Hello Spencer,
It is good to take the time to make well things, I am absolutely sure your engine will be in peak condition!

Continue like that! ;-)

Pat

I will mate...I will. I never have taken short-cuts, and not about to start now! ;):D

Progress update from last night.

(After replying back to Pat, above, I'm now going to immediately contradict myself)

So, a job I didn't do last time around, was to strip the auxiliary turbo oil scavenge pump on the back of 1/2/3 camshaft. I probably got as far as trying to remove the drive pin from the input shaft, and I wouldn't have had the hydraulic press in the workshop at that point. Smacking it with a hammer and parallel punch = not a good idea. (although I did try to gently tap it out this way, it soon became evident that this was an interference fit)

Onto the press, and some creative ways to hold the pump housing (!). That's great, but it only gets the pin out so-far, and not through the shaft. Next task, grind a Goldilocks punch (not too short to be able to hold it, not too long that it bends). One 75mm M6 caphead bolt and an offhand grinder later....

(Useful tip for anyone doing this....for the last part of the pin extraction I mounted everything in a vice, with an 8mm deep reach socket on the other side of the shaft, where the pin is exiting from to support the shaft itself. Once you've driven the pin out this far, you don't need the force of the hydraulic press to do the final few mm)

(Another useful tip - don't split the pump housing before removing the drive pin; you want to support the gears on both sides to avoid the gear teeth damaging the internal pump cavity walls)

Some gently tapping around the areas of the locating dowels for each pump case half, and you end up with this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1673.jpg

After another few minutes in the cleaning tank.....(albeit with the wrong 3 bolts in this photo, for the eagle-eyed; these are pump housing>cam carrier bolts http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/silly.gif )

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1680.jpg

Some reassembly...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1681.jpg

And then onto making a gasket. Stupidly, I used my 3rd gasket in the kit after I had a change-of-plan last week. When deciding what I was going to use to seal the cam thrust plate with, I was going to use 1184, then changed my mind to using CurilT...but by this point had wrecked the Wrightwood gasket with 1184. Nevermind, I have a sheet of gasket material. And a sheet of A4 paper. And patience.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1682.jpg

What I haven't shown in a pic, is the replacement pump shaft seal. Easy enough, pull the old brown Victor Reinz one (more evidence that, as suspected, somebody had done some level of overhauling of the engine before I owned the car) and replace with the mucky blue coloured Wrightwood seal.

After fitting the tinware to the end of #3 cylinder, along with the TK head temp sensor, the air injection pump housing was then fitted last night, ready to accept the oil pump. However, I need to balance the cam position wheel. This was something that my balancing guy just ran out of time to do a few weeks ago, before I needed to collect all the parts from him. This one should be simple (I'll post pics later), whereby the small wheel has a protruding ca.1" long pickup "bolt". Directly opposite that, I need to drill and tap an M10 hole and fit a grubscrew (or similar), that should have similar mass to that bolt. Once that's done the pump can go back on, with cam position hall-effect sensor re-fitted.

Another great, productive evening last night. Thankfully I'm now returning to the point where I have to tear myself away from working through the night on it; a few months ago, that certainly wasn't the case.

So, last night I finished off the turbo scavenge pump, the air pump drive housing was fitted the previous night, so first order of the evening was to balance the cam position sensor wheel; the ferrous bolt I use to trigger the hall effect sensor, although as skinny as I would like to go, is still a mass that extend beyond the mounting wheel a "decent" amount....not a disaster in terms of balance, but worthy of spending a few minutes to get it balanced. "Marginal Gains" as the very clever Sir David Brailsford often says.

I had drilled and tapped a number of peripheral holes into the mount when I was re-positioning the pickup away from where the crank sensor "dead" area is. The one that is directly opposite from the trigger bolt is where the equal mass needed to be mounted, so a sacrificial M10 bolt was used, and M10 tapped hole machined into the carrier.

Of course, the first trick is to get the M10 "slug" the same mass as the trigger bolt. No word of a lie, this was "as I cut it" from the bolt....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1688.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1689.jpg

Boom! At 0.04g different, that's not bad for a guess, haha! (the term "I'd rather be lucky than clever" seems appropriate!)

And then Threadlocked into the carrier....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1690.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1691.jpg

Next, I needed to make some new caphead bolts to mount the trigger wheel onto the end of the camshaft (the old ones have gone AWOL), with a check to ensure they engaged deep enough to pick up the oil pump drive pin (they do now, after some thicker aluminium washers were fitted).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1692.jpg

And close everything up....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1696.jpg

Power steering pump next. A quick clean in the tank (did I mention Jizer is great at removing Curil-T?...yep, sure I did)....belt fitted, covers on, happy days. More parts vacating my home office.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1694.jpg

Next up, the cooling fan/alternator. Temporarily positioned over the weekend, but no reason why it can't be mounted permanently. V-belt on, pulley clamp bolts tightened, multi-vee belt on, and fan belt warning switch fitted. Easy. In addition, the crank pulley cover is also now on, and the engine mounting bar fitted nice and level.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1695.jpg

Last job for the evening was a cleanup of the crankcase breather chimney...the dreaded ringleader in the oily triangle-of-death. More Curil-T to clean off, then a new gasket from Porsche, and interestingly, it's a lot thicker than the Victor Reinz paper one I fitted last time. Under the torque of the 4x M6 nuts, it does squash out a little. Still used a smear of Curil-T again, just in case!

