|
Ok folks, not too much of an update, we're treading-water a little at the moment.
For a few short hours, it did look as though this coming Monday was going to be *the* day for taking the engine up to DTW and hooking it up to the dyno, then Tues & Wed to map. But...availability for Steve and (realistically) myself has thwarted that plan. In some ways a good thing, we definitely don't want to be rushed, in case there are a few glitches in the install, or any remedial actions that are required on the day. There's also some homework for me to be doing, getting all the specs of the electronics together for Steve to have at hand (more of which lower down), and not having to search around finding stuff once the dyno clock starts ticking....5 x P's, etc.... So, at the moment I'm trying to socialise some mutual dates towards the end of the silly season of people wanting their engines done when it's hours before the racing starts. Hopefully will know more in a day or two. In the intervening period, Steve plans on populating the map sites for ignition and fuel so that we can get it fired-up. In parallel:
Anglo American Oils in the UK sell Joe Gibbs....DT50 in 1qt bottles (no idea why Joe Gibbs can't package it in 5litre bottles; I know that one of their other products is supposed to be exactly the same formula, but just marketed under a different sub-brand, and is available in 5litres) 25 bottles and £213 later..... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...621AADDB4B.jpg ************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************* Now, an appeal for help please guys...there's plenty of you reading this, so hoping that somebody will have contacts they can reach out to...many vBeer tokens waiting... I need detailed spec info for the Denso CoP coils. The part numbers are: 129700-3881 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1D8059B12A.jpg
The units came in Honda packaging; I *think* from a Fireblade, but I'm pretty sure they're common to the S2000 car as well (I'll check later) A pal of mine who was at Le Mans last year used to work for Honda, so he's very kindly offered to see if any of his contacts can shed any light on them. BUT...as a plan B, if anyone out there can also help, please shout. This could royally screw the schedule for the project at this point, possibly having to swap them for Bosch/VAG units where we can get data (but losing out on the fact that they're utter crap in terms of reliability), and then have to have another think about mounting them, then having to modify the harness Not what we need to be doing right before going on a dyno. Thanks in advance guys S |
A little more Googling and I stumbled across this....again, it's not official from Denso, and it's not the same part number, but according to the post, "they all behave similarly"....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2022.16.09.png ...still wouldn't mind finding something official and for the exact part.... |
Great Spencer, deeply the continuation! :)
|
Okay, not so much happening this week....a quick synopsis...
...what a cracking bit of kit! Went indoor skiing with Lucy over the weekend, set it to 1080p SuperSize (it also has a couple of 2.7k and 4k settings!), and the quality for the first time out was amazing. Have been meaning to buy one for ages, very pleased I now have, another recommendation. Seeing as I've got plenty of time now before mapping the engine, I may well have another attempt to get the engine/'box into the car this weekend for a dry-run, make sure everything clears and take dimensions for the largest air filter I can squeeze in. I can then put another call into the guys at ITG to get a custom one made (unless a stock one happens to fit - unlikely with a 3" intake). Actually, that was a longer update than I thought.... |
Hello Spencer,
Your project moves forward very well, even if you would like that it moves forward faster, I am in the same case! Of the evil is born the good(property), this time(weather) which appears to you too much allows you on the other hand to reflect well about your project and to choose the best elements. Courage! :) |
For your coils, if you can't find the data, it seems fairly simple to measure them up.
Like this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/640218-crane-xr700-capacitive-discharge.html PM me your email and I'll send you the Excel I used to figure ignition energy from amperage, inductance and resistance of the coils I measured. The Denso coils are a different form factor but they are still coils. You don't need much specialized equipment just an inductance meter, a precise ohmmeter and a signal generator to drive the input (at a low voltage level, no interest in welding at the kitchen table!) and an oscilloscope to measure the output. See also here (this is a study I did of ancient coils but the principles of inductive ignition haven't changed since the 1910 Cadillac. A lucky eBay find: NOS SWB Coil |
Thanks John...PM sent...will have a read through those links later on with a cuppa. ;)
|
A quick update in-between races at the first round of WSB from Phillip Island...
