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A moment of (possible) inspiration this evening;
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Then....whilst pondering how to make a faceplate up that looks nice, as well as printing of the legends in the correct font, size and spacing, it dawned on me that I should simply buy the binnacle used on the Carrera 4 models; 2 x rotary switches, one for the 4WD setting, the other for the rear wing manual lifter. (thanks to the other Pelicanite whose pic I pinched a few mins ago) ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...TCampBoost.jpg I also think I know who could screen print an overlay decal that will have the legends I need. I'll be asking him on Monday ;) My concerns about this option are mainly around how easily the TC and boost setting can be accidentally changed; there looks to be an LED warning lamp between the 2 switches - that could potentially be used to indicate the Spinal Tap 11 setting. I had wondered whether to make the traction control switch a key operated unit, making it a conscious decision to turn it down or off. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...21at010802.png |
Blimey, so, where do I start with todays update?!
I guess the simple items first.... Went across to Simon @ Sileck at lunchtime, who quickly made up a new +Ve power feed cable for the loom; A consequence of me changing my mind with the routing, meant that the short 6" long feed was nowhere near. A new 550mm (nothing like mixing units..) section is now in the workshop, also shrouded with fibreglass braided sleeving to give it some abrasion resistance, not that it should need it, but looks nicer in black rather than white. New gasket for the smaller of the two Deutsch MIL connectors is also now with me, ready for installing onto the new bracket. The auxiliary loom for the boost control, traction control, boost gauge and warning lamp o/p is also now with Simon, measured up and ready for making over the Xmas/NY break. ************************************************** ****************** The items currently with my plating shop, Butterworths in Ramsgate, are apparently going to be ready for collection in the morning. Did have fingers crossed that John would get these done before their Xmas shutdown, and Gord-luv-im it looks like he will. This is really useful, can get a load of things finished on the engine. ************************************************** ****************** Spoke to my pal Brian who owns ************************************************** ****************** Busy time in the workshop the last couple of evenings, designing and making the brackets for wheel speed sensors. As previously described, the rear sensors are to go onto the gearbox. After much filing, turning, cutting and drilling, this is what I've come up with so far..... In the 4-jaw to bore the hole for the HE sensor....pretty nerve-wracking, with it being a right-angle piece flying around; no erroneous movement of the saddle or it'll be a very big, and expensive bang ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BF11C8BE07.jpg A roughed-out bracket for trial fitting ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BA66EA8087.jpg The LHS assy finished. A spacing collar will sit between the sensor and the bracket, to set the 1mm gap we need to the trigger wheel. Not made that yet, want to get the proper wheels rather than guess it on my cardboard mockup ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DE75EEC880.jpg What you can't see in the pics is that the mounting faces on the underside, are relieved by about 2mm to accommodate the lug stand-off. The backside of the bracket then sits against the diff plate, preventing any movement, and also means I don't run out of stud length when bolting it up onto the diff plate studs. Time tonight to scratch my head over the RHS item....which initially looked quite complex purely because there aren't many options, and the webs of the gearbox casing limits the HE sensor position. I was going to go with a dual tube option and a piece of plate ally bridging them, with the HE sensor mounted in-between....then I just thought about keeping it even simpler, shorter and probably more rigid, per below ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3923C3443E.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E99319BF8C.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DBEF1FCFC5.jpg Clearly it's not finished yet; the plan is to bore the cylindrical mount to the OD of a cap head allen bolt. This will be to a depth -2 or -3mm from the bottom and the cap head will replace the M8 stud. Cylindrical wall thickness should then be about the same as the plate holding the sensor. The base of the cylinder needs tapering to sit cleanly on the gearbox face, it's just a tad too large on the OD. The plate will then be welded onto the cylinder, and will *just about* clear the g'box case with the wires, whilst still giving me 0-3mm adjustment from the OD of the timing wheel. Because the plate will be welded eccentrically onto the cylinder, rotating the assembly will allow me to get the timing wheel centred to the sensor. And finally....... |
...I received an email this evening my the guy who's turning my brainwave into a reality for the boost gauge. I'm super excited....anything to do with watches or watch-like stuff....