Chris did remind me last night, that I really ought to have done a cold leak-down test first, so this will be the first job this evening.

Hoping that the knock sensors will arrive today, they can then go onto the bridges on either bank. I'll need to fashion a couple of holes in the air shroud to allow the flying lead to pass through, and for serviceability to replace the sensor, if I ever need to. Correct 964 Carrera grommets about to be ordered.

Exhaust system and turbo has been retrieved from my other garage across town, so that can go on later tonight as well, along with all the tinware.

I also just received another great little tool, something I've been meaning to order for a few years and never got around to doing it....a 1/4" drive torque wrench, intended primarily for pedal bike use when working with "Gucci" carbon fibre components.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1704.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1705.jpg

It's got a range of 2Nm to 24Nm, and really nicely made I have to say...and only £30!. Super impressed. The catalyst for me now buying it, was to be able to torque the rocker shaft bolts in the valve train. Of course, the bolts must be orientated with the head inwards; the No.1 and No.4 rockers can be accessed first with a long reach extension bar from the flywheel end, but the middle and other end have to be done by Using The Force (F-tight, plus a bit, using an Allen key)....I'm hoping, although not yet tried, that this new torque wrench will be small enough to do those middle bolts.

Back later with more updates....

Looks fantastic. Will you be mounting the turbo sump pump filter AFTER the pump this time? Also, the engine mounted oil filter; is there a way to fill the filter prior to mounting to minimize the fill time when cranking the engine over for the first time?

Thanks!

Hmm, no I'd intended mounting the inline filter the same as before, between the catch tank and the pump, but open to suggestions. Logically I can't see the reason for mounting it after the pump, other than to protect against pump failure?

Re the oil filter, this is where my memory is useless...can't remember what I did last time; the obvious answer is that I filled it before screwing it on (filter is vertical on the 964, so that's easy enough)....but I also vaguely recall that the filters may be valved, making that impossible? Or am I mis-remembering again?

I would suggest mounting the filter after the pump, since in most cases, the pump is more efficient in pushing oil through a filter than trying to draw the oil through it.

The engine mounted oil filter is valved. I finished a top end rebuild after a catastrophic turbo charger failure. Mounted C2 turbo oil filter console on my 930 and tried to pre-fill the filter before screwing it on and it didn't work. Took about an ounce of oil before it started flowing over the top. I suspect that a fitting that would over come the spring pressure would be required to allow filling the canister. Don't how to do that though. :(

Ok thanks Dave, I'll revisit the filter in which case.

Yup, the oiling issue is something I'm always conscious of, so I'm no stranger to using Redline assembly lube (albeit I don't drown the engine with it). I do know that you have to be a little cognoscente of it being pretty "sticky" and potentially can block filters; but I guess like anything, used correctly it'll be ok.

Just popped into the workshop to try the new torque wrench; it works a treat! So chuffed. Deal of the decade.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1707.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1706.jpg

Hi Spencer,

You are lucky to have the place to cross your key, I I had to use an extension lead to squeeze(tighten) everything in the couple. (18Nm) of memory. :)

Yup it was a very easy job in the end with this tool ;)

Hi Spencer, SmileWavy

To have good tools it is the ideal! :)

I'm rebuilding quicker than I can remember to update this thread!

Saturday morning started with a call from Porsche Tonbridge saying that, despite expectation to the contrary, my parts had arrived in stock, ready to collect. Excellent!....except that my car was still on summer tyres, and we've now started proper with our snow and icy roads. The journey from me to them involves lots of lanes, a stupid mistake waiting to happen. A quick scramble to switch them over, then belt it over to the OPC before their parts dept shut for the day.

I posted on Instagram, that I must be the only idiot that spent £36 for 4x lumps of rubber, plus half a tank of fuel and a 120mile round trip. In fairness I grabbed a couple of oil filters while I was over there....but I reckon they're probably some of the most expensive grommets you're likely to find with an £80 outlay!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1731.jpg

But...these are the parts used on the Carrera's to feed the knock sensors through the air shroud. A 2-piece affair, the simple stepped outer grommet sits in the plastic, the thicker split collar goes around the sensor wire, and pushes snuggly into the outer grommet. It is nice. £36 nice? Hmmm...I must be nuts.