Whilst doing a bit more homework for the dyno session, and measuring the rotational angles between the 60-2 toothed FW and the crank sensor, I also needed to take some pics (and measure) the position of the cam sensor vs the pickup, all whilst #1 is a TDC on the compression stroke. The position is configurable in the MBE, that's no problem, but the one place you really don't want the pickup to be @TDC is right over the sensor..... .....no prizes for guessing where mine was..... God know's how I managed to do this; the position of the sensor boss was something I chose a couple of years ago, got it fabricated, etc....the pickup I drilled/tapped into the boss of what was the smog pump drive pulley, and I can see why I mounted it where I did, it's right in-between the two drive lugs for the oil pump....logical enough...but by happenstance (I think) the sensor is exactly in the wrong place. Leaving it like this, it can present an indeterminate position. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C4D993C24D.jpg Good job we checked now. So, time to re-engineer it. I could've drilled and tapped another M8 hole at a 45˚ offset, but in hindsight M8 is way too big. Time to make a new boss...... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9BA6D105_1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B430752B_1.jpg This time, knowing that if we do need to move it whilst on the dyno, I've pre-emptively drilled and tapped 6 holes to give us complete flexibility. Of course, only really needed 3 holes, as the boss itself can be rotated 180˚....but by drilling the other 3, it looks symmetrical and is probably balanced better. Also made a new pickup that has squared off leading and trailing edges...again, no idea why I made the last one from a machined down cap-head with round pickup. New position with #1 @ TDC/compression.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8C6C4EE919.jpg Something else I checked was the position of the drive pin for the pump in relation to the capheads that drive it; it *probably* would've been ok, but it was a tad borderline with the pin only just engaging deep enough between the heads. So, a couple of 1.5mm ally spacers now sit under the bolts that hold the boss onto the end of the cam. Can't believe that this has taken the best part of the day to re-do. Oh well, will try and modify the chassis lifting plates first-thing tomorrow (see one of the early pages; the Pelican supplied plates that come with the engine lifting bar, I presume are for earlier chassis than the 964; they're far too small to bolt onto the chassis' engine mountings). Dad's then coming over to assist with the installation of the engine/box....hoping to show a few pics of the engine sitting in place, and the car looking a little less 4x4, for a short while at least. |
Really REALLY productive day today!
Bright and early start to make the chassis lifting plates, mentioned yesterday. Some lovely weather this morning meant it was time to any the neighbours with the angle grinder, and after an hour or so, got them made ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1EDA354298.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0939DC93E1.jpg The asymmetric design of the slam panel on the 964 (is this the same as the early chassis?) means that the LH eye is completely inaccessible if mounted on the rear-most bolt hole. Ridiculous. So, some re-drilling and re-positioning of the yellow plate onto the new base plate has got it a bit better, but certainly wouldn't start hoisting the car without packing the slam panel well with some rubber matting, the chains and hook are far too close. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...72D2C4ADF6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...952801985B.jpg The RHS is fine.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...30EBCB6E93.jpg |
Then it was time to give my Dad a call and for us to get cracking with the dry-run installation. A good opportunity to practice the procedure, and had a great afternoon together, on the same wavelength and making steady and careful progress.
Car rolled halfway out in readiness.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...33336EA54E.jpg The engine and gearbox all bolted up and ready to manoeuvre..... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...433BB84889.jpg ...and, er, Dad getting ready to move the unit ("no, not that bit Dad..."). Actually...this pic looks a bit strange now.... :eek: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CE27F06A94.jpg Fear not, the engine was chocked from underneath, it wasn't about to fall off the ATV jack. Slowly but surely.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...42495C19FD.jpg Gradual lowering of the chassis, and raising of the ATV jack, literally millimetres at a time...check, double check, lower, check again. A bit like patting your head and rubbing your stomach, checking 4/5/6 things at once to ensure no cock-ups. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...A3713C068F.jpg And once the gearbox mount is bolted, it was a little easier knowing that dimension had been taken care of, time to just square it up, raise a bit more and.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...30CDF5653D.jpg Dad looking very pleased with progress. Actually, think he was more pleased with the fact I hadn't subjected him to a barrage of ill-tempered swearing and spanner throwing! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3B74C1D4F6.jpg |
Then time to find that box of engine mounts I bought over 3yrs ago from Gert at Carnewal ...very nice guy, and a day-trip that Dad and I went on, over to Belgium for a car parts shopping spree.
