Ok, a little bit of progress for the last few days.

I received a message on Wednesday evening from Simon @ Sileck saying that my loom was finished! As it happens, I've had a few days vacation form work this week, so yesterday morning I dshed across to the other side of the county to go and collect it. One or two finishing jobs to do though, specifically to ensure that the final orientation of the 2 x MIL plugs are correct with regards to loom direction. Need to make sure that the harness doesn't foul anything in the vicinity, so the easiest way to do that?....Take the whole intake manifold assembly along, which I removed from the engine as a whole unit a couple of years ago...perfect...almost well-planned!

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As mentioned previously, we're going to be running phase and anti-phase boost control. To facilitate that, a second boost controller valve is needed. We had enough spare pins in the original MIL connector to accommodate thus....

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Next, I had a go in the evening with trying to remove the very tired looking exhaust studs; if ever there's a time to attempt to get them out, now is most certainly it. I had visited Pete-the-welder and Lewis earlier in the afternoon, to give them a heads-up that I may need their help on Sod-Around-Saturday. And I will. The plumbing gas torch I used with great success many years ago to remove the head studs, didn't get enough heat into the area, and the first one sheared off flush with the head. Bugger. That'll be the first candidate to get welded to an M8 nut, then we'll probably follow that method for the remaining studs. It looks as though a few have snapped off throughout the engines life; I've replaced one (on #2) when I first bought the car, but there are 3 others which have been Timeserted.

Todays work was to try and get the con rods onto the crank. I got as far as forensically cleaning the crank journals with a 3rd clean of the rods and bearing shells.

I'll be using my stretch gauge to tighten the fasteners; it's slim enough that with some crank rotation I can get it in place through the case spigots. So, in advance of doing that, I wanted to record the free length of each bolt and record for future reference, should I need to determine whether a fastener has gone past its elastic limit....

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All laid out, ready to go....

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...however, some ambiguity in Carrillos paperwork and website got me scratching my head as to the correct stretch dimension required for the particular fasteners I have with these rods.

My bolt heads are marked with S6-N-076, but their documentation describes specs for:

"S6" << possible
"S6-x-xxx-PS" << Definitely a likely candidate
"S6-A-xxx-PS" << Probably not

Now common sense says that the latter p/n with "A" doesn't apply, but which of the other 2? What does that PS suffix mean?

After a quick call with Carrillo themselves, for anyone also wanting to know this, the "S6" line is the one to follow....79Nm/58lbft or 0.130 > 0.180mm of stretch. The PS suffix means Pro Stock.

So, tomorrows job is to get those wretched exhaust studs out, then maybe I can get the rods installed in the evening

Oh man, that harness is sweet! Love me some Autosports and Raychem. Does your harness builder know that RaceGrade makes some sweet billet back shells for those ECU connectors? Allows you to seal them and put a proper boot on them...

http://www.milspecwiring.com/RaceGrade-Backshell-Black-34P_p_947.html

They make them for both the 34 and 26 way connectors in either black or red anodizing.

Excellent link! Thanks Jayson, I'll forward onto him and probably look to buy a set. (No, I'm not sure he is aware of them)

Cheers,
Spencer.

When is this assembly going into orbit? :)

Pfft! Lord knows mate. Another set-back yesterday, these blessed exhaust studs proved to be a right sod-of-a-job. Only one came out successfully, using oxy-acetylene heat (but carefully and not too much) around the exhaust port, and immediately after welding an M10 nut onto the stud (we tried M8's, hopeless). We called it quits after trying 4, some of which 3-4 times and at £45/hr it wasn't too long before a false economy versus drilling them out. If we had of gradually gotten somewhere, and with the right technique they were gradually coming out, then I would've persevered. But frankly, I didn't want to risk putting too much heat into them and having a head warp issue.

So, time to carefully drill the remaining 7 out. In some ways, I really wish I'd have left well alone...but...neither do I want the hassle of of a sheared stud once the engine was back into the car. Some of those studs looked really crummy.

I've got a VERY heavy duty and rigid pillar drill, plenty of speed adjustability, plenty of torque and a cast iron rotatable table to mount them on with sliding T bolts. There should be no reason why, with some patient and careful mounting, we can't drill them out once they're prepared accordingly for marking-out.

We'll see. Bloody car. :mad:

Footnote - we discussed trying to remove the untouched (read, un-sheared) studs out by putting those heads into my oven. The oven has an auto-clean mode, which if i remember correctly, is around 300ºC - probably enough to melt the Loctite....at least this way the whole head is being heated evenly and is safer than just waving an oxy-acetylene torch at it (where we don't know what temperature we're getting it up to).