Some marking out of the shroud with a dummy build was needed next. I was going to use the Carrera locations, but good job I didn't, they would've fouled the throttle linkage I'm using (specifically the eGas potentiometer). As it happens, this is pretty much a mirror image of how the Carrera models have them. Thankfully I was able to do this in-situ, as I happened to have the perfectly sized die punch from when I was making holes in the tinware a few years ago. A quick 10mm pilot hole and some gentle winding to ensure no plastic splitting. Bingo. Perfect job and virtually no mess.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...G_1737%202.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1738.jpg

The sensors themselves finally arrived midday yesterday. No more than a 2min job to install them. Access through the front of the shroud where the HVAC cooling pipework normally sits. Loctite and a couple of M8 set screws, job done. Refit the HVAC pipework to seal up the front of the shroud.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...G_1765%202.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1766.jpg

First job on Sunday was to re-torque the inward facing rocker arm bolts. Very easy job, a quick removal, clean, re-insert and tighten. So glad I bought that 1/4" drive torque wrench, surprising how many times I use it, now that its sitting on the work bench; it feels far less heavy-handed tightening M6 fasteners using it, rather than the next smallest (3/8" drive) torque wrench.

Next up, time to get the inlet manifold and the whole injector, sensor and God-knows-what-else assembly onto the engine. Clean off the old Curil-T from the phenolic plastic spacers and lo-and-behold, the biggest jump in appreciable progress - all in less than 20minutes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1758.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1759.jpg

Plumbing re-connected (as far as possible), then time to get the tinware shrouds onto the periphery, very simple clean-and-refit task.

A quick late-night job before wrapping up for the evening was to re-make the throttle body > manifold gasket. I made one years ago using silicon sheet but despite it being pretty thin, under torque it still bulged out from the edges including into the throat of the intake system; only marginally, but it looks rubbish. Time to make a new one from the gasket material I have. Another easy job nailed. The "cold" pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body could now be fitted, but again another niggly issue was fixed - this time the pipework was ridiculously tight to get onto the body, the o-ring just not compressing enough to allow it to slip over. It was hard enough (impossible) to do with the engine out of the car, nevermind having to do this in-situ. I remember fighting and swearing at this last time around, so a ripe candidate to resolve now. A rummage around the spare parts boxes revealed the perfect o-ring; with a little bit of a stretch it has opened it up enough to make a super plush slip-on of that cold pipe. Excellent, ripping through these jobs!

Dump valve is now back onto the underside of the cold pipe, and plumbed-in to the intake plenum.

Wiring loom was next up late last night.....and I like those super expensive knock sensor grommets SO much, I've decided to buy another pair to use for the loom to pass through the tinware to the underside of the engine (ignition coils)! I also need to order another new crank position sensor housing; the flashback happened this morning; while swapping out the inductive sensor we had to quickly source and use on the engine dyno 2yrs ago, we also had to modify the mounting bolt hole, it's not the same as the HE sensors that I use all over the car.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1768.jpg

It's starting to look very busy and congested on the top side of the engine, back to cutting fingers and knuckles whilst attaching the electronic bits, routing pipework and harnesses. But....things are moving along really well now. The exhaust system will go on this evening, with the turbo still attached, then some more big-boy plumbing. If I get on well, then potentially the wastegates can go back on as well.

I noticed that some of the clear heatshrink I used on the stainless boost lines (and oil lines) has split with the heat in the engine bay. I guess it was cheapy heatshrink to be fair. So....I need to make a trip over to Simon @ Sileck to get some more HE sensors terminated with Deutch connectors - I'll see if we can also re-sleeve these -4AN boost lines in proper Raychem DR-25 instead. Stealth black, with a far higher temperature rating.

Two jobs that are on the list are to make the turbo oil feed line an easier one to access. I think I'll look at re-using the stainless CDS pipework I was previously using to monitor exhaust backpressure (we're not doing this now), and fitting some male and female connections onto it, plus 3/4/5" of pipe to extend it through the top tinware. From there, the oil feed line from the back of the engine can mount onto it "top side".

I also need to get the intercooler mounted, and see what space I have available to mount the second anti-phase boost control valve. That'll also need a load more plumbing fittings. Hmmm. Maybe not-so-near after all!

Hi Spencer,

When I read your narrative and see your work I think of the word "perfection", your engine will be incredible! :)

Thanks mate! Appreciate it. Well...always aim for perfection, whether or not I get there, time will tell. As long as it drives nicely, I'll be happy. ;)

Exhaust system is back on.

At some point in the future, once the car is back on the road and I quit spending like a mad thing on this car, a new TurboKraft system will be on the shopping list. But, for now this is more than fine. It's now well modified with relocated wastegates and the divided input to the GT35R, so it's been a good "test mule" until now. It certainly made good numbers on dyno a few years ago, especially low down torque. So my only downer with the system is cosmetics. Functionally its really good; primary and secondary lengths are good, the diameters are also good for this level of build. There's a slip joint between each half and if I want them, there are 2x Lambda bosses either side of the turbo flange (but we'll probably continue to use the single Lambda on the turbo exit).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1821.jpg