A set of genuine 964RS engine mounts, and amazing how much lighter they are versus the stock items. These with the firmer G50 gearbox tail mount from Chris @ TurboKraft plus the Golden Rod shift linkage, should tighten everything up very nicely. Anyway, the mounts seem to work a treat, easy to line up..unremarkable in that respect. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D81559FFAE.jpg ....and she's in.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...57142B2F27.jpg And now I have something resembling what I remember my car looking like, rather than some horrendous monster truck thing.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D6A85C87_2.jpg Can't tell you how chuffed I am. Has the engine got to come back out? Yes, of course it has, but it was only 4hrs of work to put it in this afternoon, and that was with tea break, and some stopping and re-remembering the procedure, then having to remove the AC pump (to clear the slam panel) and starter motor (to clear the RH driveshaft). Getting it back out won't be a big job, there's not going to be any oil filling, just purely an opportunity to check everything but also, now I have a few weeks spare, I can look at fabricating the air intake tract to the turbo. And by God it looks bloody tight, so definitely not something you can do unless the engine's in. Now...I may just be tempted to go back outside this evening and try fitting the intercooler....well, it'd be rude not to, eh?... |
Intercooler fitted....IMHO, it looks bloody gorgeous....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D4E7974BF5.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C407973B63.jpg Some pics of the underside, need to install the Nimbus heat shield, then make sure the silencer and tailpipes fit ok. Got the LHS wastegate back on - needed to remove it earlier to squeeze the engine through the workshop>garage door (about 3mm clearance...) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...56A428298B.jpg Hoooligan.... :D:D http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...697424CFF6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...81E4B39956.jpg |
I think I've found a perfect candidate for the air filter location; I didn't realise that there'd be quite so much room behind the intercooler, and am now very glad I re-worked the BOV orientation a few years ago; as it happens I'd have had enough clearance between it and the rear firewall, but now that it's out of the way, I can use this space to hopefully get a jumbo filter housed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F266E35364.jpg The other job I need to do is alter the AC lines; for the time being, they just about sit under the IC but they're not going to stay there. By my reckoning, if the ally feed and return lines are removed, then the U-bend interface to the rubber hoses removed, the new rubber lines could then run along the back of the engine bay right across to the RHS, then a 90º bend to bring them forward to the AC pump. Simple. I hope. The air intake to the turbo - as mentioned previously - is very tight and not so simple. I may have to resort to what the stock 964T intake pipe has, with a squashed side. Hoping not, would look a little rubbish, but it's going to be tricky. The ducting hose form the shroud isn't in there yet either... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...416EF31B7A.jpg Then run the 3" pipe from the front to the back, then a 90º bend to take it behind and parallel with the intercooler. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DE81AAECA4.jpg ...should be *interesting*.... |
It looks amazing. All your attention to detail shows. Bloody gorgeous!
Btw, got tickets for my first Le Mans - stoked. |
The lack of room for the air inlet of the turbo is very disturbing, I have the impression that you have some less of place that I! RUF had modified the tube to avoid a decrease of the section.
Courage Spencer, you soon arrive at the purpose! |
Quote:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1424701596.jpg Symmetrical. |
Quote:
Super clean engine bay - very nice. Liking that polished AC pump! |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Singer in begun his(its) very first preparations on type G (base of 3.2), he(it) then took frames of 964. :) |
Not much to update on this week I'm afraid, just some planning and investigating the repair of the bumper section (mentioned a few weeks ago).
I took the ally beam across to Pete for welding - no dice - the bracketry is too far gone to be able to get a clean weld on it. Unfortunately it's not just the top half of the bracket that's affected either, the bottom half is also shot when we looked at it closer. Hmmm. Time to make a new pair. One option would be to look at making them out of stainless steel; thinner gauge material could be used, therefore some sections could be bent with a radius without fouling anything. Galvanic corrosion would need to be looked at; potentially just putting a film of Waxoyl between the ally beam and the SS brackets could be sufficient; so long as the electrolyte material (water) is kept out, it should be good. Or, the K.I.S.S. principle and remake in ally, fabricating sections of right angle together to mimic the originals. I may look at making a jig, so that whatever method we choose, I can make more in the future. A little shocked to find that one decent gust of wind would've been enough to cause my mountings to fail; hand pressure was more than enough to crack mine right through - there's bound to be an epidemic of this issue if folk were to look behind the plastic bumper itself. Onto other news....some of you guys may know that I absolutely love watches - wouldn't say I'm a master horologist, but am in the camp of "unhealthy addiction". I was sober for 3 months....until last night when I went eBay searching for something and stumbled upon a few items that will combine my passion for this car with my love of timepieces and planes. But it's far from orthodox....Per my updates before Christmas, my Stack/VDO-a-like boost gauge is now with me, but it does mean sacrificing the lovely, simple dash clock. Then I found this, and wondered if I could somehow integrate it into the car. No, you're right, it does COMPLETELY fly in the face of keeping the car original looking, I appreciate that....but for some cool items, I'll gladly consider exceptions. :D http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../Watches/2.jpg What is it?....haha, why it's a clock from a MIG-29 fighter, of course! Kind of fitting....completely mechanical, so in the same way you wind your favourite timepiece before wearing it for the day, so I will before embarking on any journey. 3-day power reserve, has a +27v connection should you need to prevent the unit from fogging (!!), and - get this - it was basically a copy by the Russians of a Jaeger LeCoultre designed movement. It also has a flight timer clock. Current thinking is to fabricate a unit to sit where the ashtray aperture is, in the lower dash area, something I can get trimmed in black leather to match the rest of the dash trim. The bezel of the unit needs attention, but I really like it. If it doesn't work out, then I'll just make it into a nice bedside clock. ....and, in line with that addiction, I couldn't leave it at just one timepiece :rolleyes: ..... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tches/face.jpg This one is a NOS clock as used in either nuclear missile silo or submarines. It's a 48hr clock, designed to be more logical where the operators had no access to daylight. One revolution per 24hr period, with a "1" or "2" in the window @1500/1600 to indicate which 24hr period you were in. Again, mechanical movement, but this one will be a desk clock. Appropriate, seeing as I tend to go to almost 24hrs before going to bed.... There's a MIL spec multipole connector at the rear that can be used to hook the clock up to some external device (like a 4hr shift timer)...perhaps useful to rig it up to a bloody big alarm bell to wake me up in the mornings! Back to the car - next job is to order a selection of 76mm ally tubing so I can start fabricating the inlet tract to the turbo. It's times like this I really wish I had my own TIG setup, so I could at least tack the sections into place rather than have to have 3 hands to hold everything....maybe the next gadget on the list... |
Spenny, that looks amazing :cool: Congrats !