Now my little secret can be revealed - I don't know of anyone else who's done this, certainly for a 964, but also perhaps for any air-cooled 911. The guy I'm working with would know for sure if another 964 had this, and to the best of his knowledge, this is #1! This is something we've been discussing for about 18mths now, so I finally got around to ordering a Stack Pro-Control Boost Gauge. The trouble is, as you may be able to tell, I don't like stuff to look too after market. The easiest thing in the world would be to make up a donut to mount a 52mm gauge into the space where the clock currently mounts. But there's so many things wrong with doing that... - Font is wrong - Too small - It has Stack printed all over it - Wrong hands.... So, much as I like the clock in the 964, something has to give. However....you can't just bin the clock, as it has a 12/13 warning lamps on the circumference. Which got me wondering, would it be possible to build the electronics of the Stack into the housing of the clock, and still retain the warning lamps?...Hmmm....I know a man who can ;) As you can see, it looks like he's done a stellar job. I think it's sent him quite potty, and it's certainly not the work of 5 minutes...EVERYTHING needed changing or making....even the glass has been a challenge; can't use 3mm per the originals, has to be 2mm....then finding somebody who can drill in the 2 holes for the programming and peak-recall buttons. And then, right at the final hurdle, the glass broke on final assembly! A quick re-ordering and another go at assembly, and it's now safely secured. Gaskets were custom made, the actuators for the buttons needed to be longer, then he had to think about exposing the Stack harness out the back, then make a screen printed face, correct font, spacing, legends for the warning lamps, etc.....then re-work one of the clock hands so it was the correct length and can be actuated by the stepper motor of the Stack...... ....and you can see my point, yes? The Stack unit itself is the best of the 3 they market; loads of tech, stepper motor, peak recalls, programmable, will flash different backlighting colours to warn of overboost (and vacuum), even has data output should you want it (I don't). Really nice bit of kit. I'm not sure whether we've been able to retain the original backlighting of the clock, so that it matches the other gauges with the sidelights/headlights on....perhaps not, it was such a squeeze getting it all in, that I wouldn't be surprised if something had to make way. Going to try and get there tomorrow and collect it. It's not finally finished yet, but these are some almost-finished pics he's sent me. The warning lamps are just about visible on the periphery; clearly the original clock had the legends pushed right out to the outside of the face, with the lamps in-between each hour baton, but we can't do that, the boost batons would sit on top of the lamp windows ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stgauge001.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stgauge002.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stgauge011.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stgauge008.jpg Before anyone asks, yes, I am also keeping the sender for the onboard computers boost display, but these are notoriously slow-witted and not that accurate. Plus, if i remember correctly, they only read up to 1.0bar. Do we like? :D:D |
(now, if these updates don't get me nominated for the monthly Pelican Newsletter, I dunno what will?!?!)
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I made a wheel speed input for one of my cars... much more cave man than yours
http://rennlist.com/forums/attachmen...l-img_0005.jpg |
Yep, does the trick though, eh? The Keep It Simple philosophy.
I sent a couple of pics to my pal at SBD whilst mid-way through making it, as they're going to be doing the CAD drawings and getting the wheels water cut....I commented that what should've been a 1-2hr piece of work has now taken almost 10! If I had a decent welder (mine's rubbish) and could weld (I can't...not well), I would've for sure made this out of steel and plated it - could've done it all in-situ, but trying to use The Force and ensure it sits mm perfect is a pain in the butt. |
It's going to be a great day. Just been over to collect the plated and anodised parts from Butterworths, and yet again, they've excelled themselves.
Both John and I were a little uncertain just how well the ally parts would come out. There was absolutely no chance of getting them turned around this side of Xmas if I'd have wanted them polished before anodising, so we decided to go with the brushed finish I'd done....apart from using polishing mops, soaps and/or polishing compound, this was as good as you're likely to get, finished off with some very fine Scotch-Brite pads. I was hoping that it'd come out with the same level of sheen as the intercooler, as I asked Chris to not make it too blingy; functional, but not quite "military" matt. The latest batch of parts has come out exactly as I was hoping - perfect, nor surface imperfections....they almost looks like professionally made parts! Before ----> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9D78B93D8F.jpg After ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FC70F9B668.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DFBFC924B7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B6B47BC5AF.jpg Throttle linkage ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1C71F0BD74.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ED2C6B1E93.jpg Now, those that have done this before will know (and Roland certainly will), that anodising welded parts is very quite a tough thing to do, depends heavily on the weld rods being used, as to how well it works with the anodising dyes. As you can see, the welds do look slightly different in shade, but frankly I'm not worried about this (and couldn't have done much about it anyway), as it's a hidden part under the intake manifold. Time to start building up the parts....back soon. |
Nice parts :)
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Just enjoying your work. Nice done so farSmileWavy
BTW, I know about the issues with welds on parts to anodize, but havent made my own expierences yet. |
Thanks guys!
Here's some pics of the throttle assembly now built-up ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3CA0E81C21.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...498B1E5906.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C04FDEBBFB.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...b5e79f0329.jpg |
That is such awesome work!!! I know that once this work is completed.....and if I had the oportunity, I would spend all day checking out all those mechanicals. Wow!
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Quick evening update....