Now, what I had noticed after I fitted the system back onto the engine, was that some of the head flange>primary welds were interfering with the copper crush nuts. This certainly wouldn't have helped the system to seal, and I did hear #3 leaking slightly on the first build (nobody else could hear it, but once you hear something you can't un-hear it....sure enough there was sooty evidence on strip-down). So, no point in not doing the job properly. System back off again, and time to get the die grinder out with a nice sharp edged cutter, to back-off those welds. Not the most elegant looking solution, but sod-all choice really. At least now the flanges are nicely "snugged" down.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1819.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1820.jpg


Wastegates are both now back on, albeit not in their final orientation until the engine is back in the car, HVAC pipework is back in and other plumbing connected.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1817.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1818.jpg

The engine half of the wiring harness is also now installed. Slightly different mounting positions than before. Finishing of this will be done once I get the final corner of the tinwork mounted. Can't do this with the engine on the stand, the basket impedes it ever-so-slightly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1803.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1804.jpg

Cold charge pipe and BOV is on...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1805.jpg

...and a gratuitous aerial shot....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1802.jpg

Hi Spencer,

Your engine is just magnificent, thank you for these beautiful photos! :)
The aluminum thermal protection is adjusted very well, would you have more detailed photos of his adjustment?

Pat

Thanks mate, I actually enjoy the photographing and documenting as much as the building.

Here you go, some photos of the aluminium heat shield...useful?

A quick jaunt over to New Romney to visit Simon and Alan at Sileck, primarily to get the hall effect sensors terminated for the crank and cam position pickups, but also to drop over the sub-harness for the boost and traction control (and boost gauge/shift light outputs). With the new ECU and reworked main loom, its just a little too short, so we're remaking it.

I also spoke with Simon about remaking my non-ECU engine loom, i.e., the charging circuit with other things like dashboard gauge connections (oil pressure, digital boost gauge), reverse switch on transmission, starter motor connections, etc. Way-back-when I made a whole new loom rather than butcher the original harness (now safely stored, as it wasn't brittle). It was fine, but nowhere near the standards of Simons wiring, and using chunkier cable than Simon typically uses. And not covered with Raychem sleeving; no big deal really apart from where it's having to conform around some tight bends, the heatshrink has rucked and stretched....yep, it's "OCD/OTT Time" again....I'm going to remove it this weekend and take it down to Simon over the Xmas break, and we'll remake it in a slimline, super flexible way.

Lastly, while I was there I bought 6m of 0.5" Raychem DR-25 heatshrink to replace the tatty and split clear heatshrink that I used to cover the boost controller hoses between the boost valve and the wastegates. I must've used some cheap shrink, as it's burst like a banana skin in places.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1859.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1860.jpg

An hour or so this evening spent removing and re-sleeving was well worthwhile. I reckon it looks 10x better now, and will be far more durable.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1858.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1857.jpg

Actually, I like it so much, I may well also do the remaining sensor lines and the vacuum line to the BOV.

Thank you very much Spencer, it is very useful, I shall make certainly this protection on my engine. :)

Just a very quick update this evening. Spent this morning undoing a lot of the good rebuilding work I've done! All anticipated, per the update the other day, I wanted to remove the charging loom and get a new one made. A good couple of hours disassembling the LH ducting, the cooling fan, the belt tension switch, the fan pulleys and so on, then obviously all the sensors that are on that loom (boost pressure, oil pressure, fan switch, oil temp) and all of the retention P-clips. Then the wrestle of partially removing the fan, removing the alternator cover and unbolting the loom. Getting the loom back through the shroud and out from the underside of the intake system was a bit of a git, just being super careful not to snag the main management loom or pull any vacuum lines off. But, it's now out and I think it's going to be a very worthwhile exercise; another case of using non-Raychem sleeving and it's already looking beaten up and tatty. The cable is way heavier duty than is needed, and adds significant bulk. All I need to do now is arrange a time to go across and make it.

I spent an hour or two playing with the throttle linkage as well this afternoon; I really don't know how I messed this up so monumentally, but after spending weeks designing and making the new linkage to accommodate the eThrottle potentiometer a couple of years ago, I somehow completely misaligned where the throttle cable enter through the tinware; by about 60mm to the left! Clearly had a brainstorm that evening, and only realised when I was hooking up the engine after reinstalling it. I "made do" at the time, and used another hole in the tinware to run the cable through, then if memory serves, I also had to take some slack out with a spacer between the inner and outer cables. Well, this time I'm getting it done right, but it does mean some reworking of that linkage....which is nicely anodized and plated.....oh well, needs must, I'll pretty-it-up again afterwards.

Oil return lines and filter between the turbo catch tank and the scavenge pump have now been thoroughly cleaned through in the tank; filter separated and rinsed, old scabby heatshrink on the lines removed and reassembled ready for install.

Turbo Oil Scavenge Line/Filter
Remembering back a few years to conversations that were had about filtering the oil line pre or post scavenge pump, and the suggestion a couple of weeks ago to move it post-pump; in retrospect, I'm going to keep it as-is. I remember buying a fairly coarse filter insert, so not to create too much load on that pump. Placing it pre-pump then protects the scavenge pump from any debris, should the bearing in the turbo have a catastrophic failure. There's also the fact that the 964 Turbo has it's oil filter located differently in the oil circuit to the 930 Turbo; the 964T protects the engine with oil entering it from the main tank and cooling circuit. If I'm correct, this isn't the case with 930's? (930 has the filter either mid circuit or on exit?...sure someone will correct me on that).