Quote:
|
Quote:
Slowly but surely.... |
This evenings progress....
In preparation for buying a selection of aluminium pipes, I decided to mock some up out of cereal packets. Time to crack open the compass set, the protractor and with some careful cutting, made a few of each of the angles I can get hold of easily from a seller on eBay (15º, 45º, 60º and 90º). http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...AEC2996AE2.jpg Will have a go tomorrow to see which combination of items I need to order. I also received this in this mornings post, from a fellow Pelicanite. His company is Car-bone, think that's also his username, but he has a thread over in the 911 Technical forum. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...EFD275A861.jpg The two decals on my slam panel are a bit tired looking, cracked corners, etc. I also have a Shell Lubricants one on the other side. I'm sure that it was supposed to be on the airbox, and mine is all rucked, dirty and creased. Looks like somebody's restuck it. I have no allegiance to Shell and am using Joe Gibbs anyway, plus I quite like the geek factor of this pair ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...869898389E.jpg Of course, not period correct, but it's useful and relevant information nonetheless. They're nice quality; not the same rigid thick tin material of the originals, but they should look a lot better than what's there already, once stuck on the panel. |
Time for a check-in....
A pretty productive weekend, tinkering and getting lots of odd jobs underway. I've now received both Russian clocks - they're ticking away merrily in the lounge at the moment...loudly....but they keep very good time; the silo clock, with only a partial wind, was spot on to the minute and went for over 3 days (the MIG-29 clock was only wound a couple of turns, so lasted about a day-and-a-half) I stripped the front of the MIG clock, chemically stripped the black paint off of the bezel and re-sprayed with acid etch and satin black. A full clean of the glass, locking spring and 2x adjustment and winding knobs, and it's looking very nice. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...21703D632B.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7F768D91A4.jpg Whilst the bezel was removed, I traced the outline to then enable me to make a trimmed bracket/housing for it to mount into. Not sure which material to make it from yet; MDF a-la car hi-fi installs keeps it easy; it'll then be trimmed with padding foam to match the knee roll, then leather on top of that. Anyway, that's some way off yet. Nice knowing that I've got a completely discreet project to do at some point, which doesn't require any electrical work or integration with other parts of the car! Some time spent aligning the intercooler has resulted in the engine lid clearing the front tank - it's certainly a big ol' beast! The thing fills the aperture in the wing, but despite that, it's still very easy to get hands in behind and to the side of the IC with the lid opened, so I was surprised how accessible various components of the engine bay still are. Removal is simplicity itself, it really is a 30sec task to just undo the front bolt and the 2x Wiggins clamps. Next job was to re-fit the heat shields above the turbo. If you remember, I'm attaching them using M5 fixings through the tinware above it, but in order to prevent the fixings "top-side" from melting the powder-coated surface, I've made some penny washer from a sheet of thick fibrous gasket material I have (the nylocs will be swapped to spring washers and plain nuts when I get around to going to the hardware store) ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...32F7028FC1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E622B18904.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9EBC692BA1.jpg Next job will be to make some small metal p-clips to retain the exhaust back pressure sensor feed pipes above the silencer. The exhaust silencer is now back on, along with tail-pipes. Now, one thing I can foresee is going to need some attention is the amount of protrusion each tail pipe has, relative to the bumper. I guess with 1-2º of rotation on the turbo flange when it was welded to the secondaries (and let's face it, it was eyeballed, as that's all that could be done.....), it's thrown the alignment of the silencer a little....meaning that the LH pipe looks as though it'll protrude more than the RH one...but it's too early to tell yet, I need to get the bumper back on and see how far out it is. Next job was to fit the heating pipework, so that I can work out how much space I have for routing the oil return pipe between the tank and the engine. