Up on jack stands
 

More progress:

I got the car up on stands last night and took a look at the brake pads & rotors. The front and rear calipers look like they are the same size/part, but if that's true why are different pads offered for each end?

I'll be needing new front pads (<0.02mm) and the front rotors turned (groves) for sure and prolly the rears too. Our host has too many offerings to choose from:)

Anybody got any experience with BHP pads? They look like a good all around street & track pad. I've used Hawk HPS pads before and like them a lot, but can't find them for a 1987 930. Anybody using Hawks?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305736011.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305736148.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305736160.jpg

This isn't engine forum information anymore, but the pistons in the calipers are different sizes between front and rear calipers.
They use the same pads front and rear but some people like to use different compunds front and rear on the track.

I have Hawk HPS (high performance street) pads in my 930 and for the street they work very good.

This store used to have the best price and Hawk inventory with free shipping, maybe they still do..
Hawk HPS, HP Plus, SuperDuty, Black, Blue 9012 HT10, HT14, DTC60, DTC70 - Discount Prices ! - Best Brakes

Thanks for the info!
RC

Looks great Rick, glad you were able to find a shiny 930 hiding out under all that dust and grime.

I've also just realized that the rear engine trim was hanging up in the corner of my garage so I will be adding that to your list of items to be picked up when you have a chance to swing by again sometime.

Cool, I should be able to stop by Friday after lunch:)
RC

NP, don't forget those old valves when you do.

I've got a cassette for ya too that I found in the dash:)

LOL, I didn't even think about what I might have left behind inside the car. :p

Didn't realize this was all happening so close to us - very cool.

Mike at JB Racing has been busy!
 

Here's pics of the heads after skinning for firerings
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305822863.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305822876.jpg

APR Rod Bolt Stretch Study
 

My APR rod bolts are all over the place!

Here's a chart of stretch inches at 30 FT-LB torque:
Sorry the grid line units didn't come through, but the top line is 0.012" and each line is 0.002" apart
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305824932.gif

Here's a chart of stretch inches at 35 FT-LB torque:
the top line is 0.014" and each line is 0.002" apart
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305825015.gif

Here's a chart of stretch inches at 40 FT-LB torque:
the top line is 0.018" and each line is 0.002" apart, so the 5th line down is 0.010"

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305825026.gif




Based on this study in order to meet the stretch spec of 0.010" to 0.0105" I'd need to torque 2 at 40 ft-lbs, 5 at 35 ft-lbs and 5 at 30 ft-lbs. Can that be right?

That makes sense Rick, one reason measuring length is concidered the best way to torque critial fasteners is because a lot of variables can effect how applied torque is converted into stretch. The moly lube is intended to help but its not a perfect solution.

In the aerospace world they actually have special tools with ultrasonic transducers built into them so the stretch on all critical fasteners is used to determine when they are properly clamped instead of using applied torque.

Good to hear!

One thing that scared me about one of the bolts is that after it was stretched it missed coming back to it's original length by 0.002":(

Double check your measurements, even a single hair getting caught in the stretch gauge could throw you off that much. It would take quite an over-torquing to permanantly distort an ARP fastener that bad.

Are you having another shop do the fire rings? Nice to see the mating surfaces cleaned up but I'm curious why they wern't cut for the rings at the same time.

Mike at JB Racing did everything, I'm just not fast with the pic:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305831349.jpg

more pics
 

JB Racing does fine work & fast too!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305832904.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305832927.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305832936.jpg

CaptainCalf

I only see one spark plug hole in them heads....

What's up?

Stay tuned,

PFM

Single spraks should do the job cuz this is only gonna be a mild low boost build at only 500hp;)

Twin plugging is way over rated for this head configuration with a flat top piston IMHO.

I can understand why twin plugging would help flame front propagation on high top, high compression pistons, but that's not the case here and the metal removed for the second plug would be more likely to raise head temperatures than it would be to improve mixture combustion.

That's at least my opinion on the subject, but I'm sure some people here might have a differing opinion though.

350HP930,

I do understand the point about a flat top piston versus a dome however boost creates cylinder pressure, high cylinder pressure has a large affect on ignition and two ignition sources is better than one. As you said just an opinion. It also depends on how much boost is applied as to benefit received. As for heat I would put a BIG vote in for ceramic coating of the chamber, valves, piston tops and exhaust ports. It does help contain the heat and protect the parts.

Stay tuned,

PFM