Despite me assembling the eThrottle earlier it needed to come apart again, in order to install it under the intake manifold. Can't quite finish it tonight, as I need to machine some M8 nylocs a little thinner so that they lock. Too late and noisy to fire up the lathe, but it's in place now (hell, I hope the eGas throttle unit actually fits - sure I tried it a dozen times ages ago, but the angle of the pic has got me thinking...) --> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...47193C27E4.jpg The exhaust gas temperature sensors are now both installed with the newly plated female-female adapters and anodised bracket ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BC4F808780.jpg All the ignition amplifiers are now mounted, along with the heat transfer compound - God I hate this stuff, it always goes absolutely everywhere and is a swine to get off again, so due care given. Glad I got the M4 screws glad pass plated, just a little more factory looking and discrete ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...729AD01CFD.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D937FEF4D7.jpg And looking (IMO) quite stock-like once everything's in place - where there was once an EZ69.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5BF34A024A.jpg The MIL connectors are also now screwed into place for the final time....so chuffed with how these have turned out.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1EE57A24C4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...96B4874CC3.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...AA68E8CAAB.jpg Finally, I did get to collect the new Stack-VDO boost gauge....very pleased with it, Julian @ Reap Automotive Design has done an excellent piece of work. Next job is to sleeve and terminate the new harness that exits the rear of the gauge; another job for Simon @ Sileck.... |
Todays update....
The wheel speed sensors for the gearbox are now finished. The tube that mounts onto one of the case studs was bored out leaving a 5mm thick flat base. I had a change of plan; I did find a couple of genuine Porsche M8 studs in the box of bits, slightly longer than the stock one on the 'box.....but to would've meant making the ID too large to accommodate a 13mm socket, to tighten the nut. So, it was bored to the OD of a washer, and I'll use a cap head M8 bolt instead. The base is also now tapered so it sits square onto the casing ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7DC50271B3.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...59BBEC2EF5.jpg The sensor plate is also now tidied up, reduced to size and polished ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74DB8E66F2.jpg Unfirtunately, I'll have to now wait until the New Year until I can get Pete to weld it up, but it'll now look like this ----> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C09D8B93C7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BF984D16B8.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CB400E5162.jpg So, turning my attention back to the throttle linkage - thankfully the eGas potentiometer does fit - complete optical illusion and late night paranoia on my behalf! I found some nice M8 stainless Nylocs that I must've bought back in the summer for the Lotus (daren't fit anything other than stainless on that car!) - perfect, I can reduce the depth on these without worrying about compromising any plating. So, with a little lateral thinking about how to mount them squarely in order to remove material, I came up with this solution... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B152412232.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C231095CED.jpg ...using a parallel to set in into the 3-jaw chuck. A little chamfering on the new face, some de-burring and they work like an absolute bloody charm! The engine studs just protrude a smidge through the nylon section. Almost finished installing the eGas pot (not easy - one of the bolts is a nightmare to get to), and the adjacent fuel line is now secured out of the way of any abrasion risk using stainless rubber lined p-clips. ************************************************** ****************** And now it's time to down tools and spend time with the Family...Merry Christmas folks! |
Just some small updates this evening; bit of a late start so got some finishing jobs done:
The RHS wastegate is now plumbed in again, now that the hoses are finally run through the RHS tinware. Finished the throttle linkage install; the rear cap head screw for the eGas pot was an absolute pain - really hoping that this never needs changing. In fact (note to self) wondering whether to swap out the cap heads for hex heads so I can at least get a ratchet ring spanner on them. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...163866598D.jpg Routing and securing of the rear of the harness, plus running the head temp, cam position and crank position sensor wires through the tinware. Because the engines mounted on the basket, I can't finish installing the tinware itself, but have been able to juggle the position of each cable, and now wire up the throttle pot. Still looks like a birds nest.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...42FAF7BC19.jpg Whilst in a wiring frame of mind, I've now decided where to mount the K-Type thermocouple plugs. I really hate these basic, non-automotive, non-locking connectors, but they are what they are; it's the only approved connection that will allow an easy disconnect, should that be necessary....but quite pleased with their position - one on the LHS sensor bracket, the other RHS one next to the EGP sensor --> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E1850D6022.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7CC1F73F8B.jpg And finally, a quick swap over of the grounding cable. Nice new item, genuine Porsche so that the correct ring terminals are fitted, with the correct angles. New bolt/washer, then sprayed with waxoyl to prevent moisture ingress (most boring photo ever, but proof it was done!) ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...cb73de2df7.jpg Next job is to finish the intercooler mounting bracket stand-off pillar, and get the IC safely mounted back on the engine. For some reason, when inserting the 2 helicoils into the newly anodised pillar, the last coil has slipped downwards when breaking off the driving tab. Will probably need to drill them out on the lathe and re-do. Grrr. |