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F784F80B1D.jpg The 135º -18AN fitting *just about* clears the heating shroud around the primaries ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0D8AD17B9E.jpg I've got plenty of hose length to play with, so have kept the routing very similar to the original (i.e. backwards towards rear of wheel arch). The length of hose will be sleeved in the same heat-resistant material as you can see I've used for the wastegate hoses. The oil's unlikely to dissipate any heat along that run, but it certainly could absorb it from the oil pipework and the proximity to various parts of the exhaust system. On balance I think it's worthwhile. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...305AED88A7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F515D40009.jpg Another option would've been to route the line forwards, crossing over to the LHS of the car under the bell housing. This would be a shorter pipe run, but potentially interfered with the removal/refitting of the oil filter. It also looked to be a little bit of a fight wrestling the hose into and around the various items that are in the way. When it came to making the hoses, unfortunately I don't have a 38mm OE spanner to hold the body of the coupling. I managed to fit the 45º fitting anyway by clamping it carefully in the vice and using a 36mm spanner on the other half. Mega torque required to do that thing up (oiled threads of course), so have now ordered a pair of nylon vice jaws to hold it a little better, as I still need to cut the hose and fit the 135º item. The cardboard mockups of the 3" inlet tract have proven invaluable. With the IC in place, a clear path through to the back of the engine bay was sought....It's going to be VERY tight, but I think I can do it without the need to tweak the pipes. The shopping list is:
All of the bends have 150mm tails, are 76mm OD and have 1.6mm wall thickness....bang-on £100 via a seller on eBay Remembering back to when I was making the cold charge pipe and the hot-side pipes for the IC, it was a right pain trying to hold the pipe whilst cutting, especially for any subtle angle changes. I didn't have the lathe back then, but now I have, I've also ordered a billet of 25mm thick aluminium and will bore out a 76mm hole using the 4-jaw. A cut down the middle and I'll have myself a pipe clamp for the big vice. So, it was a little bit of an eBay spend late last night..... |
Some of the shopping list items arrived today....
The nylon jaws for holding the fluid couplings looked nice enough....but they turned out to be absolutely sodding useless, despite them supposedly being suitable for use with larger fittings than the -18AN I'm using. I knew I should've gone for the aluminium ones that Think Automotive sell..."buy cheap, buy twice" ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...52FCB9CAC7.jpg ...and that wasn't even done up that tight; I tightened reasonably tight to start with and heard a crack, backed it off a little but could see it wriggling under the load, then it let go completely. Grrr. So, hose now cut to length and partially assembled: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F5375CF50E.jpg However, the billet of ally got here safely. So, time to mount it into the 4-jaw and get boring.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...724E728561.jpg There's about 0.5 - 0.9mm left to bore, but want to mic the actual tubing when it arrives. It appears that it's en-route...well...most of it, according to the eBay dispatch notices. Looks like the straight section didn't get shipped, but there should be plenty to be getting on with, with just getting the swan-neck arrangement made to clear the engine mount area. |
Looking awesome Spencer! I wish I had you patience, time, space and most importantly skills! Always enjoy reading your updates and seeing what you have been up to.
How is it looking for dynoing? Will this thing hit the roads this summer? Cheers, Fred |
Hey Fred!
Thanks for the kind words - the ++ feedback does motivate, believe me! Hoping it will be on the road for the summer, yes....I was aiming for Le Mans, i.e., well-and-truly shaken down by the time we need to make the journey.....***but*** I think that may be ambitious. Dyno is all booked for the w/c 13th April, I booked the van rental yesterday (I get to play WVM for a week and tailgate everyone). (joking) After that, I have the rest of that week as holiday to get the lump back in the car, however, I want to install a proper extinguisher system whilst I have the interior in pieces. Don't want to be pulling it apart for a 3rd time later on. The system I'm looking at is going to cost a few £££ (Lifeline Zero360, possibly with the remote discharge unit, as this makes it a really compact unit to hide away) So, simple answer is...."maybe". I've beaten myself up enough over the last 4yrs about progress, I'm going to relax into it now...got the other toy to play with in the summer. Cheers S |
|
....Lucy would love it......
Me, I don't bat for that team. ;) Weapon-black or discrete grey for me Did you get email the other week? |
Time for another post weekend update.