Anyway, that's about where I'm up to - no pics tonight, as there's nothing meaningful to show on the linkage just yet. Hope everyone had a very pleasant Christmas break?

I've just noticed....it's 6 years ago today that I sat on a sun-drenched balcony at my Parents second home in Madeira, beer in hand, scribing the update where the engine and 'box were removed from the car (right at the foot of Page 1).

Well bloody hell. "It's flown by"



(kidding)



So, I began musing - as you do over a holiday period - about the things which have changed in that time;

• I've got (even) less hair and now in my mid 40's
• I've changed the company I work for twice
• I now have a pretty decently equipped dedicated workshop (the original teardown was in my garage), purely to do this project
• Chris and I used to talk on a telephone....
• ...we now talk using FaceTime or WhatsApp - both of which were barely conceived technologies back then.
• Chris now has decent broadband comms! :p
• Chris has also moved premises since then
• My daughter was in her early years at enfant school, she's now in her early years at senior school, with junior school having been and gone (which is perhaps the scariest change of all to me)
• The Porsche aircooled market has gone crazy since buying mine
• Five different "other" cars have been/gone/stayed from the Spenny_b stable
• The price of UK fuel has actually gone down since then (by a decent amount to start with, but then gradually come back up)
• I've perhaps got even more obsessive with the build than I ever was, or intended being when I set out 6yrs ago!
• I'm still as irritable, but far more broke! :D

Deeply the continuation Spencer! :D

New engine "chassis" loom now made by Simon @ Sileck, and another grand job it is too. Made using Raychem Type 44 wire (as are the other harnesses) and wrapped in more Raychem DR-25 sleeving, plus "Claremont" green kevlar sleeving over the starter motor +VE cable. We've used a pukka Raychem "T" boot for the split outside of the shroud, the area that looked really quite scruffy on my version of the harness, where the glued heatshrink had given up.

The drawing board, literally...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1908.jpg

Cannibalising my original (new) harness...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1910.jpg

In progress, soldering onto the original Txx connector that interfaces chassis to engine...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1895.jpg

Finished article...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1907.jpg

What's left of my loom, made 5yrs ago. Connector plugs, grommets and covers carefully removed, as they're no longer available from Porsche

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1909.jpg

It needed a quick fettle today with the alternator feeds to ensure they don't come anywhere near the impeller at the back. This time I've made a stainless steel tab, mounted where the ground wire used to bolt on to (M5), which I've then used a cable tie to pull that part of the harness down and away. A lip on the s/s tab ensures the tie won't go anywhere. You can just about see what I'm on about....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1918.jpg

The ground cable now loops around the perimeter of the alternator, inside the conical cover of course, and attaches to the M6 bolt adjacent to where it used to mount, onto the ground tab of one of the controllers or rectifiers. Wrestling the loom back in under the intake plenum is equally as much fun as getting it out, and I'm currently rebuilding the fan onto the engine, the ducting, fan belts, etc. (teabreak)

Last night I knocked-up a couple of stand-offs to mount the second boost controller valve, which will sit on top of the first valve. Happy with how they've turned out - I was concerned that being M3, they wouldn't have the rigidity to stack the valve pairs, but it's absolutely fine and saves me having to drill/tap everything out to M4.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1915.jpg

Clearance to the intercooler looked ok last week when I eyeballed the idea. This second controller will be operating in "anti-phase" mode to the first controller, i.e., there will always be air supplied to either the top half of the wastegates, or the bottom half. Of course, this is always the case anyway, but you only normally get to control the minimum boost pressure by way of the lightest springs installed into the WG's; that then becomes your minimum boost pressure, be that 0.7bar (which it was with mine) or higher.

With phase + anti-phase control, in theory you could remove the WG springs altogether, and modulate the valves on either the top or bottom of the WG's to open/close the valves and bleed exhaust gas. In reality, you do still install very light springs, to prevent flutter and add a little control to them, but it does mean that we can then map right the way down to 0bar boost...if we wanted to. Apparently, this was done by Torque Developments for the current owners of the Ferrari 333SP LM prototype, which enabled them to absolutely blitz the competition in wet weather qualification; wind the boost right the way down and go for it, whereas the others had to pussy-foot around the track. Of course, mines not a track car, but it's something that's there which will allow all weather drivability (I'm thinking a skiing holiday to the Alps!...)

Only some very minor plumbing changes needed; basically a source boost feed to each valve input, one valve then controls the top port of the WG's, the other valve controls the lower port. However, I'm about four -4AN fittings short from being able to plumb it together, so will have to wait until Tuesday when Think Automotive are open again.