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To extract the helicoil, I found an old drill bit that was a tad smaller than the ID used to drill and tap for the coil, then re-ground it with a reverse leading edge, and used it as a screwdriver to undo the helicoil, the taper of the drill bit ensuring it didn't slip. Simple: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...83A3F170BC.jpg ....2mins later and the blighters were back out and the anodised part completely undamaged. This had been niggling me this last few days, in the way that those supposedly easy 2min jobs do, when they don't turn out to be 2min jobs! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...829BE67B3B.jpg You can see the last thread where it had sprung out of it's external holding thread. I was either being a pansy and not being sharp enough with the blow to the tang removal tool, or I was being ham-fisted and whacked it too hard. Either way, new ones in place, a short-sharp-blow to the tang removal tool, and we're good again. Once my daughters in bed this evening, I can then get the IC mountings aligned for the final time. The next job will be to start mocking up some heat shields for the turbo. I don't want to fit a turbine thermal jacket - not heard good things about them over on the Turbo forum, as they seem to trap too much heat in the unit, potentially damaging the impeller bearings. However, I don't want all that heat radiating freely to the tinware and inside of the bumper. My idea at the moment, is to use the gold reflective tape to stick on the underside of the tinware, then use some of the Nimbus corrugated aluminium sheet (as they use on my Lotus) to form a box section around the turbo itself, and also possibly as a simple shield that sits between the silencer and the tin. Depends how many cereal boxes I can muster! |
I am looking fwd to seeing how you handle the heat shielding. I might copy that.
Merry Christmas. |
Continue like that Spencer, you work great well! ;-)
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For some reason, it just wasn't happening today - not in the groove for some reason. Anyway, got a few bits done and others started.
I noticed that where the RHS wastegate pipes run under the AC pump assembly, the edge of the mounting bracket looks like it was a potential chafe area: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...47BF51E7A1.jpg So, a quick removal of the whole unit, some die grinding and filing, and it's now got a nice radius and is safe to sit against the hoses. Only a small detail, but it's the sort of issue that will strike later on and be an absolute sod to try and track down. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...807E91E4C6.jpg The starter motor and a new clutch slave cylinder are also now fitted to the gearbox. I had the common 964 "sticky clutch pedal" before the project. I know it can either be the hose to the slave cylinder, the slave cylinder itself or the pedal assembly. I've also got a new hose, so that's 2 of the 3 possibles changed.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...4B85B4A2F7.jpg And it means I can now eyeball the new +Ve cable that Simon made for me last week - it should be perfect, and I'll use the same 90deg brackets that the reverse switch uses (removed in these pics, for replating) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BC93FF7842.jpg And I've also started to make the template for the heat shield that'll sit behind and over the turbo, as well as behind the silencer. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7B3C357D2D.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C3F3EC1496.jpg Finally, whilst making the above template, I bolted up the silencer with the new Lambda sensor.....arse.....clearance issue. Of course, I didn't have this problem before, as the previous tinware was so moth-eaten, that the top of the Lambda sat in fresh air. Not this time, it fouls the new, freshly coated tin. Dammit, time to cut a decent sized relief, to cater for any fine tuning of the silencer alignment ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3A71E5282C.jpg Now, as it happens, yes it's a complete pain that it now needs to go for re-coating (had I known before, I could've taken it along a few weeks ago with the RHS tin...hindsight), but I was probably going to have to drill a few more small holes into the top for mounting the Nimbus material. At least I can get them protected as well, once all trial fits have been finished. Hopefully I'll feel a little more enthusiastic tomorrow, and get that cardboard template finished, then onto the front wheel speed sensors. A roll of gold reflective tape and a sheet of Nimbus Lite has now been ordered. A load of metal stock has also now been ordered; I need to make two top-hat caps to go into the end of the stub shafts on the front uprights - will post some pics later when I get started. I also need to make 4x blanking plugs for the wastegates, as I'm now not using water to cool them (yet), but neither do I want them open to the UK elements. They're M8x1.0 - next to impossible to buy a bolt with metric fine thread, so have ordered a length of 13mm AF hex stainless and an M8 die, and will make some. Have also ordered a length of ally hex in 19mm AF, to make a blanking plug for where a temp sensor (or was it a pressure switch?) used to mount on the chimney housing plate. For the time being I've put an old temp sensor (from the timing chain covers) in to plug the hole and stop ingress. It's the position of the red circle (photo pinched from another thread I was searching earlier) ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1300942852.jpg Now, last night when I was trying to ascertain the thread, it came up very close to 9/16 UNF.....but for the life of me, I can't fathom why two German manufacturers would put an imperial thread in there....and reading elsewhere, I'm now thinking it's probably M14 x 1.5. The sensor measures up as 13.84mm @ 1.5mm pitch or 0.544" @ 18tpi (9/16 UNF = nominal OD of 0.5625")....both options are very close. Before I go and order another die, could somebody confirm for me pls? Thanks in advance... |
A stroke of luck today - Pete the welder was in the workshops, so quickly dashed over to get the wheel speed sensor bracket welded. After some cleaning up, it'll come up great.