It all started ok yesterday morning, then went a bit pants, but finished pretty satisfactorily tonight. So, a simple job to start, make up some custom stainless p-clips to hold the RHS exhaust back pressure sender pipes onto the rear tinware. Pretty simple, just fiddly but yet another instance where I was very glad to have bought the sheet metal punch last year. The number of times I've used it, unbelievable. And a lot nicer hole than drilling with stainless. The way I bent the EGBP pipework, I wanted it to run in free air but also it needed to sit away from the sheet metal so that the -3AN fitting onto the flexi pipe clears and doesn't vibrate against the tinware. Used a drill bit in the lathe chuck to form the "p"...easy. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...EDC079C803.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...75B918B66E.jpg Next job was to start mocking up a dummy air filter. I'd spoken to Andy @ ITG a few weeks ago and got the conversation started with regards to what they could make for me; basically, anything goes. So, now the engine's in situ, it was time to start see what clearance I have.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1CAC921EAE.jpg ....then speak to Andy again for his thoughts. Very helpful guy, and after 15mins on the phone and a dozen or so photos later I had a few ideas. Long story short;
Anyway, rather than waste time, it was time to call it a night in the garage, plant myself in front of the TV and watch the Sebring 12hrs whilst building a new spreadsheet. If in doubt, put it in a spreadsheet.....like I don't get enough practice with that in the day job.... What I wanted to do was try and pin down the likely supported hp for each size, working out the surface area and %-age difference relative to each other. In the pic below, the bottom line is an off-the-shelf filter, supporting (conservatively, apparently) 600hp. Trouble is, it's just too big in diameter, and I can cater for 300mm long rather than 220mm. Surprising how just making it an oval, even with a narrow diameter, can increase the surface area and get to within a few % of the JC60/149. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2022.51.07.png So, not a complete evening off, despite not being in the garage. The eventual winner was the 125x190; still tight, and to be honest, I'm having second thoughts about maybe downsizing. We'll see what Andy says, but this is what the mockup looks like: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D1009166B6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9AAF6DAA42.jpg ...you tend to eat a lot of cereal with these projects... Next job, the one I've been dreading....start making the inlet tract. The clamps I made the other day work a treat, makes life a lot easier to cut them (not as easy as having a bandsaw, but hey...) After HOURS of trying/replacing/altering/swearing (a lot)....I got the hardest bend sorted - the one that enters the turbo inlet through the rear tinware. I won't kid you, it's really tight, and needed the corrugated cooling shroud exit hose to be crushed a little to allow the 76mm pipe to protrude. When I mocked this up using card templates, the plan was for 2x 60º bends to be chopped and welded to make a open "S" bend. First complication, the company I bought the ally pipes from sent me 2 x 60º bends, but 70mm not 76mm. They overnighted replacements out to me, but only had 1x 60º in stock until mid April. Dammit. As it happens, the bend that actually worked the best was a 15º one! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...97F11D5D77.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CFE199BA40.jpg My Brother then ably assisted with the 3rd and 4th hands necessary to hold everything in place whilst measurements were taken. After only an hour, we ended up with the following. Duct tape...best tool in the toolbox... (still wish I had a TIG welder to tack it though...) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5119254A7C.jpg Pretty pleased with the efforts; the duct rises high enough to clear most of the sensors on the black anodized bracket. The two that are a little close are the fuel and oil pressure senders, which I'm going to move backwards on the bracket (i.e. rightwards), then re-use that tapped hole to mount a bracket that will be welded onto the duct, in order to hold it. I'll also try and find somewhere similar at the back of the pipework near the filter. It also clears the engine lid hinges; some eyeballing revealed that the top of the fuel filter was approximately the max height in order to clear. Using this as the max, the position of the pipework relative to the air filter is also where I want it. Note to self - must NOT forget to weld in the -8AN fitting to the duct, for the vent from the turbo oil catch tank. The 4x fuses that normally install on the outside of the fuse/relay board on the LH wing, will have to have a new home, absolutely no chance of them fitting where they once did, nor will the plastic cover (with bulge to cover the fuses). So, a quick bit of ally fabrication, and a simple cover will be made. I'm planning on getting the duct powder coated; pity not to anodise it to match the other pipework, but it's going to be a wrestle to install and remove, so I imagine will look very tatty, very quickly. I may even copy what one of the guys with his 600hp Exige has done, and cover them with heat reflective material....although, in his situation, the whole engine bay is getting the heat from his exhaust system, not the same situation for us. |
In other news....
I'm also investigating how to re-route the AC lines. This was always going to be the case, but impossible to try and deduce until the engine is back in. Stock lines: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6059303300.jpg ....Chris has kindly forwarded me a couple of pics and ideas. I now need to see which combination of parts I could use. The stock lines ware going to run under the IC; if I change them to remove the ridiculous 160º bend, then it only reduces the amount of space available for the air filter: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BEFD160DE8.jpg The last section of rubber hose may have to be replaced, or at least chopped... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...95A3C34B39.jpg ....then re-terminated with some right angle fittings, like these ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2013.14.05.png Which will then screw onto something like these: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2013.10.07.png ...or possibly another option would be to see if there's a difference Denso manifold that can bolt onto the side of the compressor.....dunno yet, all TBD. |
Time for an update...not too much to report of late, been very busy at work.