If anyone's tried this, please let me know before I potentially waste more time.

Hello Spencer,

A solution has to try Spencer, maybe the thermal décapeur. :)

A thermal decapeur? (sorry mate, even Google Translate isn't helping me with that one! :p) ...have you got a picture of such a tool?

Email ! ;-)

Looking on Loctites website, the Tech Info for Loctite 270 describe that the disassembly needs heat of 250ºC. Looking at the retention strength graph, @200ºC the retention strength drops to <50% vs 22ºC.

LOL! I got worried there....Google translation = "Stripper" :eek: ...actually quite a good literal translation, being a hot-air paint stripping gun :D

Yup, good idea....my only concern is that I'm applying local heat to the exhaust area. Of course, the engine gets far hotter than this, but the head would be far more evenly heated when in-service.

However...maybe my oven to heat the whole head, then the heat gun to keep applying the heat whilst attempting to remove the studs? Hmmm...a good way to overcome heat loss whilst transferring the heads from my kitchen to the workshop.

I have already used a thermal décapeur for this kind(genre) of problem successfully. You should not hesitate to wait that that warms for a long time so that the loctite softens. :)

A "thermal décapeur" is a heat gun, for those of you scoring at home. But it sounds cooler.

Spencer, if you want to get the studs out, I would use a torch to melt the loctite, then a pair of hex nuts on the stud with the head held in a padded vise.

Pity you have do to this-- is there any necking down of the studs, like they have been over-torqued? Of course the last thing you want to do is break one once the engine is assembled.

Hi John,

Yup, we had an oxy-acetylene torch on it at the weekend....the studs were cherry red from welding the nuts onto them (multiple times), so that should've been more than enough to soften any Loctite...but no dice.

We'll try the double nut method again, but I've also have a proper stud extractor "chuck", essentially doing the same as the double nuts. Again, nowt doing.

Well, a few of them look newer than others, some studs even came out attached to the copper crush nuts when removing the headers (the ones that have previously been Timesert'd). But yes, most of them are very corroded on the threads, and wonky and thin, just like they've been cranked down very hard indeed. I dare not risk leaving them. Do it once, do it properly.

My best mate's coming down here on Friday afternoon; a superb maintenance engineer and has been for many years on industrial food and pharma manufacturing systems. Very used to dealing with recalcitrant hardware, probably extracted more studs than I've had hot dinners. We're preparing for the worst, armed with dozens of top grade drill bits, milling cutters, centre drills. I'm currently rigging the (stupidly heavy) pillar drill up so that we can mount the heads on the compound slide vertically on the table. Helping me is a nice digital spirit level that measures to 0.1º (it's actually part of my camber gauge kit but can work separately as a unit), so everything will be square to the drill head.

Some accurate marking-out and a cool head, we'll have them out in time for a bloody good curry and a beer down the Indian on Friday night.

Try heating the studs/head again with a torch and then melting paraffin on them. It gets wicked into the threads and sometimes does the trick.

Thanks for the tip boosted, I'll go to the hardware store and see if they have bars of paraffin so we have another method on standby.

Some quick snaps from the rigging-up of the pillar drill for Fridays action.

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(I did actually get the pillar and table aligned perfectly after taking this pic ;) )

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Annoyingly, the overall height of the compound slide from the deck of the rotated table, means that I can't get the uppermost studs in line with the chuck....however, having just typed this, and with fresh braincells, I reckon I could reverse mount the heads onto the compound slide bed with some parallels to allow the cam carrier studs to not interfere...hmm I'll try that this evening.

I also treated myself to buying a new garage gadget. Yes, I did learn how to grind drill bits when I was an apprentice, and yes, I can still grind to a reasonable (i.e., passable) standard...but frankly, this comes under the "can't be arsed" category of ways to spend minutes of ones lifespan.

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As you do, I quickly reached for the mankiest set of drills in the toolbox and gave it a go. After learning the process for the first bit, every subsequent drill bit is a doddle, very very quick to setup in the holder and grind. This model also grinds a split point if required, as well as 118º and 135º angles. Very nicely made, feels very sturdy (for a plastic device). The only criticism I would give it was something I read in the Amazon reviews, insomuch that the grinding wheel is a little too coarse, leaving a slightly untidy look to the newly ground faces. I'm sure a less coarse wheel is available, which I'll order and swap over.

Those drill docs do a great job, once you get the hang of it, although I don't think it will help the 7/16 I snapped off last week. Try a little cutting oil on the wheel.