Also started work on the rear bumper - only because the weather was lovely and was able to get it outside to work on. What was going to be a simple bracket swap....(the old ones are pretty shot, to say the least!) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C10342F081.jpg ....has now turned into another sub-project. I had some left-over foil fronted heat matting from the Westfield, so although the rear bumper on the 964 does have some heat shielding in place, it's not the best - just basic aluminium with foil stuck to the bodywork side. There are also a couple of the mounting bolts that have pulled through, so they need repairing. Thankfully, despite some major galvanic reaction, all 5 bolts came out without shearing, and I'll stick on the matting to further enhance the heat management. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...91317D7F23.jpg The turbo shield is pretty laughable; with some of the Nimbus material that I've have surplus, I'll remake this item with more enclosed sides. It does mount nicely onto the brackets (I'm replacing) though. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2519771304.jpg Some remedial work needs to be done on the bumper itself though; looks like one of the exhaust tips has at some point been wrongly located, and has damaged some of the paintwork. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9445C0EAB6.jpg Also, the metal strip that's riveted to the black trim is very much in need of powder coating.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1845E91FD0.jpg So, another few items to add to the list, but worth spending the time on it now. At some point I'll get my pal Shaun to repaint the bumper; it's "ok", perhaps an 8/10, but the seams where the two corner parts join to the centre section are showing signs of poorly applied paint. Have got plenty of paint left over from the engine lid work, so it won't be too much of a chore to get it done once the engine work is complete (there's a good chance that the bumper will need to be removed a couple of times anyway - risk of damage). Back later this evening with another update. |
Quite a productive day, and certainly a lot more enjoyable than yesterday.
So, following up on the earlier post, the bumpers inner heat shield that mounts onto the box section aluminium structure was removed, washed and prepped for sticking. Five M6 repair washers were used to fix the areas that had corroded and pulled through. The washers are going to be sandwiched between the ally and the heat cloth, so contact adhesive was used to keep them in place (you can just about see one of them on the far right in the photo) Contact adhesive was then used to stick the middle section; have run out now until tomorrow, but will get some to then finish the end sections ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...81493EAAC1.jpg The welded rear wheel speed sensor has now been cleaned up and re-polished ready for anodising. Fits beautifully - the angle of the HE sensor vs the timing wheel is bang-on. Not bad for a quick cardboard wedge that I made to help set the angle when tacking :D Similar pics to previously....just nicer. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8D4EB7D34E.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DA58AC7235.jpg This evening I got around to shuffling the car around and took all the measurements I need for the front ABS timing wheel and front upright, in anticipation of the ally stock arriving in the next day or so. Now all drawn-up on the whiteboard, so it shouldn't take me too long to turn them on Wednesday. In the pics below, you can see the intended orientation of the HE sensor, but I need to check with Craig/Steve @ SBD whether the teeth of this wheel pass close enough to the centre of the sensor for it to register. Got a feeling it's not going to do the job, so will start thinking of a Plan B....perhaps it may require another 8x tooth wheel to be mounted onto the ABS wheel. Instead of having the trigger teeth on the outside of the circumference, maybe invert the design, so they sit on the inside of the "polo" ring. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E38FC2DBAD.jpg The sensor will sit through a top-hat end cap, essentially an aluminium replacement for the plastic caps that Porsche use to cover the end of the stub axle. I'll then drill and tap a retaining hole into the upright, that will secure the top hat. Wondering how much of a ball-ache it would be to remove that stub axle bolt and get the timing wheel out?..... |
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The plan at the moment is to indeed look at an inverted timing wheel, as described yesterday, rough diagram below ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...56DC95B0D0.jpg Oh well, unless the lead-times are daft, we'll get these cut from an outfit that does water cutting, locally to SBD. I'll then look to secure to the ABS timing wheel using 4x M3 countersunk screws....wonder what the chances are like of being able to drill and tap these into the stub axles, in-situ...hmmm The heat proofing material arrived today. My overriding thought is that of not getting much for £65! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DBF9269912.jpg Template not yet finished, but have bought some very short 3/16" pop rivets and M5 washers, so that when I need to assemble the various sections of the Nimbus sheet, it'll be done robustly and they shouldn't pull through. The bumper inner heat shield is now finished; just about managed to line the whole item with the sheet of material I had spare. It wasn't a new sheet, so it's not 100% neat, but pretty good and a damn sight better than what was there before ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E8D7D59691.jpg As it happens, I'll be driving past my pal Shauns workplace tomorrow, so have decided to pull forward the bumper respray. Am currently stripping it down into the (many) component parts, then dividing it into the 3 sections so that it can be sprayed properly. Goddamn it, i hope the pillock that decided to put a single stud in either part to hold it to the centre section, has been fired. Trying to remove the nut from the stud was a hell of a job, and I'll be surprised if the blue cloud of swearing has moved from my house by the morning. Tried a couple of options; grinding a slot to try and use a screwdriver hold the stud - nada. Then ground some flats onto the "head" to try and use a spanner, with mixed success - trouble is, hot metal = melted plastic. Got them off eventually but took over an hour and have damaged one half of the RH side. Want to punch that prat in the mouth for that piece of s**t design. Anyway, more or less stripped for spraying. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...64761A04E1.jpg While this is being done, some of the fixtures can be re-plated with the next batch of items. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ABF5E59D64.jpg ....this is feeling very much like the rear wing project all over again.... |
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Always thought that reflective matting was the best approach in combatting excessive heat vs. wrapping. Sticker shock to say the least. |
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Just a quick update this evening....