So, we're now only 10 days away from being on the dyno and a public holiday 4-day weekend here in the UK. Andy @ ITG is now getting on with making the custom air filter for me; not going to be cheap, but then, custom work never is....This will be arriving with me in good time for the dyno session, and with the correct intake system now made, I feel a lot more comfortable that we'll be mapping against the actual intake rather than a hastily mocked-up temporary pipe. Over the lunch break I managed to get over to Pete the welder, where he and Lewis could tack the intake pipework into place. A quick jaunt back home to trial fit it, then back to fully weld it, and we now have a completed tract: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...F000DA9207.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...935CF186B4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...53C563A131.jpg And in place in the engine bay (fixing bracket was only tacked at this point) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C286E895B8.jpg Does anyone have a view whether the clearance in this pic is too little? Bear in mind that I'm now using 964RS engine mounts along with TurboKrafts stiffer gearbox tail mount, so there *should* be minimal movement...but if so, then I may need to relieve this small area. Reluctant, as I don't want to impede airflow unnecessarily. I've also got to weld on the -8AN fitting for the turbo oil catch tank breather. ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9EF640D370.jpg At the moment I just have the one mounting plate that bridges across to the sensor bracket assembly. I have made another secondary bracket that attaches to the outboard end of the 90º pipe, about 150-180mm away from where the filter will connect....however....this tract pipe is a really fiddly thing to get into place as it is - if I go and weld on another 150mm long bracket, it's certainly not going to help the situation. The plan is to use this pipe as-is on the dyno, where I'll be filming the engine anyway. If it looks stable enough then great. If not, then I'll have to go with Plan B, either conceding that this pipe will have to be in two halves and cutting it somewhere convenient, or maybe re-thinking the second bracket design; possibly just a short bracket welded onto the tract, onto which an extension can be bolted and aligned with the target mount point on the engine. We'll see. In addition to the fabricating work, I've also been in contact with Charlie at Griffiths (a fellow Pelicanite, "Kuehl") regarding the A/C part of the project. They can indeed supply a different manifold for the Nippon Denso pump, with the feed and return pipework connecting from the back of the pump instead of on top of the RH side. Some different fittings will be needed, but he can also supply the latest barrier hosing for the flexi sections. I confess to not even being aware that there were new types of hosing for A/C lines; but apparently, the old style rubber was porous, so a good potential upgrade to be had. In order to assist with trial fitting the intake tract, I finally got around to removing the old lines with the daft 160º bends. So long as the I can, I plan on running new lines underneath where the air filter will be sitting and behind the engine, instead of underneath the intercooler. I can predict that this will involve raising and lowering the engine a number of times to make up the new pipes/hoses! More updates over the weekend..... |
Perfect ! ;-)
|
Quote:
|
Ok, some updates for this weekends progress…
A few weeks ago, I managed to source a very lightly used rear engine lid latch mechanism; mine had suffered from the weather, and it didn’t look to be a 5 minute job to strip it down and get it replated (the 2x tubes that lock each half together are swaged, plus, trying to reassemble tensioned springs is the stuff of pure annoyance IME). Bluntly, the cost of buying the item from the US far outweighed the time spent messing about on mine. Old unit vs “new”…. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6F09EE1C2E.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...AC9B511974.jpg First job for yesterday was to get together a few jobs for welding - a couple of things on the intake tract that I forgot, plus a re-working of the front intercooler mount as well as welding some lifting loops that I’m now using for hoisting the engine…more of which in a moment. So, after some thinking about whether a second mount on the pipework was needed, I decided it was. Time to chop up the first attempt at a bracket that I made (didn’t like it anyway…plus Pete picked-up on the rubbish radius that I hastily added, lol), and that’s now positioned just after the 90º bend, filter side: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...79C2567264.jpg Also, I completely forgot to add the -8AN boss to couple the breather from the turbos oil drain tank. This is nicely hidden underneath the pipework, and will use a 90º -8AN fitting to couple it to the hose. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FF5DB517D2.jpg The re-worked intercooler mount; this was needed because the final positioning of the IC is just a little further back than the slots on the bracket will allow. I reworked the stock slots a few weeks ago, but the front-most one ended up being an open ended slot, and when fixed in position was only just grabbed by the nut/washer. So, a quick chop of that corner, and a new fillet piece made, chamfered and welded: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BC86847F08.jpg After the dyno, I’ll either get this re-plated or I may well just fabricate a new one in ally and get it anodised, with a slight re-orientation of the boost control valve. However, this will be more than sufficient for the dyno work next week. Yesterday afternoon saw me getting the engine back out again. All clearance work complete (apart from AC lines, but that’s post-dyno anyway) so it’s time to start prepping it for mapping. Removal was a pig of a job; I was saying to a mate last night that I think I got a little complacent with how smoothly the re-installation went (with my Dad) a few weeks ago, and had assumed that as this was a dry-run install it should drop out very easily….but anyway, no damage was done apart from to the STUPID clutch slave cylinder hydraulic pipe. Why did they think it was a good idea to mount it under the gearbox instead of looping it over the top (but still keeping it lower than the slave cylinder)??!!???