive action like taking the tower off at least 6 times , made me miss the basics. Yes Mr. White - you can not fix stupid.

Although the camshaft could be turned by hand , it was significantly tighter than the other side. Now they are perfect.

Max - this is a 6 month old cup kept in the kindergarden. The pic was taken at a research facility that does genetic testing and scientific research. There are numerous prides of lions , but because the males kill the offspring of other males , they are taken from the prides as soon as some brave or drunk ranger finds the guts.

They are then raised ( bottle fed ) till they get out of control and big enough to be released into the pride again.

There is no such a thing as a tame wild animal. Instinct will always take over at one stage. The only training these cups get , is how to be a lion that can survive in the wild. Wonderfull work by this dedicated team.

Did this a while ago - sandblasted , primed , and painted with high temp engine paint.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316732175.jpg

Kitty relaxing on my shoulder after my grandson ( who wanted to pull his ears ) was given back to his mom.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316739385.jpg

:)

I know this is an engine rebuilding forum - just wanted to show some traffic Porsches will encounter in Africa. From my trip in April.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316742616.jpg

Rockers installed on # 1 and # 4. This is where the fun starts -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316747434.jpg

Sprocket alignment
 

I got fluctuating readings when measuring the cam sprockets , but adding an angle to the straight edge to make it more rigid , solved the problem.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316966062.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316966186.jpg

Small parts like washers and woodruff keys tries its best to defeat gravity and will even attempt to fall upwards in their quest to look for a way of getting into the case.

Cam timing
 

With cam sprockets aligned , I set valve clearance in # 1 using the Porsche tool. Dial indicator set up in Z- block .

When turning crankshaft 45 degrees of TDC I feel resistance. Did not want to force , and decided to ask advice first.

With rocker on # 1 and dial indicator removed same problem.

Which cylinder would be causing this ( # 6 ? ) , and what is the next step ?

Cylinder deck height problem ? - like Mark told me weeks ago.

Without any rocker arms installed, do you still get a residence while slowly turning the engine in a clockwise rotation?

Mark - yes , I was very careful , and tried it a few times without using force. I even very slowly turned the crankshaft back about 180 degrees without any problems. I did not want to hang the chains , and kept tension on them.

The resistance is clockwise 45 degrees from TDC.

The crankshaft turns 2 times for every time the cam turns , and cylinder # 6 is next in the firing order -

Well I guess we need to know just how much resistance it really is. Can you rotate the engine past the hard spots and get a full 360 degrees? What I'm trying to figure out is are the hard (resistance) spots just slow you down while turning the engine, or do you have to really crank on it to get past the hard spots?

I tried - but feels like a dead stop. Do not want to force.

I did not test the deck height on the right side after it tested perfect on the left side.

That's not good news, sorry to hear this. With no rocker arms installed and chain tensioners or mechanical device keeping tension, rotating clockwise, there should be no hard spots and definitely no "stop dead" spots. I would start with loosening up the suspected side first and see if things clear up so you can start to pin-point the problem. Deck heights and TDC piston to head clearance measurements on all 6 at this point should be performed and documented.

Putting an ear ( wife's ) against the case , it sounds that it might be # 4 con-rod touching the side of the case. Turned free on dry run before torquing the case.

Does this make sense ?

Also received extra cylinder base gaskets to install if it is a deck height issue.

Will use the endoscope next week to confirm - taking a few days off

After taking some time off , I decided to again visually inspect everything I have done so far with a flashlight and endoscope. I have convinced myself in the last weeks that if someone messed up , it would be me , and not Ollies.

One of the first things I did , was to look inside the case at the #4 con-rod , and lo and behold ! The left chain slipped partially off , riding on only one set of teeth, making contact with the rod ( #4 - suspect No 1 ) about 30 degrees clockwise from TDC.

I will wait for my garage to cool down a bit ( yes, I got kicked out of the living room ), and take care of this.

I hope it is something as simple as this that caused me many hours of frustration , and not any thing serious.

Ironically , the tension I kept on the chains made sure it stays on one set of teeth. Must have slipped off a while ago.

Don't feel too bad Errie, that chain over half the sprocket thing is a common mistake. Just be glad you caught it before really trying to turn the motor over.

Chain released and re-fitted - crank turn free ! I checked the torque on all the nuts , and re-alligned the sprockets.

This was a good good night !

Camshaft timing
 

Wayne's book " How to rebuild and Modify 2003 " p167 says to tighten camshaft nut to final value , and then begin clockwise turn 360 degrees. Then , remove nut and dowel pin , make adjustment , and torque to final value.

Is this correct ?

To torque to 110ft/lb using a tool that wants to slip off all the time , can be done if you have an extra hand. I busted 2 knuckles , and scared the crap out of the cat - doing it only once !