Finally, I spent an evening modifying my throttle linkage. Can you believe, a whole evening making ONE bracket?! This is for the receptacle bracket to mount to (the bracket that the throttle cable sits into).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1919.jpg

Ideally if I were to remake the whole linkage assembly, I'd be able to incorporate it by welding on a piece, but I'm not going to remake it, far too many hours spent doing it the first time. Some anodising of the bracket and it'll be great. Just waiting for some mild steel stock to arrive, then I can finish the rotating linkage where the ball joint will screw into.

Brilliant Spencer, I hope to be able to do it one day also on my engine! ;)

Happy New Year folks, thanks for following my little project all-these-years. I know I said it last year, and quite probably the year before that, but this really is the year that the car will get back on the road, and I can quit pestering your Inbox with update notifications. You do have thread update notifications set, don't you? ;)

Soooo....it's another wet and windy day here in the UK (same for most of the Christmas holiday period), therefore another fine opportunity to get out into the workshop and (in the words of YouTubes Dale Derry), "build something cool". Well....brackets...not that cool, but very useful.

First up was to rework the fuel pressure regulator assembly, only because it now fouls the repositioned throttle linkage entry. To explain, there was a loop of hose from the FPR exit (under the regulator) back to a rigidly mounted Male > Male M14 junction. This was a neat setup, removing any dangling hoses and giving you something rigid to tighten the chassis-side fuel return line onto. However, the positioning of it was just too close to the FPR if that loop of hose was to be removed; the FPR can't be moved, as it bolts directly onto the end of the fuel injection rail.

The plan, in which case, was to simply do-away with the M/M fitting. I could reuse it by simply cutting off the remainder of the bracket, but it's a little large and ungainly; I can do better.

Some lathe action yesterday with a fresh bar of ally hex stock, and we have a new M/M adapter with the 30º concave seat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1931.jpg

(I also made another M14 x 1.5 blanking plug for installing into the crankcase chimney. I know I made one years ago for this, but no idea where it's gone. Looks a lot smarter than bolting in an old temp sensor)

I did double-check the mating faces by screwing on one of the M14 fittings after some engineers blue (nah, blue Sharpy) had been applied to the concave faces. As you can see, once it was nipped up there looks to be good interference to seal those joints. Just needs to be anodised.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1929.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1928.jpg

Next job, hack off the old M14 fittings on the bracket....5mins, 1x hacksaw, 3x files and a cup of tea. This can now be added to my "plating" pile.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1944.jpg

There's now plenty of space around the throttle link mounting area; a lot cleaner.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1946.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1947.jpg

A job which has been bugging me for ages, was to re-mount the pressure sender used for my Stack boost gauge. I originally mounted it horizontally, but to avoid damage due to condensation it should be mounted vertically (or horizontally inverted). Some care taken to mark it out accurately and a reduction to M5 fittings so that I can tap those holes (M6=too coarse, not enough thread engagement), and it's another job off of the list.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1948.jpg

Just waiting for a set of stepped drills to arrive on Wednesday, then time to pretty it up a little before it can also go in the anodising box.

The next bracket is the turbo hanger. A change in gasket philosophy for the headers has meant that the exhaust system hangs 2-3mm lower than previously, which in turn has misaligned my hanging bracket to the crankcase. Some stainless spacers under each mounting mount easily corrects that little issue.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1949.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1951.jpg


Getting really close to everything being finished on the engine. I'm now waiting for some bright mild steel stock to arrive, so that I can finish the throttle linkage, then some welding to be done, hopefully on Saturday. I'll need to allow probably a week or two at the plating shop, in the meantime I can get on with making the plate for the new ECU & WiFi router which sits under the passenger seat, finish the harness installation and get the interior back together again. I'll also finish off some small jobs with the new ignition system, specifically mounting the CoP's.

"WiFi router?"

Is this beast going to have its own facebook page?

:D

Not quite, but yes, a travel wi-fi router is going to be used to broadcast (securely, of course) a local hotspot so that calibration work can be done without the need to fumble under the seat to either retrieve or plug-in an LAN cable. A Cat5e cable has been built into the chassis side of the harness, which will plug directly into the TP-Link unit. Not powered it up yet, but it's a very neat little thing, half the size of an iPhone X (2x the thickness) and only about $40 from memory.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1961.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1962.jpg

Ok, update time....

Not a huge amount of progress as I've been helping Lucy make some pieces for her DJI drone over the weekend.

But, a few more odds-n-sods jobs addressed.

The Aeroquip fire-sleeving is now on the wastegate hoses, the turbo oil drain hose and the drip tank return line to the scavenge pump. These lines were previously sleeved in the foil covered fibrous material, but frankly, it hasn't survived at all well even with the modest mileage that I did with the car before the teardown. The reflective coating has flaked off, and the fibrous material has started to crumble. Instead, I've now bought the orange NASA-looking stuff (!), and then sealed the ends with silicone tape. This was a tip given to me by Matt @ Think Automotive (great bloke, btw...and was in that episode of Wheeler Dealers where they're making a new hose for the Lamborghini Uraco), and I have to say, I'm really pleased with how it looks and how bloody good this tape is! I'm sure it's the same stuff they use for making silicone hoses, self amalgamating and non-sticky to the touch. It'll save the inner woven material from getting grubby, and apparently will withstand the temps.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...G_2010%202.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...G_2011%202.jpg

I needed to make an offset mount for one of the CoP units; the top intake side coil on #6 sits within the cutout for the ABS pump belt tower, and despite doing a mock build when reworking the coils, for some reason it now doesn't fit onto the stud I intended it locating onto. Not a difficult fix, I just milled a piece of 19mm ally hex bar with 1x 6mm thread underneath and an offset 6mm thread on the top. I didn't snap a pic before taking a batch of parts for plating, but will do so when it returns in a week or two.