After spending a lot of time making the cardboard template for the heat shield, I've spent the last few evenings carefully transposing this on the (above) Nimbus Lite material, then binding into shape and riveting. Not a quick job by any means, but I have to say, I'm rather pleased with the end result. Just loosely fitted for the time being, as I need to drill out 5-6 pilot holes in the tinware next. ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_0210.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_0006.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_0004.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_0005.jpg So, the next job is to get the tinware re-coated; coating has now been compromised with the tinware fixing and the semi-circular cutout needed to clear the Lambda sensor (did I mention that previously?). Once it's back I can then apply the gold foil tape to the underside, that'll sit behind the Nimbus material. For info (again, forgive me if this is a repost) here's the spec for the Nimbus material --> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...08at010423.png With regards to the lights and reflector I mentioned previously, I went across to my pal Brians house at the weekend to check out some almost new lights, and the brand new reflector on his own car....good news insomuch that one of my rear lights and the reflector itself are in very good condition, indiscernible fading, I hadn't realised that (new) they are pretty pink in comparison to the 993 lights/reflector. So, no need to replace the LHS light, I've taken a new RHS light (for some reason a unit made in 1989 was fitted, and looked a little tired), now I've just got to either play around with trying to repair the reflector mounts using plastic welding (need to identify the type of plastic first) or stump up the readies for a new unit. But at least I know they'll all match without having to buy a whole new set. Have also got a double-switch switch unit from a Carrera 4 centre console - unfortunately it has an LED mounted, as do a lot of UK cars for the dealer fit alarm lamp - but I can re-purpose this with a tricolour LED that will be hooked up to the boost control switch, illuminating different colours for each preset boost level - bright red for the Spinal Tap setting, of course. Ok, that's about it....time to call it a night. |
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Hi dear Spencer, How are you? Thanks for your post. It helps a lot :) ------------------------------- NCH High-Precision |
You are chasing the dream, not the competition. Do not stop until you are happy!
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Dontcha just hate when you have a full daily update typed and ready to submit, and the browser token expires...and loses the whole bloody lot?!
[Take 2] This weekend I’ve spent hours on the lathe; the metal stock finally arrived on Friday (it was only ordered straight after Christmas. Grr), so I was able to get on and make the ally blanking plug for the “chimney”; I’m no longer using the temp sender that’s normally used, and thanks Chris for confirming it’s M14x1.5. Ordered a new tailstock die holder; far easier than trying to square up a handheld die holder against the tail stock, and a lot more accurate. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_0009.jpg One complete plug, ready for anodising. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_0011.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_0010.jpg Then time to use the 13mm AF stainless stock to make the 4x M8x1.0 plugs that close off the water cooling ports on the wastegates - I don’t want anything open to the elements, just invites detritus to play havoc later on down the line. As I think I mentioned a few weeks ago, trying to buy M8 fine-thread fixings is not easy; tried my usual supplier of fixings, and he couldn't even think of anyone else to recommend. So, not going to naff about trying to track down something that's kind of "ok"...buy more tools and make some! Was surprised how long these took; quite fiddly getting the exact thread depths right, then grinding a custom tool to make the narrow undercut at the end of the thread. While I was at it, decided to tart them up and use a centre drill to hollow them out a little. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6091.jpg (still a little dirty with cutting lube) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6098.jpg Couldn’t find the packet of crush washers, so used that parting off tool again to quickly make four out of some ally stock….just finished flatting them, then found the packet. Sods law. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6097.jpg This morning, for a bit of a break, got around to doing a simple job - replace the short guide tube on the input shaft of the gearbox with the new one needed for the 964RS lightweight flywheel. I never ever regret buying any tools, quite often ones bought on an impulse but with no immediate requirement….they alway come in useful at some point, case-in-point being a (manual) impact driver set and a pneumatic impact wrench. I think I’ve used the hand impact driver once, and never used the air tool, preferring to always do wheel nuts manually….but I was glad to have both this morning as those M6 countersunk screws were well and truly “in”. The Philips bit form the impact set, plus the air tool, and it came out extremely easily. Must remember to use it more often…. Old tube —> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6093.jpg Side-by-side —> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6095.jpg New tube in place —> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6105.jpg |