Yup, will do!

Yeah, you only get 2-3mm of useful length on a drill bit to grind with, after that the web and therefore the chisel width gets too wide. Splitting the point can help I guess.

Just a very quick update this evening....

Best mate Matt came down from Herts to my neck o'the woods exactly as planned. Nothing like coming well prepared, the boot of his 5-series estate was full of tooling; cutters, drills, you name it..."just in case"

Of course it's always good to catch up face to face, so we had a great afternoon nattering and cracking on with the job in hand.

Three of heads had 4 studs left to extract, untouched and full-length. So, turn the kitchen oven up to self-clean temps and let the heads gradually come up to temp while we try drilling a few of the studs that have sheared off flush with the other heads.

Two heads had studs that were the lower position (i.e., cylinder side of the head not cam side) were mounted in the compound slide, a couple of sliding T studs holding them very securely. Some accurate marking up, centre punching and alignment was all straightforward. A proper centre drill was used to ensure no deflection from the rough remaining surface of the snapped stud.

You simply cannot beat having brand new, proper quality drill bits. In this case Gurhring branded jobber drills and adequate supply of Rocol RTD cutting lubricant. The 3.5mm pilot went through like a hot knife through butter....perfect, and dead central. A 6.8mm bit followed very easily and we could see the roots of the M8 thread. Some bits were picked out using a dental pick, but a run through with an M8 tap has cleaned it up beautifully.....one down...

The second one was done the same way before extracting the heads from the oven....and bloody hell they were hot, uncomfortably hot whilst running from the kitchen to the workshop wearing welding gauntlets!

However....success! The first one came out using the stud extractor. The second sheared, but a double-nut attempt got that out. Unfortunately, the 3rd and 4th both sheared; one flush with the head, the other 10mm above (it was a top stud, under that overhanging shelf of the head fins, couldn't get the extractor low enough).

By this time, we had decided that using the compound slide was impossible for the uppermost studs, so we ended up mounting them directly to the drill table. After setting one up, we used a piece of 1" square angle-iron to clamp to the table and act as a locator for the other heads...not perfect each time, but certainly ball-park requiring only a tap or two to align. Basically, they all went swimmingly well, absolutely no drama at all....just a lot of very careful, unrushed marking out and alignment. In fact, one was so accurate it snagged the remaining steel thread and ejected it as swarf, leaving a perfect unblemished thread, no tapping needed.

And then we had a curry. A bloody big curry. And a beer. Maybe my luck is finally changing?....

Well, my 4-day weekend is about to come to a close, but what a productive time it's been. Feeling quite happy with the progress.

Since the update on Friday evening, a number of jobs have now been ticked...

The heads were thoroughly scrubbed for their final clean before re-assembly of the valve gear:

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The new valve stem oil seals arrived a few days ago from my OPC, all good...993 items for the thinner stemmed Schrick valves.

By way of a comparison, these 2 pics show the abortion of an install that the "he who shall remain nameless" clown did when building the heads some years ago, in Build#1....glad I took the time to remove and replace them. Honestly, how can you screw this up? With a decent tool, there's no reason to make a complete Horlocks of it like this>>

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Anyway....Nice easy job, just had to be careful to use my right arm for the valve spring compressor - having the levers kick open on that with my left arm (a lot better but not 100% repaired yet!) would've been, erm, painful to say the least.

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The new rods are now on the crank. Usefully, the stretch gauge I've got is narrow enough to allow me to use it through the cylinder spigots.

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My starting point for each fastener was the trusty torque wrench set to 79Nm. Upon checking each fastener with the stretch gauge, the wrench looks to be spot-on, with a stretch of 0.006" (specification is between 0.005 > 0.007")

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Next, the final clean-up of the cylinders and pistons, and then the brutal job of trying to install the blessed wrist pin circlips. My God, the wire thickness for those buggers makes them super tough to even try and squash closed by hand. Crazy strong, and I can think of half a dozen design improvements that could make life a LOT easier for fitting. But, after a little YouTube'ing to see if anyone had any tricks-n-tips, I had another go (I'd used up my daily allowance of swear words by this point, I was verbally exhausted). Success this time, although it just can't be done without a little scratching of the lovely moly coating [OCD goes into overdrive].

And a short while later, all three of the right hand bank are on....

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Tinware on (above photo, for the eagle eyed, has them incorrectly installed, I know....I changed immediately after taking this pic), and then time to fit the Ni-Resist rings into the heads, and the heads onto the cylinders....but only after spending an hour cleaning all the ARP fasteners (OCD again)

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FINALLY, after 2 years of the crankcase sitting on the engine cradle, it's starting to look a little more like an engine again. Tomorrows job is to do 1-2-3 cylinders/heads, then get the cam carriers onto both banks.