My order of plumbing parts arrived from Think last week, with the NPT and -4AN fittings I need to re-work the hoses for the anti-phase boost control valve.

The throttle linkage has also now been reworked; the bracket I made a week or so ago, that was going to be bolted down with M4 fasteners, is now welded. I had second thoughts, insomuch that all other brackets on that assembly are welded, so for consistency.....

The rotating actuator that links the eGas potentiometer to the throttle cable from the cabin is also now rectified. My bar of 10mm bright mild steel finally arrived after the Christmas hiatus so that I could make the bar that now reaches over to the outboard side of the engine, rather than inboard. A gusset strengthens everything; I really don't want to be reworking this piece once the engine's installed.

The new dashboard and engine charging loom that Simon made is back in (did I mention that previously?)

Finally, the whole shopping list of parts that I need plating or anodising are now with my plating shop. I'm guessing that they're playing catchup after the Christmas shutdown, so really I'm in the lap of the plating Gods as to how long this will take - anticipating a fortnight.

In the meantime, I'm going to get the ECU loom installed into the cabin, but upon typing up the words for the previous Syvecs and TP-Link pics, I had a moment of realisation....I forgot to ask Simon to include a switched 5v supply for the wi-fi router....doh. Never mind, better to realise now; I'll zip along there for another quick rework and to collect the old auxiliary peripheral loom (to boost setting switch, traction control and boost gauge) which needs remaking slightly longer for the new ECU. It'll certainly be a lot neater to run the 5v from the ECU loom than feeding a switched 12v from the dashboard, then stepping it down to USB 5v using another interface harness.

Back soon...hopefully with lots of shiny stuff to show (and bolt on)

What's with the "United States" bumper sticker....like the rest of the world didn't bloody know already! lol

Anyway, I see your LM and I raise you this....http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/silly.gif

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2063.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2064.jpg

;)

Time for a quick update...well, apart from a lot of brain work, there's not been too much activity on the engine itself for the last fortnight. What I have done is seriously pull my finger out and clearing the decks of a tonne of old Westfield parts, a few Porsche parts including the old ECU. Lots of stuff sold, lots of space reclaimed, and a few sheckles back in the piggy bank.

In terms of this project, it's holding formation until the plating shop finishes their work. They've now finished the black anodizing, which I've collected (apart from one piece, that annoyingly they forgot to put in the box, but assured me it was all there....thankfully it's been found)

So in absence of spannering, what I have been doing is putting some thought into re-starting the project of water cooling the turbo. Turbobrat930 has been building and playing with an excellent installation on his 930 here in the Turbo/Supercharging Forum. Bravo to him, great job. He does say, however, that the filler neck integrated into the top tank of his radiator, isn't perhaps ideal for regular checking and topping-up, as it's mounted behind his wheelarch liner on the RHS of the car.

A visit to Think Automotive, and 3hrs of Tino and myself scratching our heads and walking their stores, has resulted in (what I hope is) a great little setup that takes Turbobrats great work and customises it to my requirements and needs.

(BTW - for any UK based folk, Think Auto have now moved into a really nice new premises. Hats off to Matt and the team, I understand it's been a monumental effort for the last 3 months, and they're still moving stock over from the old shop, but it's a lot more conducive to sitting down and planning a plan. Thoroughly recommend going across and visiting them - apart from anything else, the parking's a whole lot better!)

These are some pics I took to try and illustrate my thinking....vernier calliper box representing the size matrix I originally planned to use....an Uncle Bens lunch pot representing the water pump :D

Whether I mount the matrix parallel to the ground, or parallel to the valve cover, I don;t yet know...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2109.jpg

Depending on the matrix mounting, I may weld on some tabs onto the supporting frameworl, to mount the pump...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2110.jpg

This is the kit of parts as it now stands, and with as much forward thinking as we could do. Of course, things may change once I get underway with fabricating the frame that will hold the cooler matrix in place...we'll see.....I just wish I had a decent welding rig so I could crack on and start tacking pieces of the framework into place.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2161.jpg

Bosch pump....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2162.jpg

Cooler rad with really neat internally threaded mounting lugs...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2164.jpg

4" Spal Cooling fan, which will mount underneath the rad, pulling air through...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2165.jpg

