Here's what they say:"The design correctly positions the rocker shaft within the camshaft housing to provide the greatest support of the rocker arm." and it looks like the threads are deep enough to compensate for case width variances as long as the long bolt cooperates cuz it's not completely threaded...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301066695.jpg

TK Rocker Locks
 

In this photo it looks like they would actually allow some float of the shaft:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301066856.jpg

As long as they are wider I like the idea then.

They will still expand the rocker shaft taper to secure it and the rest of the structure just appears to be there to position the o-ring and make sure the shaft is centered.

more pics
 

rod brg clears all good avg approx 0.0525mm

turbo oil pump clean and almost ready to gohttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301273131.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301273188.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301273217.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301273240.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301273258.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301273273.jpg

Rockers
 

1 rocker is too far gone, but the rest can be resurfacedhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301273519.jpg

Looking good, but I'm a little biased, lol. :)

The engine stand ring adapter P201 came today and I must say it's made well and has a real nice gloss finish on it.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301407475.jpg
Thanks Pelican!

more pics
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301863726.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301863774.jpg




rod brg to crank clears remeasured with 40 lb-ft torque on APR bolts and all came in between 0.06 to 0,07mm. No worries there, but remeasured piston to cylinder clears and found them between 0.15 to 0.16mm, which are above the manual's wear limit of 0.12mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301863817.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301863853.jpg

CaptainCal,

You might want to consider getting the pistons coated on the crown for heat and the skirts for clearance. You are quite close and that small amount can be covered nicely with coatings, the crown treatment is also very good on a turbo. Taking the clearance up will help with ring seal. Make sure your cylinders are all nice and even.

Stay tuned,

PFM

Great idea! Wonder if JE would do the coatings for me?

Thanks,
RC
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301879595.jpg
ring adapter is ready to go

Captain Cal,

JE can do the coatings but I think they prefer coating their pistons, not sure what you have by the photo but look stock. Give Embee a call they can do what you need. I would go for the "soft" coating for the skirts let is wear in.



Call (714) 546-6907

Embee Performance
2100 Ritchey Street
Santa Ana, CA 92705

Stay tuned,

PFM

Thanks PFM

Math correction on piston/cylinder clears cuz I forgot to divide by 2.

P/C clears are actually between 0.07 and 0.08mm, which are well within the 0.12mm wear spec. However, I think I've read that ideal clears should be between 0.008 and 0.032mm.

Can anybody tell me what the ideal p/c clearance is on a 3.3L? I'd like to try to get there with a skirt coating.

Thanks,
RC

I don't think You have to divide the clearance by 2, it would be the first time I've heard it is measured this way. As for the coating I have no idea, but 0.14-0.16 mm of clearance looks like too much to me. I think You should aim for something like 0.08, not more, but I'm not an expert of these engines so let's see what the expert will tell You.
luca

They are on the upper side of the limit, they have 120K miles and a fresh diamond hone on them after all. ;)

Coatings will cut that down a little so its an option to concider, but that much clearance shouldn't be an issue for that bore size even if its barely outside of porsche's specs.

For a bore of almost four inches a 3.5 to 4.5 thousands piston clearance isn't all that bad even if porsche factory clearances conciderer them worn out.

When all the mods are added up the pistons will be getting a lot hotter and more heavily loaded than they were originally intended to so the extra clearance and oil thickness will have some advantages over the original specs.

If you want to have them coated for some peace of mind there are certainly a lot of different vendors to chose from, that's for sure.

Boy I like the way you think!

I'll run them just as is and take advantage of the extra clearance:p

Also, while I was chasing down two through housing oil pump bolts guess what I found? Yep, the key was hiding in there with bolts:)

Here's the oil pump back together. Pls tell me I installed the gears right?

Thanks,
RC
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302027215.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302027226.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302027235.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302027246.jpg

So glad to hear you found the key! Good to know it didn't fall though the cracks after all.

If memory serves me correctly I believe the scavenge pump gears are staggered so the long gear gaps don't line up. Been a while since I took it apart so you might want to get a second opinion on that from one of the gurus on here though.

Danggit, I knew you were gonna say that...oh well, there goes another hour and 2 beers in the garage tonight:rolleyes:

Nice job on the pump.

Captain,

While you are back in there did you break the edges on the pump inlet and outlets? It helps...

Stay tuned,

PFM