Great work Spencer!

Pay all the same attention to your arm. ;-)

Glad to see her going back together, Spencer!

Thanks guys!...Yep, it'll be back together before you know it. Bizarrely, I'm quite looking forward to the cam timing setting, I get to use my new digital DTI's and the Z-blocks!

Hello Spencer, are you going to settle(adjust) your cams in 1.26mm? :)

Hi Pat, yes, from memory that's what I set them to last time, so I plan to set it the same this time.

SmileWavy;)

Got the 1-2-3 pistons and cylinders installed on Wednesday evening - I'm getting the installation of these wrist pin circlips off to a fine art now! (but it's still a job I have no desire to repeat).

Not a big evening in the workshop tonight, just snuck an hour out there...but a very useful and productive hour nonetheless.

Cam carrier for 1-2-3 was cleaned in the tank the other night, then rinsed with brake cleaner tonight. The plan was to install it dry, no sealant or oil return tubes, in order to align the cylinder heads before torquing them down, and to also check that there's no binding of the camshaft.

Of course, a steel straight edge was used to span the 3 heads and make sure they're all level (they were), so no reason why the cam should bind...but just making sure.

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All looking great, no binding. The oil return tubes were also cleaned in the tank, rinsed and air dried, then fitted with the new Wrightwood O-rings in readiness for the cam carrier fitting "proper" with Threebond (it worked brilliantly the first time, so no reason to change. A new tube arrived the other day, old tube had gone-off and separated)

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It's starting to look a lot more like an engine again now! The amount of space around the house and my office that is now being relinquished is very nice as well...I'm getting an engine and a bigger house, both at the same time!

Hi when you get it all finished if you want to run and map it in the test cell before re fitting to car drop me a line i am just carrying out two single turbo conversion and a twin all to go to Germany i have to say all running COP and MoTeC

Ok thanks Neil, I'll certainly bear that in mind.

Morning folks, time for a long-overdue update.

Lots of progress, really am pleased with how it's all coming together (anyone following me on Instagram will have seen a lot of the progress already)

Heads torqued down with the cam carriers dry-fitted. Then time to build the carrier assembly with oil return tubes installed, and Threebond 1184 to seal between the housing and the heads. No drama there.

Knock sensor bridges then fitted - nice to see that my machining work on the underside of the heads has paid off, perfect alignment on both sides and ready for the sensors to be mounted.

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Time to move onto the timing chain housings, now fully cleaned to remove the old Curil-T (jeez that stuff is a pig to clean off, there always seems to be a feint layer of it each time you think you've got it clean). Another dry fit of the housings to check how concentric the camshaft is relative to the thrust plate hole. The RH bank was more concentric, no idea why, but both were fine to use the gasket and with the o-rings installed onto the thrust plates with all 3 holes lining up fine. Again sealed with Threebond 1184.

Next job to re-check how parallel the sprockets are relative to the intermediate shaft. No reason why anything should've changed, and indeed it hadn't, 4 spacer shims on each cam (a 5th spacer would've brought the LH cam a little close to optimum, but without it it's still well within spec). Chain ramps reinstalled, and then I got to play with my new Stomski Racing chain tensioners.

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Last time, I tried using clamps to hold the tensioner arms tight, but it was a pretty poor experience, with them getting knocked, then having to start again, a right PITA...can't beat having the right tools. Speaking of which, I also now got to use my pair of Mitutoyo Digimatic DTI's and PROPER Z-blocks. Again, last time I tried holding an analogue DTI on a magnetic base. It took lots of time to get it spot-on perpendicular to the valve, then the tip would slip off of the valve cap, start again....urghhh....I don't miss that method! The resolution on my analogue DTI was pretty high, so many sweeps of the hand to get the 1.26mm lift measurement...."did I just miscount?...or was I imagining it?....".....start again.

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In the end, using a DTI on each bank, I did the whole timing exercise in comfortably less than 2 hours...AND got it spot-on 1.26mm on each side...no shortcuts or half measures, checked, double and triple checked, Chris was kind enough to mark my homework by watching a video I did of the 720º of rotation (such was my "that was waaay to easy" levels of paranoia!)

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A razor blade held using (said) magnetic base for TDC observation. No idea why, but after many hours of checking TDC dwell, my TDC "Z" mark on the pulley doesn't align with the case parting line.