I did originally think about using a BMW Mini R53 generation turbo cooling pump; only £35 from a main dealer, tiny and comes with a bracket that looks to have many options for mounting it....however, electrically I'm not entirely sure how this is driven. I know that E90 gen BMW's use CAN bus controlled pumps. However CAN bus as implemented in noisy/critical environments uses 2x signal pins, CAN-Hi, CAN-Lo and its the crossover of these (Hi being pulled low, Lo being pulled high) that is the trigger point, either on or off. There is such thing as single signal CAN, but from what I understand, it's used is less critical and noisy environments, for things like cabin heater control, infotainment systems, etc. This Mini pump has 3 pins, not 4; from the wiring diagrams we have, one is +12v. Another *must* be Gnd, leaving one...unlikely to be CAN bus, probably PWM control, but....there's a lot to be said for keeping it simple(r) and using a relay to control a basic 12v pump. Which is what I decided, and have got a Bosch unit instead. In for a penny...


Interestingly, by stumbling upon Garretts whitepaper on water cooling for their water-cooled turbo's, I found out something I wasn't aware of; I did already know about syphoning effects of the cooling system, but apparently by rotating the CHRA by 20º, they report up to a 50ºC temperature drop. They even go so far as saying that on traditional water cooling systems on cars (i.e. with a mechanically driven water pump), it's most likely that an auxiliary electric water pump is unlikely to be required, to continue water flow through the CHRA after engine shutdown. Of course, we don't have that luxury, but it does show the potential of getting the plumbing right and using syphoning to your advantage.

Anyone know what torque to tighten both the compressor and turbine housings up to? Clearly one will be more than the other. I have emailed Garrett, but typical corporate-black-hole so far.

Good night Spencer, I began to worry not seeing update of your project! :)
The work of brain is I think more important that the manual labor in itself, both go of pair anyway.

Very good idea that to cool your turbo in the water, will also need to find the good location, continues like that, bravo!

That's impressive! Thanks for sharing.

Everyone always thinks the Americans were the first to put a man on the moon. But no lads, they were the first to put a man on the moon and bring him back. But Morgan, he never came back.

Got a postcard though. Said "'tis cheese!", in in parenthesis "Caerphilly".

Lots of small jobs done.....

All the plating work is now back with me, which has enabled me to get all those odd'n'sods pieces back onto the engine again:

• The boost pressure sender for the dashboard boost gauge is now mounted on the IC bracket.
• The 4x turbo flange bolts now have stainless locking nuts (aircraft nuts, not nyloc of course), versus the previous plain nuts + spring washers.
• The fuel pressure regulator is now secured again to the modified bracket, onto the inlet manifold.
  
  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2172.jpg
  
• The throttle linkage assembly is now back together....with the cable support now in the correct place (!). It fits perfectly under the plenum chamber of the 1-2-3 intake system, clearing by a handful of mm. A stover nut on the pivot shaft has now replaced the nyloc; I was conscious that with the heat of the engine bay, the correct tightness of this nut would change, causing a loose linkage in a completely inaccessible place.
• I removed the 3x M8 studs that are used to hold the linkage onto the crankcase - with the eGas throttle pot bolted in place on the linkage, it was extremely diffcult to mount it with the intake system also bolted down. So, instead I've removed the studs and chased the M8 thread with a tap to open them up and allow M8 capheads to be used from the "top side". Looks neater than nyloc nuts as well.
  
  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2175.jpg
  
• The M-M fuel adapter I made is now fixed onto the engine end of the fuel inlet hose.
• The M14 bung has now substituted the temp sender in the crankcase chimney.

Another delivery arrived this morning from Think Automotive with a few more fittings. I've decided to plumb in a 1/4" system return hose, going from the furthest point on the system from where the header tank feeds, back into the top of the header tank.

I've now also assembled a new -4AN oil feed line to the turbo. The previous line had a zinc plated 90º -4 fitting that mounts onto the flow restrictor on the CHRA, and although perfectly functional, had started to corrode with the heat from the turbine housing. The clear PVC coating had also started to go brown with the heat. So....I had a left over length of hose from the previous aborted water system project; a length intended to run to one of the wastegates. Now cut to length, covered in Raychem DR25 along with some fire sleeve and now terminated in a forged 90º aluminium -4 fitting. Forged fittings don't flow as well as swept fittings, but this is a restricted oil feed anyway, so shouldn't cause an issue here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...G_2167%202.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...G_2168%202.jpg

Hose not tightened onto the turbo deliberately, as my new turbine heat shield is now in the country, import duties paid and should be delivered to me on Monday....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_2170.jpg

So, lots of odd jobs now done, included a very Cathartic clean-up mission in the workshop...tomorrows job is now to crack on with the water cooling system; I've had a few cunning ideas during the last few days, about how to mount everything, so fingers crossed another productive day tomorrow whilst watching the Daytona 24hrs on IMSA.tv.

Hi Spencer, It is always a great pleasure to follow your work of silversmith, continues like that! ;)

Spenny, from certain angles that pink silicone hose cladding looks like a frankfurter, albeit a space-grade frankfurter. John

It's exactly frankfurter coloured! Not so tasty though....

Cheers buddy!