Finally…FINALLY I’ve sorted out the blessed windscreen washer tank screw cap annoyance. I had to buy a whole complete secondhand tank off of my pal Brian, but it was money well spent, as I’ve got a nice unbroken, clean screw cap. Note to self, don’t use allen key to remove or replace the cap in future….anyone need a new washer tank? :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6096.jpg Then, this afternoon it was time to hop back onto the lathe and make a start on the next big job, the top-hats that will house the hall effect sensors on the front wheels, for the 4 wheel traction control setup. These need to be pretty damn accurate to ensure that vibration won’t affect the readings, so lots of patience, lots of measurements. The aluminium billet blanks —> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6106.jpg In the 3-jaw chuck for the first machining operation, a face, then turn the OD, then bore it so that it clears the trigger wheel that’s already mounted to the stub axle. Got to use a load of tools for the first time; the jaws in the chuck you see below, the new carbide tips I’ve got that are meant for turning ally; very impressed with the surface finish of these. Also my new 10mm boring bar to get the centre started, before moving onto the 16mm tool to really start removing material quickly —> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6100.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6102.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6101.jpg Lots of coolant = lots of splash. Good job I haven’t yet refitted the inner arches….they came in useful! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6099.jpg Then reverse it to face the outer surface, machining it down to the exact depth (6.6mm) that will accommodate a stainless M6 helicoil for the HE sensor. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6104.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_6103.jpg The next machining operation will be to put a notch into the tube, about 10mm wide and 10mm deep, in order to clear the tip of the ABS magnetic sensor already in place on the hub. Following that, the piece will be offset mounted into the 4-jaw chuck, so I can bore the hole for the hall effect sensor. May have to hold-off doing this for a while, as ideally I ought to get the trigger wheels made and installed, then double-check the offset required. Would hate to cock them up on the last phase. Finally, the hub will need drilling and tapping to accommodate a small cap-head screw (or maybe a grub screw) to lock the top-hat into the hub. Very pleased with todays efforts, especially with being able to get every dimension on the top-hats to within 0.02mm of my drawings. Along with the tools I ordered the other day, I also bought a 3MT test bar, and a 4MT>3MT adapter to allow a centre to fit into the headstock. With another centre in the tailstock and the test bar mounted between centres, I did a quick DTI check on the tailstock alignment - about 0.1mm out over the length, so could be adjusted a little tighter, but not wildly out for what I need at the moment. I'll check headstock alignment later this week, but again judging by how well todays parts have come out, and how nice the lathe cuts in general, it feels pretty good. |
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Typical me, when over at Brians again the other day, I took my (extremely good condition, practically perfect...) LHS light and did a side-by-side comparison...and somehow talked myself into going the whole hog and buying the other new one he had. Was there any difference? Hmmm....the tiniest of tiny spider cracks was starting on mine, but in terms of colour difference, no. Oh well, I'll sleep a little easier knowing my OCD was been satisfied. Just need to fix that reflector now, but I confess to thinking that it may be worth investing my time on the real project rather than trying to plastic weld the old one - perhaps successfully, but quite possibly not....on top of buying a decent welding kit and the plastic sheeting. May succumb and use that ultra useful plastic tool that's 4"x2".....(man maths; I saved on the cost of buying the new lights....therefore more budget to buy the reflector?) |
Interim update tonight. Managed to get a flying start after finishing work this evening; straight into the workshop without any distractions.....