….Anyway, this was looking very manky anyway, so I had debated whether to replace it with -3AN braided line, like Rob has done with his resto on Rennlist…decision now made. Today’s work has been to strike off those To-Do list jobs on the whiteboard, which can only be done with the engine back out. I’ve now made the second part of the rear inlet tract support bracket. My attempt at being double-jointed in order to markup the position of the tag on the pipe whilst in the car, looks to have been slightly off….meaning it wasn’t exactly parallel with the bracket I originally wanted to mount it from (perpendicular to the ground)…so, the option of using some ally 90º stock wasn’t available, it’d mean another trip over to Petes during the week to fab something up. Instead, I decided to make it out of mild steel, and it’ll be gold passivate plated to match the other items on the engine. Very pleased with how it’s come out, no need for any slotting of mount holes, everything lines up like a charm, re-using one of the IC mount plate fixings: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DB49921830.jpg I’ll get Pete to weld on an M6 nut to the bracket for fixing to the pipework, but again, a nyloc will be fine for next week. A quick re-shape of the middle mount to keep it more like the IC pylon mounts, and slight relocation of the oil and fuel pressure senders: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...19159BD54E.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2E7F11E91D.jpg Talking of Pete, he came over on his latest new toy earlier, brand new Ducati Panagali 1199 Superleggera…..my jaw literally fell, and it’s not often that happens. Of course I knew he had it, but I’d not seen it until today; the pics don’t come close to conveying just how bright the red paintwork is….think 1980’s TAG McLaren Honda’s….this thing is just uber, dripping in carbon, magnesium, titanium and “one off” type hardware. I think it’s now done about 200-300 miles. Stunning. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6B3AE3D4AA.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BB6F0A15F1.jpg |
Finally, on recommendation from Chris, I'm now triangulating the lifting bar for the engine, using the factory rear mount near the breather chimney, plus using the 2x engine mount pickups instead of the handle-sized hole in the middle of the engine bar. A couple of threaded loops and load spreading plates are perfect, but the loops weren't welded shut, only bent around. So, Pete quickly buzzed them to prevent any unbending:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...A5FA0B5F9A.jpg And that's about it for this evening.... |
Brief update this evening....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...49EA012C21.jpg I also asked about inline filters, specifically to install into the oil return between the scavenge pump and the main oil tank, just to catch any coking or, God-forbid, any foreign objects from the turbo itself, should it decided to have a "moment". These are available in -4, -6 and -8 sizes, so after the dyno session, I'll remove the pipe/hose and get crimped fittings added into the new section of hose that they crimped onto the rigid section last year....another £40 safeguard which I know a lot of the guys over in the 930 Turbo forum have applied. |
Evening gang.
Ok, minor update time...and a slight U-turn with the previous post. Chris and I have been chatting overnight about the intake system, with one item being the need for a check valve on the drain tank breather. In short, it's overkill and not needed;
So, I'll return this back to Think Automotive next time I'm passing. Instead, Tino @ Think sent me out an in-line Mocal filter which I've plumbed into the return line from the drain tank to the auxiliary pump. Again, some sage advice from Chris. Rather than place it in the return line from pump > tank which would protect the tank from any shrapnel from a failed pump, it's better to protect the pump from any coked oil or a failed turbo. Apparently this is more likely, the pumps generally being extremely robust*. So a filter with a 120um gauze and -8 fittings is now sitting inline with the return line that runs along the 1-2-3 valve cover. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6BD72129C8.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E906073D10.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E65A37D6FC.jpg These units are tiny, very simple and can be opened and cleaned very easily. A quick spacer "shim" knocked up this afternoon to sit between the engine mount bar and the engine itself. Mount bar deliberately reversed in order to locate the engine in the bay where I need it to be. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...4ED9C31641.jpg M5 penny washers now installed on the heat shield fixings, sandwiching the fibrous washers I made a few weeks ago. Nylocs swapped for spring washers and plain nuts, as intended. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...4DBC33BB16.jpg Still a couple of jobs left on the To Do list, then it's time for a top-to-bottom nut and bolt check before loading the engine into the van. [*insert "Commentators Curse" here] |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:44 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website