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Once that's done, remove the Stomski's and substitute with the proper hydraulic tensioners ensuring that the chain never went slack. No problems there either.

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Tuesday morning I started to build up the 4-5-6 bank with the rocker assembly and the TurboKraft rocker locks....

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Valve lash set on the remaining 5 valves on that bank, get the valve covers on, and replace the timing box covers (Curil-T again, it worked well the first time....if it ain't broke...). Fitting the timing box cover to 1-2-3 chain is as far as I got the other day before other activities curtailed play.

Next job is to finish off the 1-2-3 bank rocker arms, cleaning them and replacing the RSR oil seals on the shafts with a new set and carefully inserting to avoid slicing the rubber on the cam housing.

Hi Spencer,
You move forward very well on the reconstruction of your engine, continue like that!
I I preferred to remove the hydraulic carrier straps.
I also installed(settled) the kit TK for the waterproofness of tippers, pay special attention to the order of assembly.
Good luck for the continuation! :)

Hi Pat, cheers mate.

Q: "I preferred to remove the hydraulic carrier straps." - sorry, I'm not sure I understand?

Cheers
S

Sorry Spencer for the translation ... :RÉ



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512683824.jpg
A photo will be more explicit, I preferred to install(settle) carrier strap of mechanical chain(channel) instead of those hydraulics of origin. :)

Ah, I see. I think a lot of the racing guys with the earlier spring tensioners (pre-hydraulic) replace them with fixed tensioners - in fact, the Stomski ones also come with spacers so that they can be permanently installed.

Hi Spencer,

Needs to verify just more regularly the tension of the chain.

Yep, which isn't a 5 minute job!....removing the turbo, the tinware, piping, oil feed to the turbo....nah, I'll stick with the lower maintenance option and keep the hydraulic tensioners!

Yes, you are right, I shall see good in time! :)

Another productive few evenings, albeit sporadic with the odd hour or two here-and-there.

All the valve rockers are now back in, everything thoroughly washed, old RSR seals removed and replaced with a new set.

The TurboKraft rocker shaft locks are all in place, really nicely made items. All valve lashes set using the little tool I bought a few years ago. Really like this gadget, I've checked it numerous times with a feeler gauge, and it's spot on so long as you don't over-tighten the screw/foot too much before you rotate for 0.1mm clearance. Just a case of tightening it a few times to get the feel for how tight is just right, and as long as you can hold the thumbwheel still while tightening the locknut, then you're good.

Valve covers back on loosely for the time being, I need to finish the mounting posts for the CoP units. Timing chain covers also installed, along with the oil supply lines to the cams and tensioners.

The oil filter housing was flushed through and reinstalled with the new Wrightwood seals; easy job, another engine part out of my home office.

Intermediate shaft cover back on, new o-ring and a smear of Threebond 1184.

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The cooling fan is back in place, primarily because the charging loom is still attached and run through the air shroud (I removed them all as a single assembly when I tore the engine down) - I needed to see how much clearance I have for the knock sensors, and whether I need to order them with a flying lead (same as the 964 Carrera part) or whether to buy a pair where the Junior Mini Timer plug attaches directly....leads me on to a question....

Q) Is there any electronic/sensitivity differences between various knock sensors, or are they all the same internally, it's just the packaging that changes? All the ones I've seen on the Bosch website specify a "Type Formula" of KS-1-K. Not sure what that means...

The Googling I’ve done so far is inconclusive as to whether there are sensitivity calibrations that are dependant upon bore size. I suspect this is wrong info, as the Bosch tables that describe each models application cover a variety of models of a manufacturer, as well as engine size.

The sensor on Syvecs' own site describes a frequency range of 1hz-20hz, which is most likely the unit I'll buy....just curious more than anything.

Hi Spencer... great job here... this thread I am sure will be the engine pin-up of many when they are able to build such a great motor...!!
Could you please post pics and name of the valve adj tool u used and liked for its accuracy and ease of use it sounds...
Thx and carry on with the build.. good things await you in the near future with this build...!!))
Thx Bob

Hi Bob!

Many thanks for the kind words, but I very much doubt there'll be any "pin-up" activity, there are far more deserving engine builds out there. If folk can get any help or are able to distill some thoughts on their own projects, then great...it's what it's all about!

The lash tool I'm using is the Kirk one (there's a sizeable thread in this forum somewhere about it, started by the guy who designed/made it)

Available from our host >> Kirk Engines Valve Lash Adjustment Tool for Air, Cooled 911s

ETA: Here you go, the original thread >> Original Kirk Valve Lash Setting Tool Thread