Got the second top-hat made - took less than half the time of the first, dimensionally spot-on again, and a lovely fit inside the upright. You can see below how they're going to fit; clearly the one below isn't all the way in, they need those reliefs machining to clear the ABS sensor, which will be tomorrow nights task. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9FFF1EBAA2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F06FD03466.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FF1FFAE8F9.jpg No more garage work this evening - need to get some drawings done for the trigger wheels and get them underway. |
Some quick tinkering whilst sitting in front of the telly watching a replay of the Colts beat the Broncos (at home...bye bye Peyton, imho)
Took the Carrera 4 switch panel apart, ready for Simon to play with it and get some rotary switches to fit. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9B900C0C39.jpg As you can see, not much to them; I thought that there'd be a momentary switch unit housed inside the white tubes, but actually the white tubes are the housing with the sprung contacts, actuator and contact plate all loaded into the tube. Quite tough to undo, rigid plastics and 3 x detents that need to be wiggled out, but do-able. A quick wash later (you wouldn't believe how much food crummage there was under the switch knobs) and it looks good as new. Really hoping we can use some guerrilla engineering to meld our functions into the stock looking panel. Even the switch legends are kind-of right....the left hand one = pic of rear of the car = engine bay = boost setting. The RH legend = 4wd bias adjust = i.e., traction = traction control setting. Squinting. And with imaginative thinking.... |
Can I just say I am genuinely jealous, not just of the tediousness, but the knowledge on your side for this build.
I am currently building my 964 C2 and converting it to Turbo, because the engine needs a rebuild anyhow, but so many things I need to look into looking at your build, that I am now even more afraid of the bill awaiting me at the end the Misses that will likely ban me from any decisions for the rest of my life. :/ |
Hey Undutched! Many thanks for the kind words, appreciate it.
I'm sure that conversions can be done far simpler than the way I'm doing it, but my compulsion to absolutely not refit any items that are dirty or corroded has really added a lot of time to the project, waiting for re-plating, powder coating and buying new parts. I also like creating parts, looking at something and wondering if I can improve upon it...the "hot rod" spirit, but again, that adds so much time. There's nothing to be afraid of, I'd never built a Porsche engine before (although have built numerous other engines and have an engineering background, so cleanliness and thoroughness are second nature), and everything I've done on the engine is all documented in Waynes book, plus searching of Forums. That's why I'm being very thorough on my documentation, so that guys like you can benefit and see how I tackled a problem (it may not be the *best* way, and at the moment of course, it's unproven)....but you can see every little detail. So....it doesn't need be this in-depth, and certainly working with Chris at TurboKraft has been so great. The best route would be to get everything you need as a kit of parts from Chris (and our hosts, of course) and build it yourself, or....if you really want to be 100% sure, I would crate the engine and ship it to him...which actually isn't that expensive versus the time and effort of doing it yourself. It keeps it simple, a lot faster and probably a lot more cost effective, as there's far less risk of "scope creep" and doing things while-you're-at-it. |
I have contacted Chris on several occasions and actually referenced back to this thread to talk about my fuel system (and what I'd need), which needs to be completely redone in any case, to suit the turbo.
I am in contact with vendors that are all on this forum: Raceboy (ECU), Edelweiss (that's where my engine is) and Chris (support mods and that itty bitty more) and of course a thread like this, that gives you goose-bumps, both good and bad :) On some occasions I've thought "I'd wonder if he could do another one" And thank you for clearing up your work. That does make my heart feel a little lighter! Just to add something to this thread. An exhaust builder here uses the reflective tape on the exhaust systems themselves: https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...78fcf0bf0f7512 https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...d3&oe=55223B7D |
Hmm interesting....lots of work gone into that, although does look to be a hard way of achieving the same thing as the exhaust wrap tape -->
Titanium Exhaust Wrap Or even these jackets (which I confess, I wasn't aware of until a few moments ago) ---> Exhaust Jackets ...and arguably far less serviceable, should the need arise. I used the tape wrap on my Westfield, where the over-the-chassis-rail 4-1 manifold came very close to the engine cover....worked beautifully, really controlled the temps, looked ok once painted in the black paint that you can also buy.....BUT....there is a school of thought with exhaust wrapping like this (and I'm referring to a discussion I read that was specific to the Vauxhall/GM XE "red top" engine, not Porsche flat 6's) where the increased internal temps at the start of the primaries had a significant detrimental effect on the cylinder head. Now, I never suffered any damage on my XE Red Top, so it could be urban myth, but I also do know that moisture that collects when heating/cooling sits between the manifold and the wrap and can speed up corrosion. ETA - this Zircotec solution is probably the ideal way of overcoming all the above, and one I've considered; I may come back to that as Phase 2, once we've established that the geometry of my headers work well and there's no alterations needed.. |
From what he told me is that it has a few advantages.
1. Can be placed in any location, around any type of bend or material 2. Does not need to be replaced, but can be repaired 3. exhaust wrap, if not done correctly is not as effective, especially around bends 4. Exhaust wrap will deteriorate after time I am not sure how it compares to ceramic or other coatings, or whether price is the choice for or against more use. Here is his facebook (has no site) https://www.facebook.com/pages/Abgastechnik-Hiller/210854442351009 |
Bloody...freaking...brilliant.
Oh how I wish I still had access to machine tools. |
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